Notices
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks
Sponsored by:
Sponsored by:

Guide to changing '91 f150 drag link?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 12-06-2009, 11:53 PM
FireBlue's Avatar
FireBlue
FireBlue is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Guide to changing '91 f150 drag link?

Hey guys is there and electronic service manual available of can anyone tell me the steps/equipment ill need to change over the drag link on my 2wd '91 f150?

CHeers
 
  #2  
Old 12-07-2009, 12:06 AM
zxwut?'s Avatar
zxwut?
zxwut? is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Fort Worth
Posts: 1,964
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Remove cotter pins from nuts on the ends, take off nuts, press off or force off with a pickle fork. New ones slide in and torque them down to pull them through, replace cotter pin. Make sure you grease the joints.
 
  #3  
Old 12-07-2009, 12:22 AM
FireBlue's Avatar
FireBlue
FireBlue is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks man, ill give it a go... Should i put the front wheels on ramps while i do this?
 
  #4  
Old 12-07-2009, 12:31 AM
FireBlue's Avatar
FireBlue
FireBlue is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Melbourne
Posts: 271
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Oh i BTW i have a CBR929 which i have done a few things to. How do you add stuff to your sig?
 
  #5  
Old 12-07-2009, 12:35 AM
zxwut?'s Avatar
zxwut?
zxwut? is offline
Fleet Mechanic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Fort Worth
Posts: 1,964
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Originally Posted by FireBlue
Thanks man, ill give it a go... Should i put the front wheels on ramps while i do this?
I wouldn't do ramps just because I don't like them, but if you need the extra room, I don't see why it would be a bad thing. To add stuff to your sig, go to user cp in the upper left hand corner of the window, then pick edit signature on the left side of the page.
BTW, if you're going to have to buy one or the other, I'd buy a press. I don't like the idea of hammering with a pickle fork on a piece that is connected to the output shaft of the steering box.
 
  #6  
Old 12-07-2009, 01:14 AM
DBGrif91's Avatar
DBGrif91
DBGrif91 is offline
Cargo Master
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Des Moines
Posts: 2,521
Received 47 Likes on 37 Posts
Pickle forks work just fine for the tie rods. Just make sure the tip of the fork isn't catching the boot before you start hammering on it. But a puller is the best idea for removing the drag link from the steering box shaft. Most auto parts stores will rent them.

Use the ramps if you want, just make sure to set the parking brake and chock the wheels for extra safety. I didn't replace mine, but I did have to pull it to drop the steering gear box and I had plenty of room with my tires on the ground.

A note on replacing the pitman arm nut tho- if you don't have a torque wrench that's capable of reaching the 200 some odd ft-lbs of torque needed to reinstall the nut, you'll be okay just using a wrench and getting the nut as tight as you can. I reinstalled mine with a big crescent wrench and then placed my feet against the tire and pulled on the wrench until I just couldn't get any more out of it. I checked it again about 2 weeks later and it was still tight, and I haven't had any problems since.
 
  #7  
Old 12-07-2009, 08:37 AM
1OldFordMan's Avatar
1OldFordMan
1OldFordMan is online now
Logistics Pro

Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: St. Charles County, Mo.
Posts: 4,560
Received 26 Likes on 21 Posts
Originally Posted by DBGrif91
Pickle forks work just fine for the tie rods. Just make sure the tip of the fork isn't catching the boot before you start hammering on it. But a puller is the best idea for removing the drag link from the steering box shaft. Most auto parts stores will rent them.

Use the ramps if you want, just make sure to set the parking brake and chock the wheels for extra safety. I didn't replace mine, but I did have to pull it to drop the steering gear box and I had plenty of room with my tires on the ground.

A note on replacing the pitman arm nut tho- if you don't have a torque wrench that's capable of reaching the 200 some odd ft-lbs of torque needed to reinstall the nut, you'll be okay just using a wrench and getting the nut as tight as you can. I reinstalled mine with a big crescent wrench and then placed my feet against the tire and pulled on the wrench until I just couldn't get any more out of it. I checked it again about 2 weeks later and it was still tight, and I haven't had any problems since.
If you don't have an American torque wrench ( Australia uses metric, right? ), here's a place to convert his ft./lbs. to metric.

http://www.sciencemadesimple.net/pressure.php

Good luck on the job.
 
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Ronnief150man
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
15
03-02-2016 03:50 AM
Road Warrior 95
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
07-05-2014 09:55 AM
SuperDuty93
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
10
05-13-2012 11:38 PM
78Ranger400
1973 - 1979 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks
5
11-12-2010 08:46 PM
lasitter
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
2
05-24-2010 09:59 PM



Quick Reply: Guide to changing '91 f150 drag link?



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:14 PM.