I learned that lesson the hard way on my first truck, a 1951 F-1.

 

Tom,
First off, welcome to the FTE forum!
If I had that truck and it was running I wouldn't touch it. If you REALLY want to build a hot rod F100 then start from a pile of parts and build it from the ground up...keep this one intact. There is no reason not to use the Ford frame, unless your just into pain. There any many frames available and a wide variety of IFS to make them ride and handle like a new truck. The aftermarket is full of fenders, grilles, running boards, beds, you-name-it. Start with a frame, add the IFS and rear suspension that you like, build a nice Ford small block engine, bolt on a good cab and sheetmetal, and you'll have a nice Ford truck that you can be proud of.

 

Thank you for all the responses. Sorry I didn't get back to you all sooner!

I know where Robbin's is, I go to community college with a friend that lives there.

I have access to a lift but I won't til the beginning of January.

How easy would it be to get a NOS frame? I would like something that's strong enough to handle the 400+ HP that's going to come from the stroker. Would you guys like some pictures of the frame so you can better judge what it really is? I have no idea what a 53 frame looks like so I can't tell for myself.

 

Tom,

Just let me know if you interested and I will give you my friends contact info. Private message me if you want his info. He knows a thing or two about 53-56 F100's especially frames.

 

Tom, I'm just down the road from you in Durham. My 56 Panel has a 400 CSB and T-56, 9" with stock chassis. I'm also a national level autocross racer with a strong drag racing background. I'd love to take a close look at your truck and talk over various options before you get too deep into it. You can email me at teampointless(at)nc(dot)rr(dot)com

 

HI Tom!

Happy New Year and Welcome to FTE!

 

Done and Done! Thanks y'all. I'll get some pictures posted of the truck frame and cross members today or tomorrow.

 

John hit it on the nail. Here's a photo of a typical frame rail stamped VIN and a second photo with a red arrow showing where I found it.

 

Judging by just that picture, it's not the original frame.

 

If you do indeed have a 3/4 ton GM truck frame it should be able to handle your stroker motor with no problem because GM put big block engines in 3/4 ton frames with no problems. I used to have a 1973 3/4 ton Chevrolet truck with the factory 454 and Turbo 400 trans. Fun truck.

 

Tom, I should have written a more clear reply. My truck is a 1956 F-250 and has a different frame than a stock 1953 F-100 would have. I posted the pictures to give you an idea of where the VIN is stamped (they should be in roughly the same place on both our trucks) and what it might look like when cleaned up with a little degreaser and a wire brush. Sometimes it is very hard to find your VIN stamp with road crud and oil covering it. Cleaning the frame rail a bit before looking and then using a flashlight at an angle will sometimes make a lot easier to read accurately.

 

The reason I wonder if it can handle the stroker is because every time I turn onto uneven ground (ie the truck is "tweaked" a bit) as in going up a curb with one tire up and one down it kind of "creeks". I'm not sure if it's a body mount or what but i've never had any issues.

 

earl how the hades did you get into the place i got my new frame stashed at and take a pic without my knowledge ???????????? LOL ..................................

 

We crafty ones never tell our secrets. It's sorta like being Santa, only he's skinnier.

 

Tom, the stock frame is designed to twist. Not knowing what you actually have makes it hard to diagnose your "creak", but if the frame was swapped then it may be coming from however they mounted the cab and other components.
What type suspension does your truck have front and rear?