I just bought a 93 F-350 dually that has the 7.3 turbo though I don't believe it is a powerstroke because everything I have read states the powerstroke came in 94. Mine has a 5 speed and everything seems to be working properly but it just doesn't have the power I think it should have on a hill. I was hauling 3 toyota truck beds which probably weighed 1000lbs total and hit an approximate 7% to 8% that was about 3/4 mile long at 65 mph, I had to drop a gear and topped it at 52 mph. I'm thinking it should have maintained 65 on such a short grade with minimal weight. Had I been pulling my 28' camper I'm afraid I wouldn't have the gear for the grade. lol. Is there anyway to boost the power on these engines? I understand that if it is not a powerstroke there is no chip available. Is that correct? Also it may just be me being I'm not used to the truck but it seems like the boost isn't up where it should be at higher rpm's. up to 2000 rpm's you can hear the turbo but after you pass 2500 it seems like it is less. I bought it for a tow rig and would like to get as much power as possible without doing damage to the engine in the long run. any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks.

 

The first step is a pyrometer and boost gauge to find out what you have now.

The stock down pipe Ford used and the muffler are two great upgrades.

ATS has a turbo outlet flange and 3" downpipe that let the turbo breathe, and then a 3" minimum exhaust with no muffler or a high flow muffler will help the turbo spool.

After that we can start looking at the fuel supply.

 

I should have mentioned but forgot to, the exhaust is a straight pipe, no muffler or converter.

How would you go about hooking up a pyro or boost gauge? I used to drive OTR and all trucks had the boost gauge which I liked to watch to make sure I was getting what I ordered on a hill, some had the pyro as well.

 

it isnt really the exhaust, it is the down pipe. Taken out it looks like a murdered section of exhaust pipe. Rumors were that they didnt want to put out a turbo engine that was as strong as the power stroke since it was due to release shortly there after. It looks terrible and purposely damaged. check out this pic. The one on the right is factory. Can you believe it?

 

I'm pretty sure your turbo will have a place for the pyro stinger if not you drill and tap the manifold.
on the boost guage you just have to plumb in some spaghetti line from a port on the air
intake to a guage.

 

I've thought about the upgraded down pipe until I look back there. Is that a big of a job as it looks?

 

Wow! I can't believe exhaust even gets thru that thing. I agree with the poster above its very tight in there and I tend to twist of manifold bolts. lol. I can definitely see the need to replace that though for sure.

 

If you dont want to shell out the 400 of 500 dollars for the ats upgrade then do what I did. Take the old downpipe off and take it to an exhaust shop. Tell them to take a 2.5 inch pipe and make all the same bends and flange it out just like the stock one. I did this and it took them like 15 minutes and only cost $28. Noticed much better spooling and responce. And even with the stock turbo outlet I can still open the wastegate at 9 psi no problem. Since you have a 7.3 you could go even higher.

 

Funny thing, they used that same downpipe on the Stroke motors till 97.

Wonder why they only made 225 HP?


With the ATS turbo outlet and downpipe you can get over 250 HP rather easy.

With a fuel system that is right on and a little work on the intake path, 275 is not out of the question.

Pyrometer best location is the exhaust manifold.
You want to protect the pistons, so as close as possible is best.

You should have a plug in the intake hat that you can screw out to install the boost gauge tube in.



Black tube boost
White tube oil pressure

 

My buddy has a 95 Powerstroke and his down pipe looks just like mine, we were both scratching our heads trying to figure out what rocket scientist came up with that set up. He had no idea how restricted it was until I told him what you guys said on here. He does mechanic work for a living but mostly on gas burners so we are both learning as we go here. We have decided to cut that section out and make it like Caleb suggested.

Thanks Dave for the pic, boost looks easy but I will have to drill for Pyro correct? Another thing, the waste gate isn't attached to that plunger set up in the top left corner of the pic is it? My buddy says it is but that linkage runs to the flapper on the exhaust side of the unit leading me to think thats something else entirely. I'm thinking the waste gate would need to be on the intake side or internally.

You guys are great by the way and I appreciate the help.

 

Yes thats the wastegate linkage. It senses the pressurized side of the intake and opens the flapper on the exhaust side. When the flapper opens, part of the exhaust bypasses the turbo to reduce the pressure thats generated.

 

Hijacking this thread a little to ask...Dave, what kind of fitting is that you have on the top of your turbo for the oil feed? Most turbos on these trucks I see have the Oil pressure sender in line with the oil feed. Yours seems to be at the end of it. Is that an ATS only kinda thing or is that some of your mechanical ingenuity?

 

That was an ATS thing.

Actually that part was cast and it cracked.

I have another on made, but right now I just have it in a tee with a nipple threaded into the top of the turbo.


Wastegate



The wastegate when it opens lets exhaust out of the turbo into the turbo outlet flange without going through the turbo.

The actuator has a spring in it.
When boost pressure in the intake starts to over power the spring in the actuator, the waste gate starts to open.

 

so your guys downpipe is the same part number as a 94.5 to 97 powerstroke? interesting, that makes it easy to get aftermarket exhaust

 

Joe No the down pipe is different than the early strokes, but the stroke tail pipe can be used. Both the factory down pipes were flattened. The pic that Dave is showing is the factory elbow, and the down pipe is held on with a v clamp.