a few months ago I bought an 03 ranger 2.3 L 4cyl 5 speed. its the xl base model. It just turned over 70k.

I was driving yesterday and out of no where it lost all power and then stalled. I was driving about 15 mph. It would not start up again.

plugs are new. and thats all i know for sure. I just got it.

the only other problem it had before was that it would be hard to start when warm. i would have to crank it a little longer and the idle would drop for a few seconds as soon as it fired up. it always fires right up in the morning when its cold.

there is a cel but I have not checked it yet. I cant say I know how.

I am thinking ignition coil (hopefully). but i really don't know.

any ideas would be greatly appreciated

Thanks

 

Do yourself a favor and buy an ODB II scanner.
I bought one a while back for my 2000 and it payed for itself after the first CEL came on. Not that my truck has had many CEL issues.

I doubt it's the coil or anything else expensive/difficult to work on.
Get the ODB II scanner and keep it in the glove box - make your life so much simpler. Don't even need an expensive one - just one that will read the codes.

 

Check the fuel pump shutoff and see if it is tripped. It's located above passenger side kick panel. Could also be fuel pump relay (located in the black fuse/relay panel under hood ). Did you try a shot of starting fluid to see if it would fire up and then stall which would rule out ignition and verify a fuel delivery issue.? Could also try cleaning the MAP sensor with electrical contact cleaner (located in air intake tube by air cleaner). If you get it running you can go to Autozone Or Advance to have them scan for check engine light codes at no charge to you. Also how long has it been since fuel filter was replaced?

 

I checked the switch. seems fine

I can hear the pump prime when I turn the key

I know the not starting now and the hard starts from before are related somehow.

 

Welcome to FTE.

You may have more than one problem.

I like all of the ideas so far & agree that getting the computer trouble codes pulled would likely provide good trouble shooting clues.

If you don't have a scantool, or code reader, or can't come by one to pull the codes at the in cabin diagnostic port below the steering wheel, then you'll need to do three more tests to kinda get an idea whats going on.

Hearing the fuel pump prime when you go to KOEO before cranking the engine, says it's getting B+ voltage to it, but we don't know what the fuel pressure to the fuel rail is, so you might do a fuel pressure check & post the numbers.

If it's low, you could have ice in the fuel line, filter, or tank, a debris clogged fuel filter, a weak pump, low voltage to the pump, or maybe a debris clogged, or iced up fuel pump sock in the tank.

You can safely check for spark & timing with an inductive type timing light.

Hook up a vacuum gauge, crank the engine & post the vacuum reading. If you don't have vacuum, there is likely a problem with the timing belt.

All of these test items can be had from most autoparts stores "Loan-A-Tool" program, for a refundable deposit.

These tests would answer the three questions you need to know, to make an engine run!!!!

Do you have spark, fuel pressure at the fuel rail & if you have vacuum, you have compression, so the timing belt isn't broken, or hasn't slipped & messed with valve timing.

More thoughts for consideration,
let us know what you find.

 

okay. update

I got it started

I noticed the wire harness to the fuel pump inerita switch was loose. Plugged it in and fired right up.

but now its missing bad. no power

I had a buddy come over with a diagnostic computer

He pulled the code p2004 imrc stuck open b1

I read a little on here and someone said that there is a solenoid under the intake manifold and above the starter that has a vacumn line that cracks

sure enough, it was cracked.

I replaced it. check engine light is gone

but still runs like total crap

tried a new ignition coil. nothing

next im gonna clean the maf, iac, and do fuel filter i guess

any ideas?

 

With a vacuum leak, the fuel trim tables are likely corrupt & now that it's fixed, if you didn't pull the battery B- cable to clear the codes & wipe the computers memory, so it can begin to rebuild new fuel trim tables & relearn new cold & warm idle strategy, it won't know you've fixed the vacuum leak & is trying to run the engine with the old corrupt fuel trim tabes & cold & warm idle values that it learned with the vacuum leak present.

While clearing the codes & wiping the computers memory may help, it might not totally fix things, if you had more than one problem.

So begin with pulling the battery B- cable for 20 minutes or so & go through the cold & warm idle relearn proceedure & let us know how it goes.

 

On the map sensor there are two filaments facing opposite directions. I found it easier to remove it from the housing( slot the two torx head screws if don't have the special torx bit and use flat blade screwdriver). Clean filaments with a shot of electric contact cleaner. The gas filter has the plastic horseshoe clips. Use a flat blade screwdriver to press in on the flat top part of clip while pushing fitting toward filter and then pull off. Start truck and trip fuel shutoff and run truck till stalls or pull fuel pump relay to avoid a fuel bath underneath. Might want to consider replacing spark plugs if they are originals.

 

If your Ranger died while driving, will not stay on after crank/roll-over, engine stalls, etc? And you have already: cleaned the MAS, replace the fuel pump, filter. Still no fuel pressure?

Check the fuses under the hood, maybe you did this first, but you are sniffing it out. The Fuel Pump Relay could be the issue and you have to direct/bypass. Google/Youtube: Bypass Bad Fuel Pump Relay

I cannot take credit, I had help from guys in West Texas. They used an electric wire, and ran it from the relay into where the wires plug into more wires (connector below the panel box), and spliced a line I assume going to the fuel pump, or from the battery? I believe my fuel pump now runs all the time, so I am going to check it out more before considering myself done but hopefully this helps you get it running to the next spot.