#30 fuse keeps blowing!!
#16
Here's the part you would need if you were to replace it. Like Chris though, you'll be fine without it. Click here. Replacement O-rings for Ford Diesel Engines
#20
I love this site. Still having problems though. After changing out the glow plugs, glow plug relay and the cam position sensor and unplugging the fuel bowl heater I can drive it for like 75-100 miles with no problems. then all the sudded she will kick like a mule and the check engine light comes on. And a couple times sitting at a light the truck would just die but starts back up with no problems. After shutting the truck off the check engine light will reset so I cant plug the diagnostics in to find out what is wrong with the truck.
But I can drive it another 100 miles with no kick and no dying. This problem has got me confused....anyone out there have any suggestions?
Thanks
KB
But I can drive it another 100 miles with no kick and no dying. This problem has got me confused....anyone out there have any suggestions?
Thanks
KB
#21
Where did you get the cam position sensor? Just because the light goes out doesn't mean the code is cleared. There's still a stored code there, but you can't read it with the free scans from the parts stores or any of the cheap code readers.
Are you blowing any fuses with the way the truck is acting now? Do any other dash lights flash when the truck cuts out? Are you using your windshield wipers when the truck cuts out? Check the big wiring harness that goes over the driver side valve cover. If you look, it's the harness with a square box that has a bolt in the middle of it. Check the wires below the square box to see if they have been rubbing against the valve cover. Check the wires behind the square box to see if they've been rubbing against the bracket that holds the box. Check the wiring harness that goes over the top of the drivers front shock, wiggle the ignition and play with the tile steering (engine at idle in park or nuetral). Chaffed wires in any of these locations can cause the symptoms you're describing.
Are you blowing any fuses with the way the truck is acting now? Do any other dash lights flash when the truck cuts out? Are you using your windshield wipers when the truck cuts out? Check the big wiring harness that goes over the driver side valve cover. If you look, it's the harness with a square box that has a bolt in the middle of it. Check the wires below the square box to see if they have been rubbing against the valve cover. Check the wires behind the square box to see if they've been rubbing against the bracket that holds the box. Check the wiring harness that goes over the top of the drivers front shock, wiggle the ignition and play with the tile steering (engine at idle in park or nuetral). Chaffed wires in any of these locations can cause the symptoms you're describing.
#22
Have you checked that main harness connector on top of the drivers side valve cover? Make sure the wires aren't chaffed, make sure the bolt that holds the two hafves together is tight. Andwhile your at it loosen the bolt & take theconnector apart make sure the connections are clean coat it alittle die electic grease & bolt it back together. As far as your ses light not on ,if it came on before, there should be a stored code that only certain code readers will read for our trucks.Auto Engineuity is one of them.
#24
I have a 2002 f-250 7.3 I have the same problem. I unpluged the fuel filter heater replaced the #22 fuse and it fired right up. Problem #2-- After running the truck for 3 days no problem tried to start the truck next morning it started then the #22 fuse blew again. I replaced the fuse moved the heater plug around and tried rolling it over,turn key off tried again and fuse blows. I don't have a diagram either what else can i check!
#30
There are two pins...
Hi there!
Thanks everyone for the inputs!! Since I have (or maybe should I say had) the same problem, I found the connector on the back side of the diesel filter cup and unplugged it. After that it seems as if the problem with fuse 30 blowing disappeared. The question I have is that there are two cables going to the same harness: The red/lt green one for the heater and then a wht/red one. Question is what is that one for? Can I just leave the connector unplugged or do I actually need to cut the red/light green cable and put the connector back?
Regards from Sweden.
Thanks everyone for the inputs!! Since I have (or maybe should I say had) the same problem, I found the connector on the back side of the diesel filter cup and unplugged it. After that it seems as if the problem with fuse 30 blowing disappeared. The question I have is that there are two cables going to the same harness: The red/lt green one for the heater and then a wht/red one. Question is what is that one for? Can I just leave the connector unplugged or do I actually need to cut the red/light green cable and put the connector back?
Regards from Sweden.