Aftermarket heads have a couple of advantages.
The obvious is weight of coarse the alum heads drop a LOT of weight off the nose of a vehicle.
Next you can run approx 1 pt more compression with alum heads over iron heads and still run the same octane fuel. So example you can run 10:1 on pump gas with alum heads fairly easily.

Another example is SOME of the aftermarket heads have revised valve angles etc that make better flow numbers. Also some have revised combustion chambers that are more efficient and usually allow for better port jobs with different port shapes etc.

Also alum is easier to port vs iron.

 

Yeah that's pretty weak for $6000. I'm probably over 300hp with a stock 460 long block, $5 dizzy recurve kit, $30 timing chain set, $75 cam, $75 intake, $260 carb and $300 headers. $745 total.

A while ago, I was going to have a BBF built by a local machinist who has national recognition. He's supposed to be very good. I had a $5000 budget for the build and we spec'ed the build at 514 cubes, IIRC 600+ ft.lbs. of torque and 600+ hp. I dId and do have a set of iron CJ heads that cut the cost, but you get the idea. You should have more for what you paid. (It never got built, unfortunately. He also has the reputation of taking forever to work on your stuff, and he never touched the engine core in about a month. I went another direction.)

 

I would also add, you can fix most any aluninum head. No matter how bad it looks after a valve, piston or something gets smashed into it. If you can get a tig torch or a mig gun into the damaged area, you can usually fix them. Saving your port work that was done and a lot of time & cash.

 

That cars by carl has some pretty badass stuff for 6K. I definitely should have done some more research before taking that engine to the builder. It sounds like aluminum heads are definetely the way to go for a street build I wish I knew that a few years ago. Where do you find a dizzy recurve kit? I think that would be my best answer to tune in the ignition.

 

You do not need aluminum heads for a street truck, ported DOVE's, PI's Or D0OE 429 CJ heads are good base heads.

 

Even D3VE heads for a street driven are good. In fact I prefer them over the D0VE heads due to the ability to keep them pump gas friendly without having to buy huge dish pistons like you do with the early heads. The early heads don't have any real advantage in flow rates over the late model heads especially after porting. The ONLY advantage is in compression due ot the 74cc chambers VS the 95cc of the D3VE heads. But woth a set of D3VE heads, flat top pistons and zero deck your at 9.2:1 compression ratio without even shaving the heads I don't see that as a real advantage. Also since everyone hears D0VE and goes wow they are worth a lot more money where as people will almost give you D3VE heads.

And in a street truck the CJ/SCJ and PI heads are unneccary overkill and a waste of rare, expensive and hard to find parts. Personally for the cost I prefer alum since by the time you buy, setup/rebuild a set of D0OE-R heads with new stainless valves, guides, springs and retainers you have more into them then a set of TFS street heads that will work better.

 

Just go for 700 hp, I have a friend that swears by Promar, they have other choices that are a bit cheaper.


Ford 520CI Big Block 385 Series 725HP 670FT/LBS TQ

Block
460 D9 casting block
Premium core max. No repairs. No sleeves

Cylinder Heads
Edelbrock CJ victor heads
5 angle competition valve job
ARP Head Bolts
Fel Pro Performance Head Gaskets

Valve Train
Comp Cam 275/284 806/763 108 mechanical roller
Comp locks and titanium retainers
Manley 2.190 in 1.760 ex stainless Valves
Comp 1.645 OD Triple springs
Comp Mechanical roller lifters
Billet double roller timing set with Torrington bearing
Comp Pro Magnum Roller rockers
7/16 Screw in Studs and Guide plates
Comp Hardened Push rods
Comp Stud Girdle

Rotating Assembly
JE Forged Pistons 12.8:1 CR
Eagle 4340 Forged Crank
Eagle 4340 H beam rods
Balanced rotation assembly within 1 gram
Speed pro file fit Moly Rings
Clevite H series Bearings
Externally balanced

Intake and Tinware
Edelbrock Super Victor Manifold for Dominator
Professional Products SFI balancer
Milodon Front sump Drag Oil pan
Ford Racing Aluminum Valve covers
New Aluminum Front cover
OE flex Plate
Assembled with all grade 8 hardware.

Dyno testing at an additional fee

No Core Return Required

<TABLE width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top><FORM action=http://ww9.aitsafe.com/cf/add.cfm method=post target=cart><INPUT type=hidden value=2 name=units><INPUT type=hidden value=13999 name=price><INPUT type=hidden value="Ford 520CI Big Block 385 Series 725HP 670FT/LBS TQ" name=product><INPUT type=hidden value=B9141864 name=userid><INPUT type=image alt="All payments are secure!" src="https://www.paypal.com/en_US/i/btn/x-click-but23.gif" border=0 name=submit></FORM></TD><TD vAlign=top width=286>Crate Engine Cost: $13,999
</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

I got mine at a local chain store. Special order, but it was in in two days. Scotty Johnston at Re in "Car" nation has the instructions on how to do it, but if you understand distributor advance systems you can figure it out yourself.

 

I like the D3 heads too just like the C8, C9 & D0's quench a little better. I have a set we are going to set up to use E85.
Still doing some research on it.

What do the PI & SCJ come up for as far as too expensive.
I have a set of each just do not know what to do yet?
Got lucky the PI heads are already done up with triple springs, & a set of new valves in the SCJ's Need some springs.


.

 

D0VEs go for $300 around here and CJ's, rarely seen, go for $750. With the D0VE's if you want them performance prepped you're looking at a MINIMUM of $600 if you do none of the work. $900 at least, then add $450 to the mix on the CJ heads for $1350. You can get a set of aftermarket aluminum heads for $1000 ready to run, and a set of Kaase SCJ's for not a whole lot more then prepped iron CJ heads, at $1900. And the SCJ heads will make a lot more power, and weigh 100 lbs less.

If you're rules limited to iron or really can't squeeze the extra few hundred bucks out of your budget then use the iron heads.

 

We are running the stock class Iron heads, someday I will move up to the P51's

Going with the PI heads for now, Mild .576 cam.

 

Alright, that does it. I want some power again. All of this talk has me pumped to build it. The heads are d3s as we well know, and they are seriously hogged out. If I put some about 11:1 or so pistons and rebalance the engine, install some headers, recurve the dizzy and degree in the cam, what could I expect for power. No stroker kits and the d3 heads. If i run the same cam, rockers, intake, keep my 1407, put a hiflow needle and seat in it, what is a reasonable figure HP?

 

This statement alone has me understanding how little you know about engines.

Be carefull with the service you are provided.

 

Prolly 425 HP get the 3500 stall to feel it...

 

This is what edelbrock recommends to do for higher horsepower applications and mine definetely does drain the float bowls of gas when on the throttle hard. It is leaned down as far as I dare go for a driveable engine and if pulling a hill, it won't even hit 5,000 rpm before the carb is empty and then you back out of the throttle and wait for the bowls to refill then you can nail it again. I set the floats according to the manual and they are a little high since when I let out of the gas around a corner, the gas floods out of the float bowl and the engine sputters and misses until the throttle is opened back up. It definetely needs more gas coming into the carburetor one way or another. Also, what do you mean by be careful with the service you are provided? I don't understand. Also, what recommendations do you have for improving my build, Peganit2. Would it work with what I suggested or do I need to start all over?