7.5L Ford 460 Oil Cooler Heat Exchanger Failure

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  #31  
Old 05-20-2010, 05:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Shawn63200
BPM, have you changed yours? I am trying to decide which way to go with mine. The filter reloactor from Ford doesn't look like it will move the filter far enough forward for the crossmember, but maybe it will. For the few extra dollars, I kind of like being able to fully remote mount it wherever. Especially for the safety of the filter in a 4x4 like mine.

Could a person not just run the new lower radiator hose to bypass it and just cap the coolant ports, thus just having the oil filter relocated yet, but not having any chance of the coolant getting in the oil or vice versa??
You might be able to weld them closed and go that route, just remember that oil does not like coolant hoses. I still have not made it to the junkyard to find one off a truck that did not have the cooler (they are more common too). I have only put about 3500 miles on my setup, but am driving it right now. If you use the remote setup like mine, buy adapter fittings and convert it to JIC thread, and use high temp hose (how hot does that oil really get?). I am concerned that my hoses temp range (Gates 1/2 inch megaflex) is not high enough.

Brian
 
  #32  
Old 05-26-2010, 02:07 PM
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Thanks for the info and pics,,have a 92 f53 with this factory oil/water cooler,always wondered if it could burst internally now i know it does happen,,i am going to do this conversion,the F53 uses a different radiator gonna have fun looking for the right hose thanks again!!!
 
  #33  
Old 11-05-2010, 07:22 AM
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Brian,

I am thinking of doing the same setup on my mud truck. I noticed alot of oil around my oil cooler lately, so If I have to remove it, I want to bypass it all together. I was wondering why the JIC fittings versus leaving it half inch pipe swival? I have 1/2 gates megahose at work, I will see if I can get a temp range for you.

Rich
 
  #34  
Old 11-06-2010, 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by monstertrucker
Brian,

I am thinking of doing the same setup on my mud truck. I noticed alot of oil around my oil cooler lately, so If I have to remove it, I want to bypass it all together. I was wondering why the JIC fittings versus leaving it half inch pipe swival? I have 1/2 gates megahose at work, I will see if I can get a temp range for you.

Rich
I used megaflex (Gates), I have used swivel pipe fittings (G25105-0808) before, but on mine I did it in a hack of a way...I have fixed pipe ends (G25100-0808) at the engine, and fixed (G25100-0608) at the filter (3/8 pipe thread at the filter on my kit). The hack part comes in here, I split the hose in the middle and put in a JIC male (G25165-0808) and a JIC Female (G25170-0808). I have not checked it out in a while, but have been using it without problems since install. Gates makes a push on hose that will take a higher temp, and I will eventually switch to that.


Brian
 
  #35  
Old 11-07-2010, 05:53 PM
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Thanks for the reply Brian. I use the same hoses and crimp fittings at my work (CarQuest). I have not gotten a chance to fab my setup yet . I am
going to use a Hayden kit #77023. I am also going to use a Wix (CarQuest no.85773) oil filter which is listed as a 2qt Ford Filter. I however, doubt it is a true 2qt filter, since it is less than half the 85515 filter length longer. I found a hi flow oil filter adapter for the block for around $20 online. I also plan on switching to synthetic oil . Hopefully with the larger filter and synthetic oil, I shouldn't have to run a oil cooler.

Rich
 
  #36  
Old 02-24-2011, 04:07 PM
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im rebuilding a 460 that has a box style oil cooler right next to the water pump. how practical r these and how good do they work? ive never seen this style and its so cramped with the water pump and def. the oil pressure switch.
 
  #37  
Old 02-24-2011, 10:36 PM
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Thanks for keeping my thread alive! It is a worthwhile modification.
 
  #38  
Old 04-20-2011, 06:24 PM
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thanks guys. i was going nuts trying to figure out how to install the cooler hose after i did a flush.
 
  #39  
Old 04-30-2011, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by F350JOHN
Thanks for keeping my thread alive! It is a worthwhile modification.
Agree, great mod. I had an antifreeze leak I fixed with it 2 years ago and its worked well ever since.
 
  #40  
Old 05-07-2011, 07:40 PM
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Great Info!! Thanks... I have my 1996 F350 4x4 Crew Cab 460 V-8 partially apart right now trying to replace the darn lower radiator hose from water pump to oil cooler. I cannot believe I am going to have to remove the water pump or the oil cooler!!!!! Just a ittle more clearance and the hose could be replaced like any other hose. STUPID FORD ENGINEERING DEPARTMENT..... The reason I am doing this is because my tranny fluid cooler internal to the original radiator gave out and mixed tranny fluid with coolant.... NOT GOOD. I know for a fact that it happened in the last 700 miles but when?? And I am worried sick anbout the tranny.... Only 100,105 miles on the truck, brand new tranny installed at 65,000 miles due to early model E4OD seizing up on me.... So, I see yor engine oil cooler mods. I do not want to mix coolant and engine oil. So now I am confused and worried about this and am thinking that maybe I will jerk the oil cooler and use a kit with no cooler as you guys are doing. I live in AZ where ambient gets 118 degrees and road temps are 180+ coming from the asphalt during the summer. So I am a bit worried from that point of view. Decisions. Decisions. Any thoughts?? I think I am going to stop and leave the truck sit for a few days while I ponder my thoughts and new direction....... Thanks for any thoughts that you might have!
 
  #41  
Old 05-08-2011, 12:23 PM
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I have decided to buy the lower rad hose that you guys referenced for 1990 F250/351 and get everything hooked up again but bypass this oil cooler and just leave it in place for the moment. I need to get my tranny circulating and change that fluid out a few times to save the tranny. Meanwhile I'll figure out what I want to do. I am seriously considering the Ford Racing adapter #M-6880-A50 and totally removing the oil cooler. I don't really pull anything with it and it is hardly ever loaded down. Just basically a "driver"..... But I am still interested in your opinions and thoughts, and what did you end up doing with your truck in the long run? I need to make a permanent decision eventually....
 
  #42  
Old 05-10-2011, 09:42 PM
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On mine I have not changed anything. I am using custom made hydraulic hoses with a remote mount filter. I have looked at the ford motorsport setup, it has 1 flaw, it can let the filter drop down (nothing indexes it and keeps it in place like the oe setup. I would like to find the oe part number for the version without the cooler, because that would locate everything properly.
 
  #43  
Old 05-10-2011, 10:58 PM
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BPM: Good info. I prefer to get the part that indexes too. I was wondering about the filter arm rotating, especially while out on dirt roads hunting etc. Not the problem that I need. Maybe I'll go to a junk yard and get one......
 
  #44  
Old 05-10-2011, 11:03 PM
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Well things don't work out like I want them to. For anyone else thinking about making this change before you mix oil and water, I can't just use the early model radiator hose and leave the stock oil cooler in place because the oil filter on the oil cooler is in the way of the radiator hose. Murphy's law is definitely shining here. Unbelievable. So I am taking the oil cooler loose to get the stock hose replaced until I buy the other parts. I will come back to this, because I don't want oil and water mixing. This engine is super strong and uses NO oil between changes with 100,000 miles on it. I still dislike this engine oil cooler design for replacing the radiator hose. What an engineering mistake!
 
  #45  
Old 12-01-2011, 09:00 PM
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Thanks for the Info. It was very usefull. I had the same problem today and decided I was gonna beat it my own way. I just drilled the factory adapter for AN8 and am making a hard line to go between. I have a remote oil cooler on my VW and the hoses just dont last very long. I have use many different lines and it always comes down to Parker Press lock High temp lines.

Any reason this wont work.? I'm in it ZERO $ besides the fittings that I already had.
 


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