7.5L Ford 460 Oil Cooler Heat Exchanger Failure
#226
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: West Central Southern MN
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#227
if you tow, go on long distance drives, haul with this, or daily commutes involve grades then the more you cool the oil the less oil changes, the less oil filters you will need and the less overall maintenance and longevity you will get out of this engine. i have a 18" by 30" and noticed significant drop, but still to hot of oil going back to engine. so next step is to go bigger.
i like the 460 contrary to most but not stock. i currently have 4 or 5 pickups with these engines and a spare on hand in case. i work and max these engine out, but they keep on giving with little to no maintenance. except for the typically spark plug that fails when ever engine gets hot. i have lost 2 on 1 side and 1 on the other going up hill, but even on 3 dead cylinders it still climb pulling 4 tons.
i got a pickup that's getting a 460 swapped out for maintenance, but in the process putting in a efi controller and a 7.3 idi radiator as they will fit ironically. 4x the cooling capacity and putting a 4x4 oil cooler, seeing what kind of mileage i squeeze out, so far at 15, but should be closer to 20 when done. and that's towing mid size loads. controlling the a controller for these engines, which runs $1500 Canadian, $900 us. it basically is a plug and play, so more uniform injections and the ability to custom tune much like a modern vehicle can be. but without environmental restrictions. i can put on over 10k miles a month so i get what i can out of fuel.
i like the 460 contrary to most but not stock. i currently have 4 or 5 pickups with these engines and a spare on hand in case. i work and max these engine out, but they keep on giving with little to no maintenance. except for the typically spark plug that fails when ever engine gets hot. i have lost 2 on 1 side and 1 on the other going up hill, but even on 3 dead cylinders it still climb pulling 4 tons.
i got a pickup that's getting a 460 swapped out for maintenance, but in the process putting in a efi controller and a 7.3 idi radiator as they will fit ironically. 4x the cooling capacity and putting a 4x4 oil cooler, seeing what kind of mileage i squeeze out, so far at 15, but should be closer to 20 when done. and that's towing mid size loads. controlling the a controller for these engines, which runs $1500 Canadian, $900 us. it basically is a plug and play, so more uniform injections and the ability to custom tune much like a modern vehicle can be. but without environmental restrictions. i can put on over 10k miles a month so i get what i can out of fuel.
#228
i haven't tried a 7.3 radiator in a 460 but going to switch all to them. a good radiator stock size for a 460 4 core is $300. the 6.9/7.3 is $600. being they keep a 7.3 engine around 130 degrees so there fairly efficient. i run a 4 core currently in 460's and it helps keep cool but needs more. the difference between the 2 radiators is that the 6.9 and 7.3 has 2 sizes, stock and tall. the tall is the one i have in my 7.3 ford. the stock is the same thing i have in 460. the other is the way the fins and tubes are positioned. which is why overall the 6.9/7.3 radiator is a better design. there are stock houses for the 7.3 and 460 that can make connections. as far as core support goes, its either cut out and weld or go to a salvage and get a 7.3 or 6.9 81 thru 92. the bolt pattern for body didn't change much from 81 to 96 just shape of fenders. 8 mill and 10 mill sockets both most common.
cbbakker,
i am at 7 quarts of oil. but only get 5 to 6 out on a oil change. unless on a hill. with larger size going to be near 8 to 9 quarts. and the way i have everything set, its pre primed when engine starts which is nice.
#229
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#230
[QUOTE=cbakker;16273923]How did you accomplish that?
OK so post didn't post, editing.
by accident, between 3/4 oil lines and oil cooler.
the oil filter sits under coolant tank. the hose from engine is 2ft roughly. the oil drains back in this. but ahead in the cooler and return lines theres about a quart and a half. also any oil that cant drain thru engine, cant drain back because of the setup i have so theres a minor amount trapped already. when i go to start, i see a immediate jump in pressure 10 to 20 psi on 1st crank average. where as before there was a minor delay of to up to 3 seconds. i also am running a high flow oil pump. its minor, but will make a difference long term.
OK so post didn't post, editing.
by accident, between 3/4 oil lines and oil cooler.
the oil filter sits under coolant tank. the hose from engine is 2ft roughly. the oil drains back in this. but ahead in the cooler and return lines theres about a quart and a half. also any oil that cant drain thru engine, cant drain back because of the setup i have so theres a minor amount trapped already. when i go to start, i see a immediate jump in pressure 10 to 20 psi on 1st crank average. where as before there was a minor delay of to up to 3 seconds. i also am running a high flow oil pump. its minor, but will make a difference long term.
Last edited by ranch-verteran; 05-10-2016 at 10:49 AM. Reason: nothing came up when posted, blank
#231
#232
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Back to the oil cooler talk.
I ended up ordering the Derale 15451 kit, because the CXRacing kit only came with the M20 filter adapter. It is pretty similar to some of the setups used by other guys in this thread. I'm not crazy about the 1/2" pipe thread ports, or the barbed hose fittings. I plan on giving them a try, and switching to hydraulic hose with AN fittings, when time allows.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...obalID=EBAY-US
For $108 shipped and ~$10 for the block to filter adapter, I can afford to spend more on good hoses and wasting time to figure out mounting brackets for the cooler.
I ended up ordering the Derale 15451 kit, because the CXRacing kit only came with the M20 filter adapter. It is pretty similar to some of the setups used by other guys in this thread. I'm not crazy about the 1/2" pipe thread ports, or the barbed hose fittings. I plan on giving them a try, and switching to hydraulic hose with AN fittings, when time allows.
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item...obalID=EBAY-US
For $108 shipped and ~$10 for the block to filter adapter, I can afford to spend more on good hoses and wasting time to figure out mounting brackets for the cooler.
#233
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#235
If you buy a NBH 902 hose reducer from NAPA, it will take the 1.75" water pump inlet nipple up to 2" allowing the 1983-early 1990 hose to be used.
#237
I deleted my oil cooler today. The Motorcraft KM-1662 lower hose worked perfectly for me. My truck has the original water pump and it has a larger neck than the reman pump I have on the shelf. The original pump neck is 1.96" and the ID of the motorcraft hose at the water pump end is 1.89". The reman water pump neck is 1.753". I tried the 351 hose first and it would have to stretch a bit to fit my pump, but would work with the reman pump. I used the Ford racing 90* adapter and an e-bay BBF/C/M filter nipple.
First pic is the factory oil cooler vs the adapter off of an 80's truck. Both share the same bolt threads, if you wanted to go that way. However, the bolt on the 80's unit uses a NLA gasket, instead of an o-ring like the factory cooler.
First pic is the factory oil cooler vs the adapter off of an 80's truck. Both share the same bolt threads, if you wanted to go that way. However, the bolt on the 80's unit uses a NLA gasket, instead of an o-ring like the factory cooler.
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#238
Nicely done! I am very familiar with that NLA gasket, one of it's issues is tending to loosen on it's own as the weight of the filter wants to turn the assembly counter-clockwise. Apparently, either your truck is an early water to oil system, or the pump was changed previously. Interestingly enough, many aftermarket sources list the early pump through 1991.
#240
Ok, I used a NAPA NBH902 huse bushing to allow a 1983-early 1990 lower hose to fit on the later (1994-97) pump on my new engine. See this section: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16205735