We had a cold snap here for the last couple of days (-38 celsius) and I noticed my truck felt as though it was working harder? That's at least what it sounded like. It was like I was towing a heavy load up a hill or something without having the turbo or revs spooled up. Does the cold weather make these trucks run a bit differently? I let it warm up for half an hour or so and it was plugged in as well. I had a company truck for the last 5 years and didn't drive mine too often so I'm not used to the sounds yet. lol Is this normal though?

 

- 38C?

That is real cold.

Did you use a shield for rad to cut down cooling?

At that temp, the engine may just not warm up at all.. what does the temp gauge say?

Are you using No.1 diesel (less energy, therefore... work harder / more fuel injected)?

Do you use antigel? Did tank gel up. (pump harder, fuel starvation)?

Are you running a lot of accessories (heater, electrical stuff like heated seats)?

 

Do not warm up for 30 min. A diesel at that temp at idle will wet stack. Do you have a hi idle mod? If not you need it. Then let it warm up for a couple min. and drive conservitively till it warms up.

 

- no winterfront
- temp gauge was at 184 and usually sits at 200.... warm air was coming from heater so yes the engine was warm
- there is no "No.1" diesel at the Shell I went to (in Edmonton, Alberta Canada)
- I don't put any additives into my fuel... I never have... but I didn't drive my truck too often either
- the only accessories I run are the ones I always run, heater/defroster and my heated seats.

I think I will take your advice on the antigel today but it is nowhere what it was the other day... only -25 celsius today! lol

So Is this common for these trucks to run a bit differently in the cold? Has anyone else had this issue?

 

My truck came from factory with the high-idle mod so will this negate the "wet stack" deal? What is that by the way, oil not circulating because revs are to low?

 

You can get a winter front through cabela's. Or a piece of cardboard over the radiator, through some water on it to get it too stick. Man those are some cold temps!! Hi-idle mod should be on your list also along with anti-gel.

 

Get that winterfront put on ASAP and use it.

No. 1... isn't that done automatically by the retailer? i.e. deliveries around this time should be blended for you. Another reason for lower mileage -- less energy in blended fuel.

Keep a can of kerosene and antigel in cab just to be sure.

In my case, I upgraded the insulation in my vehicle --- big job, involve a tear down and so on.. if you are interested, I can fill you in.

You are probably using a lot more fuel than needed because the engine is losing so much heat without the winterfront.

Oh.. synthetic oil.. 5w-40 a must.

Batteries and cables in top shape is great idea too.

 

Cheap winterfront:

Remove the plastic piece between rad and front of vehicle.

Use relatively small pieces of cardboard... cover it up.

DO THIS INDOORS.... Preferably in heated garage after everything is warm.



If your vehicle was filled with old diesel (from summer) then you probably have a load of No.2 and not winter blend... that can explain a lot of odd things.

 

The truck came new from Ford with the High Idle mode. It starts at regular idle and goes up to about 1100 rpm if it idles too long and alternates between idle and 1100rpm.

 

It's had fresh fuel regularly now... got laid off so bye bye to the company truck which is why I've been driving my beast! Everyone else was getting stuck and breaking down in the cold-snap but I had no problem starting mine or getting around.... except for the fact it sounded like it was over revving or working harder than usual. I just want to make sure it's not something could be disasterous down the road and that maybe it was the fact that it was just too damn cold.

 

Symptoms you are suggesting is consistent with the engine too cold.

e.g. suspect: would oil that is too cold in turbo make it struggle / lag / bog?

That is why you need the winterfront now.


I operate in a similar climate (not as bad yet) and can tell you, there are lots of things most users on here don't experience because they are not in Alaska (USA).. or your parts of Canada.


BTW, I killed the DRL to conserve battery.


Have you a way of pre-heating the cold air intake?

 

This is a link to the high idle mod everyone is recommending. They do not come from the factory wired. I have mine wired into the #4 outfitter switch and apply the parking break. Works very well.

Forgot link:http://www.thedieselstop.com/content...%20High%20Idle

 

Where this fella is (-38C) temp... we often do not use the parking brake for fear that it will freeze solid "on".

So the better way is to wire it to a dedicated switch.

 

I updated my last post and provided the link. Not sure about wiring it without the use of the parking brake. Something to look into.

 

Further thoughts:

Here is the proof I am looking for --- this is for a small arctic diesel that is rated to -46C.

Note the mods on it to make it run well (or not required)

- Intake air heating with diesel fired heater

- Doesn't need timing change (to account for lower volatility of diesel at low temps).

- Arctic grade P50 diesel fuel --



Advanced Engine Technology


From this... the first thing I would do is to get that engine compartment warmed --- with a blocked off front.

Then.. if you need it.. preheat intake air (does it go to an intercooler? If yes, disconnect the cooler.)



Take a look at this patent:

Internal combustion engine low temperature starting system - US Patent 5570667 Description


Advanced Engine Technology