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'92 In-Line Fuel Filter replacement advice needed.

 
  #1  
Old 12-06-2009, 12:10 AM
92 Red F150
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Question '92 In-Line Fuel Filter replacement advice needed.



Hi all, I need some advice on changing the in-line fuel filter on my '92 F150. It appears to be the orginal fuel filter and at 156K miles, it's overdue. The above diagram is from my Service Manual and is exactly how my fuel filter looks. I did some searching on FTE but I still have some questions for those of you who have done this.

1. I plan to unbolt the fuel filter bracket from the frame to give me some working room. Then depressure the fuel line using the schrader valve on the fuel rail and open the gas cap to relieve any tank pressure. When I remove the fuel lines from the filter, will the gas tank continue to gravity feed until I can get the new filter reinstalled or will it only leak out what is sitting in the line from the tank because the intank fuel pump will act as a stop? I have visions of a continious stream of gasoline running down my arm as I struggle to get the new filter inserted! The Service Manual says to make sure the front of the truck is higher than the rear tank. I plan to do this with the truck sitting on all 4 wheels. Do I need to raise the front of the truck? And if so, how high?

2. When I bought the Purolator F64711 fuel filter from NAPA, he said that I would need a fuel line release tool. So I got their NAPA Line Quick Disconnect kit (p/n 3530) with the assortment of different sized plastic inserts. I'm not so sure now that I need this kit. Is this kit used for the metal spring-lock connectors which appear to be different/larger than the smaller diameter connectors in the above drawing?

3. In looking at the above drawing, to remove the fuel filter, do you only have to remove the (2) #3 clips from the fuel line and simply pull the fuel lines off the filter? Or do you actually have to insert one of the plastic inserts from the above NAPA kit into/around the fuel line to get it to release from the fuel filter? It almost looks like the (2) #3 clips are what actually hold the fuel lines onto the filter.

4. I would have almost thought there would be some mention of replacing some o-rings but there is no mention of any o-rings in the Service Manual. Also none came with the new fuel filter. Evidently these fuel line connectors seal to the fuel filter without any o-rings?

If you have replaced an in-line fuel filter on an '92 F-150, I would appreciate your input on the above questions. Thanks.
 

Last edited by 92 Red F150; 12-06-2009 at 12:17 AM. Reason: mispelled word
  #2  
Old 12-06-2009, 07:08 AM
Linemo
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You have the right tool the clips are an added extra to keep the couplers from pulling apart ! There are no o-rings to replace just unclip the retainers and use the proper size disconnect tool to spread the internal springs releasing the filter the new filter will just push and snap in just be sure they seat in the connectors
 
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Old 12-06-2009, 07:31 AM
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Ok #1 I did unbolt the filter from the frame for more room to work around.
#1B All you have to do, to depressure fuel line is; pull the interior panel at the feet of your passenger side of the cab. Inside there is a inersia switch( its a little black box with a red button on the top) then turn you truck on and trip the switch, im not sure if you have to press the button or tap the box with a screw drive to trip it. Truck will turn off its self from lack of fuel.
#1C Alot of gas flows out when you pull the filter out, if its still comeing from the tank i dont think so but when your under there you can get covered in gas i rec, Eye Protection!
#2 You will need the quick release tool.
#3Pic 3 in the diag is like a little extra back up clip, i did not replace them on my truck because space was so tight. Once you pop these off you are going to need find the right size disconnector that fits prefect around the tubes comeing out of the filter it self. The flat back of the tool should be faceing the filter, you want to get behind that part of the tool and pull it across the neck of the filter and wedge it inbetween the filter and the fuel line. What is happening is the the plasic ring is pushing 3 spring loaded bearings up and over the notch in the neck of the filter.
#4 No O-ring that i know of
 
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Old 12-06-2009, 08:06 AM
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rikard
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I unplugged the fuel pump relay fuse and started the engine to relieve the pressure.
I did unbolt the fuel filter to gain room to use the tool to disconnect the fuel lines. There will be residual fuel in the lines but it will stop. A few rags will help.
The tool with the plastic inserts seems to work better than the metal
I sprayed WD 40 in the fuel line connections to help. Pushing the lines in while inserting the tool and then pulling the line back will release the coupling.
I was able to do this without jacking up my 2wd 150.
Good luck and wear eye protection.
rikard
 
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Old 12-06-2009, 03:36 PM
92 Red F150
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Using the above advice, I just finished this job. Some observations:
I did not have to jack up the front of the truck.
I depressured the fuel system via schrader valev only because I had been playing with it earlier on another job I was doing and knew it's location.
I sprayed the spring connections with WD-40. Removed the 2 nuts from the frame mount.
With goggles on, I removed both safety clip locks from the lines. I started with the engine side of the filter because there is ample room. Using the 3/8" (9mm) blue plastic fiting (flat side against the filter body) and was able to work it in and finally release the fuel line. I just got a little gas that poured out but I had a couple of plastic pans to catch it. The tank side of the filter was a pita because there is very little room between the filter/frame/gas tank-who designed this? When I finally got the filter unlatched, more gas poured out here but I had my pans ready. It too, finally died down. I probably got only a cup of gas total. Just reversed the procedure and the new filter snaps back into the fuel lines. I used a wide blade screwdriver to spread the longer legs of the safety clip locks to get them started onto the lines and then they could be seated fully by pushing on them. Fired it up and no leaks. Good for another 156K miles!
Thanks to all who replied to my post with their tips.
 
  #6  
Old 12-06-2009, 03:43 PM
btswank
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they really say you should change the filter every 30k miles i believe. if you still have the old one around you can blow through it to see how bad it was. but blow downward of course so you don't get a gasoline mouth wash. if it feels like trying to blow up a balloon it was way overdue and maybe even stock. a new fuel filter is like blowing through a straw. congrats on the repair though
 
 
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