My 78 F-150 4x4 (full-time) needs new rotors. Autozone sells separate hubs and rotors for my truck. The Haynes manual mentions an integral hub and rotor, and a separate hub and rotor.

It seems to me that to make brake work easier in the future, it would be better to have a separate rotor and hub. The rotor costs about 25 bucks,the hub 50. If the rotor needs changed again, its an easier, cheaper fix to only have to buy the rotor vice an integral unit.

The question is, how can I tell which one I have? I could already have a separate unit but I think its a sure bet that its rusted together to the point separating it will be pointless. Am I right in assuming it would be easier/cheaper working on the separate unit than an integral unit?

Also, in changing the hub, the procedure isn't too clear about how tight to turn that special 4x4 "locknut" inside the hub against the wheel bearing. Is there a specific torque to use or do you just, I don't know, use the "force?"
Seriously, anyone got any good tips for that?

 

I believe that an integral hub and rotor refers to haw you can buy them at the parts store. You can get them together or buy them separately. They can be taken apart either way, by driving the studs out of the back of the hub.

As for adjusting the wheel bearings, I usually tighten the inner nut as tight as I can, then spin the hub to seat the bearings. Then back it off, and tighten it until it just starts to feel snug. As long as the hub turns freely and there is no looseness felt, it should be ok. I tighten the outer locknut as tight as I can with a 1/2" ratchet (about 12" long)

 

I use a Haynes manual for my '77 F150 with locking hubs. The torques are listed at the beginning of the chapter, not in the text its self. For my hubs the nut is initally torqued to 50 ft-lbs to seat the bearings and then backed off until there is no bearing drag. After installing the locking plate the second nut is torqued to ~70 ft-lbs. Once again these torques are listed in the tables on the first couple of pages of the chapter.

 

Thanks for the info on the rotor/hub and bearings. An oversight on my part on the Haynes manual. You were correct, sir.

One more thing, though. I ended up buying a new hub/rotor tonight as well as wheel bearings, seal, and grease. Guy at the shop (after asking if my truck was for sale) advised me that the wheel bearings should be repacked every 6 months.
Is this true? If so, is this unique to 4x4 trucks as I've never heard this before. I usually just check for play whenever I have the front end in the air and repack/adjust them if necessary (vehicles in general, not my truck)

 

OE usually recommends about every 30K miles. I usually do mine about once a year in my Bronco. But I drive in a lot of mud and water. I try to do my 77 once a year, but its been over 2 now that I think about it. It's pretty neglected, but it runs so good, I never notice.