My bad! It's Parker 293 hose, not stratoflex.

 

so i have read most of these posts and it seems no one has done what i have so i am lost. i know the oil cooler is there but haven't had a chance to take it out and going to remove it now that i am replacing the timing chain. i added a ams oil duel filter kit and a large oil cooler with 3/4 tubes that i mounted on the front. the oil comes from the old filter location to the twin then on to the cooler and then back to the return line. if i recal the lines are 1/2 or 3/4 cant remember.
i see alot of post on where to put a filter, 1 filter is hard and 2 is impossible. underneath the coolant and windshield washer fluid tank there is a space. cut the plastic inner fender about 8 inches up from the bottom corner. this will allow for oversize filters even. i can run diesel or heavy truck filters with no problem. make sure the tire is turned left. i have a piece of bailer belting that i was going to mount to protect the filters but it turns out it didnt need it. problem solved.

so what would i do with the old cooler box and oil lines? should i cap them or should i redo all my lines?

 

You should be able to remove the original cooler and use your remote adapter right to the block. Depending on how it attaches in place of the oil filter, you might have to get the filter nipple listed in this thread from Ford. You can either use the 351W lower hose someone has referenced or use a pre-1990 460 lower hose.

 

There are more options as far as where to mount the filter(s) once you realize you don't have to mount them vertically. The oil is pushed through the filter(s) under pressure so they can be tilted or even mounted upside-down, though it may cause a bit of a mess changing them if you mount them in an awkward position.

I mounted mine horizontally under the radiator to the lower support bracket, facing forward so they can cool. When I do an oil change I put a pan underneath to catch the spill, I loosen them just enough to drain first before spinning them all the way off.



In this pic you can see where the hoses hang down uncomfortably close to the steering linkage (circled in white):



... so I used a couple zipties to hold them up out of the way. If I had cut the hoses a bit shorter it wouldn't have been an issue.

 

Has anybody tried hydrualic hose yet with swivel fittings? This is my plan, but I have a few reservations before trying it.

Even if we can fit 5/8 line through the crossmember cutout, will the fittings for that hose work, or do they need to be adapted?

It may have been mentioned before, but what size are the adapters tapped for on the various kits?

If the adapters are necked down to a -8 or -6, there is no use trying to use a -10 hose. Any way to open them up?

 

so would i eliminate the original oil filter housing and just go directly to the block?

for hose and fittings i used hydraulic fittings.

i know there are many places to mount filters, but underneath the core support isn't a option as this is a ranch pickup. anywhere below or on the frame wouldn't work for me. and there are no roads where i go sometimes, just boulders and gopher hills. 1 hole or hill and the frame drags and there goes the filters. i also dont need a oil pan to change filters.

 

Yes, the adapter mounts directly to the block. After removing the whole heat exchanger/oil cooler unit you will see a round flat surface with a threaded hole in the center on the engine block. You will probably need the oil filter insert Ford PN# F1AZ-6890-B from the dealership which fits in the center hole, the adapter is threaded to fit the insert.



Actually the dual filters are much higher than they look in the pics due to the camera angle, but of course you should mount them whereever it works best for you.

 

The actual lines Ford used in pre-1990 have a swivel fitting in the center of them.

 

I put 1/2" stratoflex on the pressure side and 5/8" stratoflex on the return side. The pressure side fitting is -8 JIC to 1/2" pipe and the return side is -10 JIC to 1/2" pipe. Stratoflex is hydraulic hose per say, but it's not like what you will generally find at the parts store. This hose has a pressure rating of 350psi and is quite flexible. It has a single wire braid inside and a abrasion resistant cover outside. Regular hydraulic hose has a 2 wire braid and is stiff. That makes it hard to route around tight places. As far as the adapters, most are tapped 1/2" pipe, but some are 3/8" pipe.

 

I'm interested in the Stratoflex stuff too. Why a smaller input and bigger return? What does that do for it?

I mounted mine behind the front bumper for now on the driver side. I'll take pics tonight. The hoses are also routed like yours CircleRat, which as well I feel nervous about them being so close to the linkage. Tried to run them inside the frame, but the bracket that is in there for the power steering pump is too big and I didn't want to squash the hoses to pass them through.

ALSO, because I didn't see it anywhere in here, you're going to need a deep well 1 1/4" socket to get that center adapter off the block. I used that and an impact gun on a low setting and just pulsed it until it came off which took little to no effort at all. Then an 11 or 12mm allen wrench will get the new one on. I only had a 10 and it worked ok, but was too small for some serious torque down.

I have dual PH8 Fram filters but not sure if I'll stay with those or not. It was just to get the thing changed out and they were on sale with the oil.

 

1/2" pressure side and 5/8" return side. The theory is that you can get plenty of oil thru the 1/2" hose because it is under pressure. The 5/8" return allows free-er flow back to the block because the filters are robbing some pressure. This theory could just be all wet cause really both sides should be pressurized the same to some extent. I really don't know if the return side goes back to sump or not. I have never researched it, all I know is it works for me. Others have the same size hoses and it works fine for them. Does look unique, though......

 

Thank you for the clarification.

 

i got the part number listed above from ford, it doesnt thread into my block or adapter. so now i got to figure something else out. Any ideas helpful. should i get a machine shop to make one? i know 1 thing and i am never going to get another 460 that's made between 94 and 97. none of the parts numbers have been correct so far.

 

Is this the part you got from Ford (as shown in the first post by F350JOHN):

 

If he did, that's the one for the actual spin-on filter.