6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

How to Fix Your FICM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

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  #106  
Old 08-05-2010, 12:45 PM
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ya i just replaced the icp so hooking up a gauge should be real fun...If it's the hpop,thats what, another 600.00 Canadian,plus something like 20 hrs to change it (or so i heard).....then all the other problems associated with the truck like,head studs ,egr coolers,wire chafing problems...etc etc etc.....think I should sell this thing and take my loss's. I'm a die hard ford guy but I think the next truck is going to be a Dodge. At least I can work on it...these 6.0 and 6.4's are a nightmare to work on...
 
  #107  
Old 08-05-2010, 01:11 PM
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DJ: You are over halfway there now, why quit? Too bad you are in Canada, shipping accross the border is highway robbery in cost alone. If you have help, the hpop can be changed out in one day. then is the possible gasket issue, you would be almost that far down. I would research E=Bay for parts, A new hpop is listed for $399.00 US. or offer. I have a 2006 6.0 I am parting out with 10,300 miles on it. it came out of a total.
 
  #108  
Old 08-05-2010, 01:22 PM
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I have the 2003 model so the hpops are different as well as the way the rails hook up etc...i believe. I know they have that adrenaline hpop but haven't heard to much about the 6.0l version...I was thinking about a possible cummins 12 valve swap...get rid of all this emmisions and electrical crap and have a bullet proof engine....but where does it end? The truck has 240,000km on it...I think it's easier for me to go and make that 1000 dollar payment every month.
 
  #109  
Old 08-05-2010, 05:26 PM
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The one that I am working on is an 03 also, the rails do hook up different, 03- hoses 06- tubes, heads are same, intake and EGRcooler different etc.
 
  #110  
Old 08-06-2010, 09:59 AM
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I just can't see the engine being dusted after using stock filters and such low milage...I drive a rock truck at work that has 3000 hp,7000 ft/lbs of torque,has 16 cylinders and four turbo's on it,runs 365 days a year 24 hrs a day,burns 3800 litres of fuel in 24 hrs,hauls 260 tons of rock up and down mountains (truck it self whieghs 100 tons) etc etc and runs in the dustiest durdiest enviroment known to man...20000 hrs without a rebuild is not uncommon for these engines....so how does one dust a smalll engine like the 6.0l so fast???????
 
  #111  
Old 08-06-2010, 11:41 AM
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to dust an engine you would have to run it for two years without an aircleaner, or normal use with the2003 factory ford defective one. There is a TSB on this somewhere
 
  #112  
Old 12-20-2010, 09:03 PM
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I have another 7-pin ficm question. First off I would like to say Im new to the site & would like to say hello. Im seeing alot of great info on this site, and most of my questions have been answered. But, I was wondering if anyone had a pic of a 7 pin ficm that has the solder points marked. Mine looks a little different then the pics I have seen & are there any marking, letters, numbers, etc.. Thanks guys!!
 
  #113  
Old 08-03-2011, 05:00 AM
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What a great thread and a great site! I'm new to FTE and wanted to say, hi and report my findings after reading this thread. My truck is a 05 F250 6.0 and really wasn't having any problems other than it had been hard to cold start without plugging up blk htr. Long story short, I was getting a code P0611 and after following this thread, I checked the voltage on the 4 pin FICM and it was 48.4 with key on and 33.2 running. I resoldered the 16 connections as described and skipped the small resistors step and rechecked it, still 33.2V running. I took it back out and inspected the connections on the 4 small resistors under lighted high power magnification and could really see nothing wrong. I put a little pressure , prying on all resistors to see if any of them were moving and one came completely off the board. Cold solder joint under the resistor! I resoldered the 4 small resistors , cleaned the 4 bolt holes that are circled in yellow in picture 4 and 5, put it all back together and I am now getting 48.6v with key on and 48.4 with it running. I am a very happy camper now!

I would have never thought of taking on this project without having read this article which I found while doing a Google search.

I am now a Ford Truck Enthusiast subscriber and a HUGE fan!!!!!

Great Info here!
 
  #114  
Old 08-03-2011, 01:21 PM
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First off let me say that I am an eager learner but still a novice when it comes to diesel engines…so take it easy on me ok?

OK one more question about diagnosing a "bad" FICM…are the issues talked about in this thread the only things that go wrong with the FICM?

What I mean is I have had the truck into the local Ford dealership and they told me that my problems are all from a “bad” FICM, but as normal from the dealership they “can’t” tell me what is actually wrong with the FICM. They simply want me to spend $1200 and have them replace it.

I would like to do anything and everything I can on my own to fix it before ordering and installing a new one.

BTW if I do end up ordering a new one do they come with the programming already installed or will I need to get it programmed before I can install it in the truck?
 
  #115  
Old 08-03-2011, 01:45 PM
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New will need to be flashed. Likely included in that estimate from dealership.
 
  #116  
Old 08-03-2011, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod
New will need to be flashed. Likely included in that estimate from dealership.
I would order a new one and a programmer of my own before I give a dealer $1200 for anything...

At that price there's no reason for me not to try fixing it on my own...what's the worst that can happen? As near as I can tell I can't ruin something that is already broken, right?
 
  #117  
Old 08-03-2011, 02:21 PM
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Maybe you could look at it like you have nothing to lose by trying it yourself.

If you're succesful you saved yourself some $$$.

If not, you're looking at the new FICM anyway, and you'll have learned a little about its removal and its guts. Plus you can post more questions to help you out on here.

If you have AAA they'll tow it to the dealership for you if your effort is unsuccessful.

Best of luck!
 
  #118  
Old 08-03-2011, 02:22 PM
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Originally Posted by Splash67
At that price there's no reason for me not to try fixing it on my own...what's the worst that can happen? As near as I can tell I can't ruin something that is already broken, right?
Snap!!
 
  #119  
Old 08-03-2011, 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Piolet
Snap!!
YUP!!!

And for some reason I get more satisfation from the fixing and or breaking of things all by myself rather than just blindly following the orders of a dealer and letting them take my money ...

Time to get a little dirt under my fingernails and a lot more knowledge into this little head of mine!

Thanks for the help and encouragement!
 
  #120  
Old 08-25-2011, 11:20 PM
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hello, just wanted to thank everyone for the insight. I am going to tackle this task tomorrow. Hopefully all goes well.

I looked at the threads the other day regarding removing and cleaning my EGR valve and everthing went fabulous.

Thanks again!
 


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