Okay, so I have been working on my FE project for some time now and I want to make sure this will all work right when it goes together.

I have a Ford FE 352 out of a 66 Ford Galaxie, the block is a 65 I believe. It came originally with the Cruise-o-matic. I got a spare FT block out of a 1966 Ford B700 (school bus) with the 5 speed clark 265 Transmission and is the 330 M/D which is the one that doesn't use the Forged crank, I'm pretty sure.

I used the flywheel out of the Bus, and bought a new pilot bearing, pressure plate, and throw-out bearing that matches the old out of the bus, and a new starter that matched the old off the bus. I also used the bellhousing, but haven't attached the engine to the trans yet

Now, on my intake, I bought a Performer 390 Aluminium Intake and a Edelbrock 750 CFM Manual Choke Carb. On the gaskets ,the instructions say, To use the Edelbrock Gasgacinch sealant on the head flanges and the head side of the gaskets and let dry then put the gaskets on. And to use 1/4 of RTV for the end seals. Is this correct? Do I need to put the gasgacinch on the intake side of the gaskets and on the intake?

And for my exhaust manifolds, I have the manifolds off the 330 and off the 352. I read that the FE manifolds are really poor flowing and shouldn't be used. The ones on the 330 look different and I don't know if they are any better.

My dad doesn't want to use headers because he says that they won't take the heat and will burn out. I know they make Cast Iron headers but don't know if they will fit my application. Any ideas on this?

 

Thats a beefy block! Just so we get it right you pulled a 352, tore it down and started a rebuild useing a FT block but with 352 parts? There is a good article about FT FE compatability. I will look it up for you. I will let the engine gurus answer the rest but I would say that if your engine will support a 750cfm 4 barrell then you will want headers. Thats alot of carb and intake.(massive overkill for a stock engine) You didn't say about a cam choice to take advantage of the induction but if you have it all matched up you will need headers.

 

No I used the 352 block. I just pulled the 330 along with the 5 speed trans. I used a pushrod out of it, the alternator brackets and the alternator, and I might use the exhaust manifolds if they are any better. I also used a new camshaft for a 390.

 

The 330 exhaust manifolds will have smaller ports, and are actually MORE restrictive than the FE manifolds. That, and the 330 manifolds will have an exhaust crossover built into them that the FE heads won't work with, so they are a major mis-match.

Headers WILL work. Get a decent set that fit your application, and a set of gaskets to match, and you won't have a problem.

As for the "bus" flywheel with the 352 crank, are you getting this balanced? The 330MD MIGHT have an externally balanced crankshaft, so the flywheel will need to be balanced to the 352 crank.

Big question: What is all this going into? Back into the Galaxy, or a truck?

 

The flywheel doesn't have the counterweight on it. That is the 330 HD that had the Forged Crank, atleast i'm 99.9% sure on that. I'm putting this engine in my 1943 Ford 1.5 ton.

The reason my dad said headers won't work is that they don't take the heat and burn out. Atleast thats what he said.

 

One of the first things to upgrade on these is the exhaust. Headers are a must for an Fe. Any upgrades in induction are mute if you cant get rid of the exhaust. The edel. perf. flows pretty close to the standard 4bbl actually, it just weighs about 50lbs less. As for the carb I'd say it's much more than needed. Try a 600-650cfm for your engine size.

What cam are you running? And what are your plans for the motor? Hot rodding around? Cruisin?

 

What casting numbers or on those '66 model heads? If they are the c6ae-r heads, they can be made into good heads. To my knowledge this was the last year for the tall intake port style heads, eg. CJ intake ports?( 2.34x 1.34 intake) They have the standard 2.02/1.55 valves.Then they went to a different design, smaller intake ports( velocity ports style) after that.This is what I have been told and read and seen. I have two pairs of them, 8-bolt per head exhaust and 14 bolt exhaust, same casting number(c6ae-r), different applications. Two pairs of D2Te-aa heads, one pair of c8ae-h.If for some reason you don't want them and they are c6-ae-r I would like to buy them for another spare set. On a different note I would definitely go with a smaller cfm carb.( 600 cfm) Power is made on the lean side not the rich side.With the 750 cfm carb and being only a 352 cid a 600 cfm carb would be better suited for your engine. The 750 cfm will probably be way to rich for your application.Read your plugs and see what they tell you. Idle to part throttle A\F should be around 13.5 to 14.0 to1. W.O.T. should be close to 12 to 1 A\F. If you go with a 600 cfm carb and your idle A\F ratio is good but, your W.O.T. is lean, then go a size bigger on your back two barrels(jets) or vise versa. Read your plugs and timing and go from there. DO NOT DO TO MANY ADJUSTMENTS ALL AT THE SAME TIME!!!! Take your time and try one thing at a time and see if it changed better or worse. Always read your plugs before going to the next step. Yes and header are a must 2.5-3.00'' exhaust with good mufflers, not to restrictive will let your motor flow better, hence better performance, you can only flow in what you flow out.I hope this helps.

 

ummmmm not to call ZRXlover out but.....
I'm pretty sure that cfm rating pertain to airflow and don't have much to do with mixture. That said, unless your planning on twisting way over 6500 rpm ( which your not gonna do with stock heads and a performer 390 intake), a 750 cfm carb way too big for a 352 going into a truck. You can do the math if you want- 352 cid is .203 cubic feet, at 4500 rpms that's ( divided by 2, remember that the engine only draw air in on every other revolution) 457 cfms. All that's assuming 100% volumetric efficiency which no street drivable carbureted v8 can come close to.

Carbs are rated based on what the flow at 1.5" Hg pressure drop. That's why people overcarburate and get more power by having even less of a pressure drop through the carb, but it comes at price in terms of drivability. If you put a vacuum secondary or AVS 600 cfm carb on it you'll have all the power its gonna make and it will still be very driveable. Unless you live at sea level, you'll have some carb tuning to do after its together.

To answer your questiong about the intake installation- do it just like edelbrock said to- rtv sealing the valleys is way better that cork gaskets. I've never gotten one together where the cork didn't pop out.

I ran out of money before I could buy headers, so I can't answer that one. My truck runs pretty good with stock manifolds.

 

Prolly a barn burner, tire roaster, with a 500 cfm carb and not too big of exhaust out back them headers.

 

Thanks scooter, I think you are right to a point. I'll try to explain how I was looking at it and we can go from there. CFM is a flow rating, the more air the more fuel that comes out of the bowls. Atmospheric psi is about 14.7, the venturi section in the carb drops the psi less than atmospheric psi and speeds up flow. When it ( venturi) drops the psi lower than atmospheric the psi in the bowls is greater so you get more fuel. That is just the concept that I was, using. There are other parts to a carb that helps fuel delivery not just the venturi.That is just how i was looking at it. zrxlover