Carb spacers

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  #46  
Old 01-02-2010, 07:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Kennewick
Its 40 weight with the addition of friction modifiers. Do a google there are at least 10 million (my bs) hits for motor oil explanations. I have 12 motorcycles and this is one of those "off come the gloves subjects" with bikers. I will say this the less differance between the base and w weight the better the oil is concerning deposits 40-10 = 30 as opposed to say 5/30 30-5=25. It also provide the least wear at start up. I use 5 30 synth in most my bikes. I use the same but dino cause I change the FE/Altima/Passat often. I also get 20 psi (truck) oil pressure at idle or I would move up in the w weight If that started to drop. In the summer you could move to a 40 base and 15w. I also use the oil additive from Schucks called Oreily at change because it has a high ZDP content and it's the cheapest I have found. STP 4 cylinder additive also has a high content. (red bottle)
PS Basicly most think 10/40 is for emergencies only. I do too. Where you live I would go with 180* It's cheap and if you don't like it you could just go back. Been a rash of bad t/stats right off the shelf.
I may try a 180 deg. thermostat and go from there, thanks zrx...
 
  #47  
Old 01-04-2010, 09:36 PM
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Kennewick, I don't want to argue please, as some on this forum like to. I would like to maturely discuss this oil description with you if you are willing and patient with me so I can be better informed? I am not saying you are wrong, i would like you to clarify this for me for my understanding? I have read that multi grade oils have been developed for good lubrication and easy cranking in cold weather. Basically, a multi grade oil is thinnest @ low temps. and thickens @ high temps? For example, a 10w-40( the W- stands for winter) exhibits the characteristics of a 10 weight oil(sae 10) oil when the truck is cold. Its lighter weight allows it to travel to the lubricating surfaces quicker and offer less resistant to the starter motor cranking than say, a straight 30 weight( SAE 30)oil. But after the engine reaches operating temp., the 10W-40 oil begins acting like straight 40 weight (SAE-40), its heavier weight provides greater lubrication with less chance of foaming than straight 30 weight oil. I know many people have different opinions about this. I am not saying what I wrote is the best description, I don't know? Maybe you could read this and clarify it for me? I just read your post again and all that I have wrote may be for nothing?I may not have clearly understood your description? If I wrote what you tried to explain about this issue, disregard this, zrxlover. Thanks.
 
  #48  
Old 01-05-2010, 12:31 AM
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Originally Posted by zrxlover
Kennewick, I don't want to argue please, as some on this forum like to. I would like to maturely discuss this oil description with you if you are willing and patient with me so I can be better informed? I am not saying you are wrong, i would like you to clarify this for me for my understanding? I have read that multi grade oils have been developed for good lubrication and easy cranking in cold weather. Basically, a multi grade oil is thinnest @ low temps. and thickens @ high temps? For example, a 10w-40( the W- stands for winter) exhibits the characteristics of a 10 weight oil(sae 10) oil when the truck is cold. Its lighter weight allows it to travel to the lubricating surfaces quicker and offer less resistant to the starter motor cranking than say, a straight 30 weight( SAE 30)oil. But after the engine reaches operating temp., the 10W-40 oil begins acting like straight 40 weight (SAE-40), its heavier weight provides greater lubrication with less chance of foaming than straight 30 weight oil. I know many people have different opinions about this. I am not saying what I wrote is the best description, I don't know? Maybe you could read this and clarify it for me? I just read your post again and all that I have wrote may be for nothing?I may not have clearly understood your description? If I wrote what you tried to explain about this issue, disregard this, zrxlover. Thanks.
I had not talked about oil for a while. I had the base weight backwards. Here is a more accurate version. The w doesn't indicate winter. It indicates the base weight.
Glad you had me look at it again. Anyway I won't make anymore comments about oil. Too much one ups manship for me.

Multi-weight oils (such as 10W-30) are a new invention made possible by adding polymers to oil. The polymers allow the oil to have different weights at different temperatures. The first number indicates the viscosity of the oil at a cold temperature, while the second number indicates the viscosity at operating temperature. At cold temperatures, the polymers are coiled up and allow the oil to flow as their low numbers indicate. As the oil warms up, the polymers begin to unwind into long chains that prevent the oil from thinning as much as it normally would. The result is that at 100 degrees C, (212F) the oil has thinned only as much as the higher viscosity number indicates. Another way of looking at multi-vis oils is to think of a 20W-50 as a 20 weight oil that will not thin more than a 50 weight would when hot.
 
  #49  
Old 01-05-2010, 10:12 PM
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Thanks and sorry for upsetting you. I could have worded my response a little more nicer than the way I responded to you. I think we are on the same page now. I won't comment anymore on this subject. Sorry again, zrxlover.
 
  #50  
Old 01-05-2010, 10:28 PM
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Bud I'd not upset over anything. I just don't want to talk oil. Been there done that.
There are good sites out there to look into it but oil talk gets crazy. Were good!
 
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