I think I'm going to skip the Stage 2s and go straight for the Hybrids.

I was thinking about a 38R, but the more I read, that isn't enough turbo to take advantage of the amount of fuel the hybrids can supply.

Am I better off going with a modded H2e or a larger Garrett?

What I think I know:
Used H2e turbos are cheap, can be modified or replaced with something larger pretty easily. The installation kit is the expensive part of this turbo option.

The Garrett is a direct bolt in replacement. Limited to about 40psi. Non serviceable by anyone other than Garrett.

I'll be running the stock turbo in the meantime. What kind of boost am I going to see out of that thing? I'm currently at around 27 with my DP Tuner, 6637 and straight exhaust (no muffler / no cat).
It is my understanding that the stock turbo can be serviced pretty cheaply, if I need to do this before I get a real turbo, so be it.

I just want to make sure I buy the right turbo, once. I believe I've made the right decision on the injectors.

Any and all help is appreciated, Thanks,
Jack

 

What kind of HP are you wanting? The 38R can get you around 525hp with the proper set up and tuning. Myself if I was going to 475hp+ I would not get the 38r I would move on up and get the max from them 230's just my .02

 

Just be careful -- you're pushing a stock block. I'm in the same boat.

 

One more thing you do have forged rods but if you go much over 400 hp you may want to look at some head studs and springs just to be a little safer.

 

With 9" lift and 40's,I hope you beef up the drivetrain.

I like the H2E setup myself.What I have been reading the h2e and hybirds are a good combo.

 

Like the guys have said, just know what you are getting into. There are supporting mods to be thought of and how much hp you want to end up with matters also. I your not planning on using the power it's alot of money to spend.

I would also suggest a 1.15 turbine housing if you geta 38r

 

I can't imagine setting a limit on HP...

Whats the difference between 400hp and 500hp other than the amount of other parts that will break? If the hybrids and a 38R or the hybrids with a H2e will get me there, its all in tuning at that point, right?

I'm sold on hybrids because of the stock HPOP in my truck and the fact that they are the cream of the crop right now for sticks. A 38R will bolt right in, but is it enough turbo to take advantage of the fuel?

From what I'm hearing in here, yes, the 38R is enough, but only if I want to sit at around 400-450hp. The H2e will allow me to push that 500hp mark more safely.

Clay, I agree. Its a lot of money to spend, and a lot of things can go wrong. Other than studs and possibly valve springs, what else would the motor actually need to do a dyno pass "all-out" for that magic 500 number? I'm not even expecting that, realistically, I'd be happy with maxing out at 400-450hp with my tires and an automatic transmission. I have to look into Jody's Dyno tune, if the power comes on slowly (to save parts) but still gets you a great number up top, that would be nice. Nobody in my area really has a nice 7.3 making that kind of power. Unless they are hiding Who wouldn't want to make 500 on the dyno and run around with 400 the rest of the time?

If I can run around with 400hp as a daily driver, no problem. I drag race. I don't sled pull (though I'd like to try), and I don't haul really heavy loads (rarely over 10k)... so it would be daily driving... and daily abuse.

Thanks everyone. I'm looking for some other options for the H2e mounting kit... Clay I didn't see anything on your site, and I haven't found much other than the Hypermax kit.

 

500 is really pushing the stock block, Jack. We've seen forged motors windowed well below that number -- I'm running my hybrids right now with a van turbo, and they are really too much for it. I pushing my PMR engine really hard right now, and I know I'm risking it. We shall see if it holds together in the long run. It's really a craps shoot, from what I can tell.

 

Are you still running the stock exhaust? You will need to upgrade that for that kind of HP. You'll also want to upgrade your fuel system to a regulated return. Have you done anything to the transmission yet?

I'm just trying to think of things that need to be done to support that kind of HP.

 

I'm going to ocncur with others, you have GOT to get head studs at a minimum. Folks are running around with studs on stock gaskets OK... but some folks are also blowing gaskets at 40 psi even with studs. Or worse...

Either way, if you don't get some live tuning you are robbing yourself. Assuming you are going to use Jody, highly recommend you talk to him before buying anything and see what injector flow data he wants.

While you're right about Hybrids being able to make the most of a stock HPOP... as long as you're blowing thousands on your truck, why not upgrade that too? Just saying...

 

I think he's just at the edge of needing headstuds. If you go with a 38r, then I don't think so. Mod'ed H2E, yes. Just be warned -- 500 at the wheels on a stock block has been done, but again, it's a craps shoot. Yours may hold together, or it may not. Be prepared to build a new block at that level.

 

238 %60 hybrids is about all a 38R can handle as long as its a 1.15 non WG housing ...there is a bunch of guy's making just about 500HP with the 38R... i guess it depends on your future HP....

 

Correct me if I'm wrong, but we've also seen stock blocks produce much more hp than that, right? Also, from what I've read, a lot of respectable tuners blame those problems on the tuning, or lack thereof. If there is no difference in hardware, why are some blocks getting picture windows @ 400-450hp and some blocks are making 600+ run after run?

I agree ... total craps shoot most of the time. You won't know if you have a bad tune until its too late sometimes.

I'm new to the aftermarket on these trucks, but I've been around the block with forced induction on cars. I know what a good tune can do, and I know with good tuning - motors can make far more power than that same motor with poor tuning, and last a lot longer.

I understand your concern, I'm not being ignorant or anything, just looking for answers.



Another area of dispute is downpipes and exhaust. I'm currently running the stock downpipe. The only thing on the end of that pipe is a 6" stack, under the truck. Now, from what I've read, there is little to no gain by going to a 4" dp. BUT, that may have only applied to lower HP levels. There is a GTP38R for sale on another forum with a 4" DP... I'd be interested in that. I'm not going to lose sleep if I have to throw a bigger pipe on it. Would a stock DP with nothing else restrict serious power?

Regulated Return - What is the benefit of this, and is it really necessary? I know very little about it, I've seen them installed but never on something that I thought really needed it. Diesel Power/World just put one on a truck, and I have no idea why.

My transmission blew up 4th of July weekend. 160k on the truck I got the DP Tuner. 180k on the truck and the tranny is gone. $2200 later I have a built tranny with a 5 yr warranty. Not worried about that.

Studs are probably going in. I understand the need for those.
Live tuning would be nice. Jody isn't cheap, and neither is a trip to GA.

I've recently been reading several threads about Stealth, Adrenaline, Terminator, Gen II... and there are definitely 2 different camps on these too. Yes, a lot of guys run them. Yes, I would see a benefit. Is the benefit really worth the $2500 or so? If I was running B Codes, probably. On these hybrids? Not likely worth the money, right? If my HPOP takes a crap on me, you better believe I'll have big oil, but thats one of the reasons I went with the hybrids. I'm looking for "bang for my buck", at this point I think studs, hybrids, and a turbo are going to fulfill my needs - make decent power, make reliable power, make my wallet as thin as it has to be without going dry. I don't need 500hp (or 450) all the time. Would I like it for the 5 seconds I'm WOT on the dyno? Sure.

I've seen several instances where people just throw money at these things to buy "supporting mods" and little to no value is actually "felt" in SOTP... and even less is "felt" when they also get a free window in their block.

Keep the input coming guys, it isn't falling on deaf ears.

EDIT - Just to clarify guys, I'm not looking to break any records, I don't make enough money to do that. Would I like to make 400-500hp as cheaply as possible and have money in the bank for when she lets go? Yup.

 

Jack the hybrids,38R and Jody's tunes will get you over 400 RWHP probably closer to 450HP and more if you want it and its all simple but if you can swing it I would still get the head studs. All for under $5000.00
You will want the 1.15 housing like Ron said.

 

I'm not trying to be controversial, but I don't know what you are reading that says there's not advantage going from a 3" dp to a 4". Biggest killer to modded engines- EGT's; biggest advantage to bigger exhaust- lower EGT's. I installed mine after I had a chip, and that was was basically it for mods. I saw around 200* reduction in my EGT's. The smaller exhaust won't necessarily restrict power, but with lower EGTs you can stay into the power longer, which I consider more usuable power.

Regarding the regulated fuel system, it probably won't give you a boost in power. But the biggest killer to injectors, any injectors, is air. The advantage to the RR is that it works the air out of the system before it gets to the injectors. Whereas the stock system dead heads in the heads. Another big advantage is that the RR setup supplies fuel to both heads from the rear of the head and returns from the front. Advantage- the #8 injector fires directly after #6, when fuel is supplied from the front of the head (which it is on the stock setup) you can starve the #8 injector for fuel. Moreso when dumping more fuel with larger injectors. Ford tried to remedy the situation with a 'long lead' injector, but it was just a band-aid. I made a "homemade" regulate return trying to save a few bucks.

You can put on big injectors and turbo and tune it fore 500hp, but it won't last long if the little things aren't taken care off. I'm just trying to provide some "base" mods to support the more fun ones. You're on the right track towards your goal. I'd love to get towards 500hp, I'm guessing I'm right at 400rwhp now, but always want more. I use my truck on the farm and do a lot of towing, so I want "safe" big HP, probably like everyone else.