Bad door lock actuator... or something else?
#1
Bad door lock actuator... or something else?
Hey guys. My 04 E350 power doors locks are seemingly a bit tired, especially the two front doors. When the van is cranked, they lock and unlock fine, but if it's turned off, I have to hit the button like 5 times to get them to lock or unlock. Do you think this is caused by an actuator wearing out, or could it be something else? Oh, and the van has 250,000 miles on it, and those are the original actuators.
#6
Checking battery voltage as it sits in the van is a wise suggestion.
You mention specifically the front locks----are the rear doors affected the same? Or are you unable to listen/watch them work?
If the PDL actuators "drag" and make kinda squeal as they operate that does suggest low voltage---not enough juice to have them quickly engage as designed.
Because the front only are affected this could also be an issue with the actual switch in the drivers door OR the wiring from that connection block.
Before we delve too deeply into what it could be check your battery resting voltage.
You mention specifically the front locks----are the rear doors affected the same? Or are you unable to listen/watch them work?
If the PDL actuators "drag" and make kinda squeal as they operate that does suggest low voltage---not enough juice to have them quickly engage as designed.
Because the front only are affected this could also be an issue with the actual switch in the drivers door OR the wiring from that connection block.
Before we delve too deeply into what it could be check your battery resting voltage.
#7
Hey guys. My 04 E350 power doors locks are seemingly a bit tired, especially the two front doors. When the van is cranked, they lock and unlock fine, but if it's turned off, I have to hit the button like 5 times to get them to lock or unlock. Do you think this is caused by an actuator wearing out, or could it be something else? Oh, and the van has 250,000 miles on it, and those are the original actuators.
jim
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#10
Might be a good time to recommend or suggest lubing the actual door latches is a superb idea too. Its easily enough accomplished outside the door shell---use a spray lube that'll cling to the catches etc seen through the latch opening.
If there's an occasion to be inside the door shell use the same spray lube on the inner portions of the latch---this might require a combination of acrobatics, good lighting, good aim and perhaps a small inspection mirror or borescope.
Liquid-Wrench is a good choice here because its penetrating properties lets it work its way inside the latch mechanism. As it also has a white lithium compound that stays behind we accomplish two things at once.
Liquid-Wrench is also good shot into the key lock cylinders---helps lube them and keep water from freezing them closed.
If there's an occasion to be inside the door shell use the same spray lube on the inner portions of the latch---this might require a combination of acrobatics, good lighting, good aim and perhaps a small inspection mirror or borescope.
Liquid-Wrench is a good choice here because its penetrating properties lets it work its way inside the latch mechanism. As it also has a white lithium compound that stays behind we accomplish two things at once.
Liquid-Wrench is also good shot into the key lock cylinders---helps lube them and keep water from freezing them closed.
#12
My driver door lock rubs slightly on the door panel. It is accentuated in the extreme cold. When it dives below freezing, I have to hit the unlock button three or four times until it pops up enough to unlock the door. Not a bother to me, but maybe you just have some rubbing issues rather than weak actuators.
#13
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