Hello, I have a 1955 f100 that I am installing the running gear out of a 1986 lincoln lsc what do I need to change motor to carb, also what computer to hook 4 speed aod Thanks for your HELP Mike

 

you need an intake manifold, carb of course, distributor, and linkage for the AOD, both the throttle valve (TV) cable and kickdown cable.

you MAY have to change the cam to be more carb friendly.

Sam

 

The most important thing to know is when changing the distributor to an earlier type, you must make sure it has a steel gear compatible with the roller cam, or change it to one. Using the old iron gear will fill your crankcase with metal shavings in short order.

Depending on the transmission, you may not need a computer for it.

 

I bought a 86 Lincoln 5.0 HO motor and AOD to use in my (now green) truck.. in 2002

my son and daughter talked me into putting it into an 87 mustang (replacing the 4 cyl) instead, but I used the rear end.

Sam

 

You'll need a distributor with advance weights, springs, and a vacuum advance to control your timing.



If you decide to get a new distributor, consider our custom curved Duraspark Distributor built with our new Full Length Oil Impregnated Bronze Bushing. The full length bushing improves timing stability and spark scatter. If stock appearance is not an issue, take a look at our one piece D.U.I. Distributor. Whether you choose the Duraspark or the D.U.I., we curve each on a distributor machine based on your engine combination. Please see them at:

http://performancedistributors.com/forddistributors.htm

Also, there is now an excellent installation article on the D.U.I. Distributor on the Ford-Trucks.com site at:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/0/358/article/DUI_Ignition_Installation_In_A_Ford_351W_V8.html

Ignition Lesson of the Month: Hystereses, the difference between the timing as the rpm and vacuum increases to the timing as rpm and vacuum decrease, needs to be kept to a minimum. A precise advance curve accomplishes this.

 

You will also need to change the timing cover and install a cam eccentric for the fuel pump unless you use electric pump. If it has the double hump pan it might cause you a issue.

 

Mike,

In addition to the other great information that you've already been given, here's a couple other tidbits. For your distributor, the most popular way to swap out the TFI unit used with the fuel injection is to get a distributor for a 1985 Ford Mustang with a 5.0L. This is the only non-EFI application that has a steel gear compatible with your roller camshaft. They aren't too terribly expensive to pick up as a reman from any local parts store. They are intended for use with Ford's Duraspark II electronic ignition modules which are fairly easy to hook up. You can also use them with just about any aftermarket ignition system as well.

No computer needed for your '86 model AOD. It's all hydraulically controlled. Just make SURE that you've got the throttle valve cable hooked up and PROPERLY adjusted before you drive it. That valve regulates the line pressure throughout the transmission based on throttle position. If it's not hooked up or not set right, you can lunch the transmission in just a couple miles. The hot ticket there is to use the cable Lokar makes specifically for use with a carb. Do a Google search for "AOD throttle valve" and you'll find a ridiculous amount of information on how to set it up. As for that big, intimidating plug stuck in the left side of the transmission, that would be the wiring for your neutral safety switch and backup light switch. There should be four wires. Red/blue stripe goes to the starter solenoid trigger terminal, white/pink stripe is power in from the "start" position of your ignition switch, purple/orange stripe is fused power in for the backup lights, and black/pink stripe is the feed out to the backup lights. Good luck!

 

thanks for replies, I still need more specific info on particular parts but we are getting there( keep your cards and letters coming) you old timers will get that, blue oval how did you know that Big old Plug scared the Hell out of me ??

 

I am doing the setup described now. In November I bought the turck and have a 89 302 HO motor and AOD in the garage for it. I did not want the EFI look so I decided to buy the parts to convert it. I have purchased an Edelbrock RPM air gap intake and a GM style HEI distributer. The Advantage to the GM style HEI is a one wire hookup (yes they make them specifically for the a 302 or 351). I will be using a 600 CFM Edelbrock carb to match with the RPM air gap intake. The 89 block does not have the provisions in the casting to mount a fuel pump so I will use an inline electric pump with a shutoff switch. I am still researching weather I HAVE to change the oil pan from the double plug style. I have bought a new steering column with column shift so I can use a LOKAR sytle connection to from the column to the AOD (I will fab this not buy LOKAR's). The AOD kickdown to mount to interface with the Edelbrock intake is available from LOKAR and is a required part to use the AOD. I have a 9" passenger car rear with 3:30 ratio so mileage and performance should be fine. I am waiting till my tax check to purchase No-Limit rack setup.

I will start in the spring assebling the parts but post how the progress is going.

 

you don't HAVE to change the oil pan, unless the install location requires it (cross member, exhaust, ...)

Sam

 

Having lived with carbureted cars for half my life, and EFI cars for the rest, I can't believe anyone would toss an EFI system to go back to carburetors. Instead of changing all that stuff on the engine, why not mod the fuel tank and fuel system (pump etc) and retain the vastly improved driveability and economy of the EFI system? The wiring isn't that complex for EFI, most of it is taken care of at the end of the harness.

As far as looks, a 5.0/302 of any kind in a '55 isn't going to look "period correct" no matter what. It may be easier to get parts for than the correct Y-block, but no one is going to mistake it for an original engine.

Add up the costs, I think you'll find the EFI is cheaper and better than going carb'd.

 

I did this swap. Regarding the 1985 Ford Duraspark. You need a dist out of a 5 speed Mustang. They had roller cams but the auto Mustangs did not. Very important.....Rod

 

Digging up old stuff but good info for me and possibly someone else some day.

Everyone has there opinion and if they want carbed that is cool with me. I, am going with what ALBUQ F1 though and staying EFI. Do I know how to do it? No Will I take the time and effort to make it work? Yes.

I have the 5.0HO in my garage and recently found this link for a harness that is matched to 5.0's and is designed to be plug and play as much as possible.

Painless Performance: Ford 1986 - 1995 5.0L Fuel Injection Wiring Harness Extra Length