I dont know when they broke but the 2 rear bolts on the pax. side and broken. The last one is broken off flush and the next one I cant tell. I had the engine replaced 26K miles ago. Should I leave this for the pros or what???

Thanks, Slug-O 2004 Ex. v10

 

It's going to be a pain at the least. Since they are flush, you will probably have to drill and use an easy out to back them out, or drill and rethread the hole.

 

I had a broken stud on mine too. I was dreading the project, but finally decided I couldn't really make it too much worse if I was careful. A good set of easy outs, a small angle drill, and a steady hand is what you need. Remove the wheel and the inner fender cowling. At that point, the exhaust manifold is staring you in the face. I think I was lucky, the broken stud came out pretty easily.

Steve

 

Here is what took place when I did it myself...

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...s-project.html

 

Took mine to a good exhaust shop. They replaced all 20 for ~$600. Some had to be extracted too.

 

Have a friend at work and has a V10 in his motor home, apperantly these problems are very common with this motor. He had to have the heads removed to have the job done (I think he was in the 4K range when done)

 

Just had all mine done about 6 months ago- had atleast 5 that were snapped off and had all of them replaced-
they did it without taking the heads off, and cost me $1k
its tricky but they can all be reached with the motor in the truck, without removing heads

 

thanks guys..I havent made up my mind what I will do yet but I wil let you all know.

thanks, Slug-O

 

For that kind of money, I'd pick up a set of heads. Clean them up, port and polish them a bit, make them fresh and bolt them in place of the old heads. Kill a couple birds with one stone.

 

I attempted to do it myself just for the reason that I didn't want someone else to try to do it and screw something up and tell me I need a new head or something. If you are mechanically inclined, have patience, and can be without the truck for a few weeks, it is very do-able with the motor in and the heads on. Like I said in my thread above, total cost was about $140.

Dave

 

I pick it up today from the shop. 2 hours labor at 90.00 per hour plus parts. not bad...

Slug-O

 

Dang I must be lucky. 105k and they all look good. Hope I didn't jinx myself. (Knocking on wood.) :-)>

 

ok picked it up yesterday. turned out 2.7 hours of labor and 54.00 of parts and shop supplies total 334.00

I can live with that...

Slug-O

 

[quote=Slug-O;8273847]ok picked it up yesterday. turned out 2.7 hours of labor and 54.00 of parts and shop supplies total 334.00

I can live with that...

Slug-O[/quote

Thats not bad. Glad you got er fixed. I have removed a lot of exhaust studs in my day,and most them will break off if your removing the manifolds. Not all of them all the time , but quite a few do break off. I always pre soak the studs with a penetrating fluid for as long as my patience holds out. This works pretty good. Quite a few studs will break off right where the nut is against the manifold. If your this lucky then you can soak it some more and twist it out with pliers or a stud remover if the stud is long enough. Never had to much luck with those.

 

Now is also the time to install a nice set of headers and replace the intermediate pipe with a better flowing section.

BTW, I keep an eye on mine and at 50k they are all still like new. I do want to replace them before they become a problem, that is when the headers, free flowing intermediate pipe mod and Flowmater 70 series muffler will be going in.