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Might be buying a 1990 F-250, Any Tips or Concerns?

 
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Old 11-23-2009, 11:18 PM
SkiRush
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Might be buying a 1990 F-250, Any Tips or Concerns?

Hello all, I left a deposit on a 1990 F250, Extra Cab, 4x4 with a 460 and I amm-considering-a-1990 F-250-any-pointers-concerns-or-tips? The truck has 150k miles and is pretty clean overall. There is a little bit of the typical rust around the rear wheel wells, but that's it. I am able to buy it for under $2000. The guy selling the truck says that the previous owner used to plow his private residence with it, but didn't do it commercially. My test drive with it did not reveal any unusual shifts. The engine sounded fine when running, but I noticed at start up it sounded like a "slow" or "hard" start up; almost like a weak battery. Is this typical for the big motor? Or, is it a sign that it needs a new battery and maybe a starter?

The guy said that the temp gauge inside does not work and that he thinks it's the "sending unit". He said it's an inexpensive and simple fix. Is this true?

So...is there anything in particular that I should look out for or be generally concerned about. I wasn't crazy about that fact that it's been a plow truck before...you never know how hard it's been driven. I've never owned a Ford truck...let alone a 3/4 ton truck.

Anyway, back to the Ford 250. Generally speaking, how are the axles, transfer cases, and transmissions in these trucks? I know that this is a vague question; I appreciate any help you all can give.


Thanks,
Ski
 
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Old 11-24-2009, 11:30 AM
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I shy away from any plow truck regardless of who used it. My theory is the mileage is twice as much with all the forwards and backwards driving they do. Add in the extra exposure to salt. Slow starting can be poor grounds/cables or a weak battery. Temp. sending unit is pretty cheap.

Personally I do not like the IFS front end the F150/250 use. I recently purchased a '92 F350 for the solid front axle and because when I haul something it is usually heavy. Whatever you find and works for your needs determines what is suitable. Sounds like a decent truck, just take some time to inspect it and take care of the little things before they become more expensive to fix.
 
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Old 11-24-2009, 11:45 AM
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The F250 is a pretty stout truck, but I agree; if it was used to plow, add alot of wear and tear to the front end. Plan on needing to replace all the bearings/ball joints/shocks/bushings in a short amount of time.

Slow starts in these things generally mean weak starter, caused by a weak battery.

Temp gauge can either be an easy or hard fix. If it is the sender, than hes right, easy fix, about 10 min worth of work. but it could also be the gauge itself, or the plugs/wiring in between, which either one of those and its considerably more work. BUT... sending units go out much more frequently than gauges. Mine went out in my 89

With that said, I LOVE my 89 F250. The rear axle is gonna be a Sterling 10.25 FF, plenty beefy, the front will either be the dana 44HD or dana 50 TTB, no worrys either way if you plan on keeping the suspension stock. If your gonna lift it id say stay away from the D44HD You didnt say if it was a manual or auto trans. If its a manual, it will be the ZF S5-42, a BULLETPROOF trans good to about 500hp. if its an auto, you will either have the E4OD or the C6. C6 is a strong trans, but the E4 will be a ticking time bomb in a plow truck. The transfer case will be the borg warner 13-56. An ok unit, not bulllet proof, but not weak either.
 
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Old 11-24-2009, 11:59 AM
hawaiian21
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Blue Rebel, you mentioned replacing all the bushings and such in the front end. What might one expect to spend having all that work done? Is it possible for the shadetree mechanic to do, or does it require a shop-load of machinery?

SkiRush, check my thread "Won't start when hot", I'm sorting through starting troubles on my 87 F250, 460. Lots of info there.
 
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Old 11-24-2009, 12:10 PM
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The bushings on the F250s will be the ones in the ends of the springs, the ones in the top of the front spring hangers, and the ones in the flex points on the TTB arms. To get the ones in the ttb out you would need a press, Im not sure about the other ones. It would not be cheap to have a shop do it all.
 
 
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