I have a 96' F-250 psd with about 240,000 mi. free flow air, 3" downpipe, edge tuner, shimmed FPR., manual and other than that the motor is stock. The problem I am having is the HPOP reservoir keeps running itself dry or low. I don't have major oil leaks, the oil level is normal. This problem just started about 2 weeks ago, I was driving down the road and it just shut down. Had to take it to dealership to diagnose problem all the could tell me that the HPOP was low, they filled up and it ok for a while then this evening I was driving down road again and it did same thing. I fill the HPOP myself and got it started and let it run for a few minutes then it ran dry again. Filled it up again and got it running again after serious cranking on it. but it keeps running dry and dying. What can cause this?? is this a symptom of the HPOP going out?? or some other problem. If it is the pump how hard are they to change? I want to upgrade to the superduty 17* How easy is that to do??

 

either really bad injector o rings or bad pump. Maybe one of the oil rail plugs.

 

I believe a cracked lubricating oil pump pickup or faulty seal where the pickup attaches to front cover/oil pump could also cause this, another possibility is worn engine lubricating oil pump.

 

Wag ....Either the LPOP can't keep up , or a really torn O ring ,Reservoir gasket can cause it also ..May need to pull the valve covers & watch for oil bubbling up from the base of an injector or 2...Cheap test..

 

X2

Check for leak on high pressure side.
If good the issue will be on the low pressure side.

Bill

 

I will do the valve cover off test,( just had then the other day replacing glow plugs and gaskets). next question, how do I hook up a gauge to the high pressure side?( any pics or instructions??) I have a liquid filled gauge sitting in my shop. I think it goes to 3 or 4 thousand psi is that sufficient?

 

Here is what is needed to put a gauge together thanks to Swamps site.

If you don't have access to a scantool, then go to your local hydraulic supply
house, and have them make you up a mechanical gauge. You might spend $60
or so on high pressure hose, fittings, and a quality 0-3500psi liquid filled
gauge....but having this hose available for future diagnostics might be more
valuable than you think.
The hose which you will need will need to be about 40" long, rated for
(minimum) 3000psi working pressure (12k psi burst rating!) with the gauge on
one end, and a #6 female JIC swivel fitting crimped onto the other.
You will also need an individual fitting to screw into the head to go from the
head to the hose.
This single fitting will be a 90degree fitting # 5 "male boss" (sometimes called #
5 o-ring) on one end of the 90, and a # 6 male JIC on the other end of the 90.
Our local hydraulic shop would label such a fitting as 5MB-6MJ90
"JIC" is nothing special...it's just 'hydraulic talk' for a 37degree flare
fitting...standard hydraulic stuff here...nothing rare by any stretch.
Looking at the top of (either) cylinder head, you'll see the factory stainless
braided oil lines (one to each head) then you'll see a few bronze colored
plugs... (Engine off, of course) Using a 5/8" wrench, remove any one of the
bronze plugs, and install the 90deg fitting into the hole. (save the plug for
reinstallation , after testing). and the O-rings are reusable, unless brittle,
cracked, etc...
The single 90deg fitting will have a "jamb nut" on the O-ring side...screw the
fitting into the head, "aiming" the 90 away from the turbo, intercooler pipes,
etc...and then tighten the jamb nut, to "squish" the O-ring also locking the 90
from "spinning" around as you attach the swivel end of the hose to the 90. No
sealants, loctite, or teflon tape are needed on "JIC" or O-ring fittings...and
don't overtighten them...usually about 180degrees with a wrench past finger tight.

 

I have an auto ingiunity scan will this do the same for diagnosis ( I have used it much still trying to figure it out) will this help with other oil issues???

 

Get the IPR and ICP readings cranking and running the motor.

Bill

 

update 12-23-09
I have conducted the test with my auto enginuity software and this is what I came up with -my ICP reading was 192 psi at cranking, idle is 796.17, 2000 rpm is 1321 psi. ICP duty cycle is 14.45% and ICP volts are 1.07 ( if any of that info. is needed) It did not give me an option to read the IPR. The max values it shown on the software around 5000 psi. My readings are to the low end of the spectrum. is this the problem with the HPOP?

 

The Res emptying won't be caused by the HPOP. your IPR & ICP numbers look OK .

What do you get when the motor is hot ?...

 

I have the left bank valve cover off right now and I am looking for bubbling which I have no idea where ?? around the injector yes but how do you see anything??I did notice something on the injectors where it looks like an exhaust port for the oil on the top side of the injector 3 out of 4 of these ports were pumping out oil into the valve cover area at a decent pace and the 3rd one in line from front to back was hardly putting out any oil what so ever. is this a problem of something

 

the ICP numbers are the same hot or cold

 

Oil should be exiting each injector evenly .. Is it warm or cold engine

 

the engine is cold right now but i did notice it is the two center ones not pumping hardly anything. should I let it warn up and see if it increases or decreases??