6.4L Power Stroke Diesel Engine fitted to 2008 - 2010 F250, F350 and F450 pickup trucks and F350 + Cab Chassis

places where coolant could leak into engine?

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  #16  
Old 11-26-2009, 07:36 AM
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This post has got me nervous. I had the raditator replaced in July. I added fluid twice since. About 13,000 miles since radiator. It dropped to Venturi Tee level after the first add of fluid this past fall.
I got an appointment next Thur. at dealer.
 
  #17  
Old 02-12-2010, 08:11 PM
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Well after 2 radiators,venturi tee, thermostat,egr coolers they want to remove the front cover and also check the thermostat again because after all this it still puked out coolant on me.
 
  #18  
Old 02-12-2010, 09:49 PM
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hey cheezit is there a tsb for the updated bottle cause this happened to me when they did the t-stats and water pump it had to go back in for a bleed system.

Also knowing what you know, would you own the 6.4 or update to the new unknown 6.7L is the 6.4 going to be a on going maintenance project. just wondering what i should do

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Originally Posted by cheezit
well you are half right. There is a cavatation problem that is happing to the front covers like I have stated.
The reason that is currently suspected is a t-stat problem and ford is claiming this is causing radiators,front covers and oil coolers to fail.
I have my doubts about this theory. Ive seen to many with ok t-stats for this to be the case. Im not an engineer so I could be way wrong on this. The porblem looks more to be caused by excessive flow rate to me. Do you know why the 6.4 has 2 t-stats in it? its because one was getting blowen open durring testing so they had to add a second. I also find it very odd that every single radiator that I have replaced is failed in the same spot always the drives side that leaks. There is also an updated degas bottle that has been designed to reduce the possibility if air in the system. It will be interesting to see when they get to the bottom of the concern. I wonder how much more effort they will really put in as the 6.7 is due out and Im sure it will have some issues too.
also radiators just came off back order again.
Its pretty hard to mess up a front cover install on that engine. Its a simple and stright forward job.... then again Ive see people screw up some stuff that you wouldnt belive.
 
  #19  
Old 02-12-2010, 09:52 PM
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no tsb for the new tank sorry.
would I own a 6.4.... emmmmm ....emmmmm.emmmmmm NO
I dont have anything to say about the 6.7 as of yet. Ill I have seen is speculation because i dont belive much of what I read.
I will be going to school on it the end of the month so we will see.

I am happy with my stock 6.0. and would not want a 7.3 either.
 
  #20  
Old 02-12-2010, 10:25 PM
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Well after buying coolant and bringing my level up above the tee outlet, my coolant level finally stays there, where before it would slowly gravitate to the tee outlet. The reason? Well, I noticed I could take off the cap to the degas bottle without any spewing, so I squeezed the radiator hose. Little to no pressure. I mean there was some, but not alot. I can't find any leaks, but with pressure not building up that's probably got something to do with it. I've got bad batteries and coolant issues, so Monday she's going to the Dr. I just hope its nothing real serious, money is tight right now. Plus I need my baby because its been snowing like crazy up here. I'm thinking of going to the Dr. myself and getting something for my nerves. I love my truck, and bought it because diesels last so long and all the hoopla over the release of the 6.4 and all the millions of miles they supposedly put on these gave me a false sense of security. Maybe I should have waited.
 
  #21  
Old 02-12-2010, 10:54 PM
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i hear ya harber, i just dont understand it either how they could say the millions of miles to get it to perfection and then this...
but then on the other hand they say they only tested the 6.7 to 250k and thats enough its solid till 250k work done now buy em up....

im confused, all i know is that since a few threads started on coolant/no heat/puking thread it has brought alot of poeple to look at there coolant and whats going on with it.
 
  #22  
Old 02-13-2010, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by cheezit
no tsb for the new tank sorry.
would I own a 6.4.... emmmmm ....emmmmm.emmmmmm NO
I dont have anything to say about the 6.7 as of yet. Ill I have seen is speculation because i dont belive much of what I read.
I will be going to school on it the end of the month so we will see.

I am happy with my stock 6.0. and would not want a 7.3 either.
Tell us a little more about this cavitation problem. Can it cause the system to puke? I got my Blackstone report back Jan. 20 and they said no coolant in oil. Can I still have damage? Is every 6.4 destined for cavitation or is it only because of flow coolant levels due to leaks,etc.
Would a updated degas bottle help in the long run?
 
  #23  
Old 02-23-2010, 05:27 PM
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Got the truck back today from dealer. They found the waterpump was hitting the cover. This was the cause they said of the pukeing out threw degas bottle. I'll know by Wed. night cause I'm going on a trip.
 
  #24  
Old 02-23-2010, 06:19 PM
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Strange diagnosis for the cause but we will see. I would think that would cause a failure of the water pump period.
 
  #25  
Old 03-02-2010, 09:49 PM
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Good Posts here

I wanted to add to this post about coolant in oil and oil in coolant. I have found many of the front engine covers having problems, from corrosion to pieces missing. All of the front cover concerns have caused coolant in oil. The oil in coolant is coming from failures from the oil cooler. Most of the time it is because of the debri from the front cover. As for the EGR coolers, the cooler will only engest coolant into the intake and cylinders. Here are come pictures of the damage.





 
  #26  
Old 03-03-2010, 05:34 AM
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Thanks
My tech said to keep the coolant of degas bottle up to cold min mark for now. When I got it back from him it was there but after a trip it went down to Venturi tee and hasn't come back plus I found som on the outside of bottle. He said it might have been air. But I fear the worse. I will do an oil anyalisis every change from now on.
 
  #27  
Old 03-06-2010, 09:47 AM
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Man, all of this talk about worn covers, leaky coolers, etc... has me seriously thinking about unloading my 6.4 for the damn payoff value before it's too late!

I still have my 7.3 AND I still think about sinking money into it to put it in top shape again... I love the power and smoothness of the 6.4, but hate to hear of all of the problems...
 
  #28  
Old 03-08-2010, 08:06 PM
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I understand

Originally Posted by John7894
Man, all of this talk about worn covers, leaky coolers, etc... has me seriously thinking about unloading my 6.4 for the damn payoff value before it's too late!

I still have my 7.3 AND I still think about sinking money into it to put it in top shape again... I love the power and smoothness of the 6.4, but hate to hear of all of the problems...
I understand your concern and here's a tip. All of these cooling concerns have been caused by the coolant and what is added to the system in shops. If you have to add any coolant, only use distilled water and Ford gold coolant. If you add tap water of any kind, it mixes with the iron in the block causing the corrosion. It's actually not eating through the covers, it is conducting an electrical current because of the turbulence behind the water pump impeller. This electrical charge is corroding the aluminum. They key is use distilled water/gold coolant with a 50/50mix. Do not add green coolant or any other kinds. They do not mix and can produce a similar effect.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
 
  #29  
Old 03-08-2010, 09:09 PM
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Thanks. I've been adding the right stuff.

FWIW, I found my venturi tee was on backwards. The engine and radiator sides were swapped. I corrected that and it seems like it doesn't leak as much.

Someone said there was a valve in the venturi tee? Maybe something couldn't flow the right way and caused some pressure to build up.
 
  #30  
Old 03-09-2010, 10:02 AM
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Venturi Tee

Originally Posted by John7894
Thanks. I've been adding the right stuff.

FWIW, I found my venturi tee was on backwards. The engine and radiator sides were swapped. I corrected that and it seems like it doesn't leak as much.

Someone said there was a valve in the venturi tee? Maybe something couldn't flow the right way and caused some pressure to build up.

The ventire tee is just a channeled orfice to direct coolant flow. Having it installed incorrectly could have cause a problem as well. I'm glad you figured that part out. Attached will be a picture of the venturi tee to show how it works.
Rusty


 


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