I knew my ball joints were probably shot. Ford took a look and said that the idler arms were worn also (I'm going to assume that they mean "Pitman Arm" so correct me if I'm wrong).

Is it also worthwhile to replace the upper control arm at the same time?

Thanks,

RG

 

There is only one idler arm. Replacing the upper ball joints involves replacing the control arms as they are one unit, at least they are on my 99.

 

< There is only one idler arm. >

Per side, you mean I'm guessing.

I'm with you on the control arm and upper ball joint. Did I get all the parts? Are there any other bushings?

RG

 

Nope, only 1 idler arm, it's on the passenger side, you'll see it connected to the center link just inside of where the inner tie rod connects, and it's bolted to the inside of the frame. You could reuse the old bushings for the upper control arms if they look good, but since you got it apart the "might as well" syndrome seems to kick in (at least it does with me). Are they telling you that all 4 ball joints are bad ? If so I'd suggest getting a different opinion if I were you because I'd find it highly unlikely they've all failed. If you do replace the uppers/control arms, I believe the Moog brand are made so you can replace the ball joints without having to replace the control arms next time. Oh, and welcome to the FTE forum

 

< Oh, and welcome to the FTE forum >
Thank you very much!

< Nope, only 1 idler arm, it's on the passenger side >
Ah. The write-up does say "Replace idler arm". Is this the same as the Pitman Arm?

< You could reuse the old bushings for the upper control arms if they look good, but since you got it apart the "might as well" syndrome seems to kick in ... I'd find it highly unlikely they've all failed. >
I'm definitely a "replace it while I'm at it" guy. The cost isn't prohibitive since I can do the work myself ... with neighborhood mechanics close by to provide encouragement and sarcastic comments.

< I believe the Moog brand are made ... >
Sounds good.

 

The pitman arm is the linkage that's attached to the steering gear box (different than the idler arm).

 

Here's how Wikipedia describes each of them which will probably make more sense to you than my description.

Pitman arm

The Pitman arm is a steering component in an automobile or truck.
The Pitman arm is a linkage attached to the steering gear (see recirculating ball) sector shaft, that converts the angular motion of the sector shaft into the linear motion needed to steer the wheels. The Pitman arm is supported by the sector shaft and supports the drag link or center link with a ball joint. It transmits the motion it receives from the steering box into the drag (or center) link, causing it to move left or right to turn the wheels in the appropriate direction. The idler arm is attached between the opposite side of the center link from the Pitman arm and the vehicle's frame to hold the center or drag link at the proper height. A bad pitman arm can cause play in the steering, and may get worse over time.

Idler arm

On an automobile or truck with conventional parallelogram steering, the Idler Arm or idler arm assembly is a pivoting support for the steering linkage.
The idler arm consists of a rod which pivots on a bracket attached to the frame of the vehicle on one end and supports a ball joint on the other end. Generally, an idler arm is attached between the opposite side of the center link from the Pitman arm and the vehicle's frame to hold the center link at the proper height. Idler arms are generally more vulnerable to wear than Pitman arms because of the pivot function built into them. If the idler arm is fitted with grease fittings, these should be lubricated with a grease gun at each oil change.

 

< The pitman arm is different than the idler arm. >
Excellent.

Do you know if it's routine for the pitman arm to wear? Would checking for looseness be standard procedure?

 

I'm sure eventually they'll wear out. I've never had to replace one myself. If they are worn out you'd feel some play in your steering. If your steering is tight then I'd say it's probably fine. You could check it by looking for looseness at the joint where it connects to the center link.

 

A friend just sent me a list saying "While you're down there ..."

Lower ball joints (2)
Upper control arms with ball joints (2)
Right inner tie rod end
Left inner tie rod end
Right outer tie rod end
Left outer tie rod end
Idler arm

He also said that acentrics aren't a bad idea. He said that an alignment shop would really be the only ones to tell me if they were needed.

 

Well, in that case you're basically doing a whole new front end, so it sounds like you've got your work cut out for you. I personally would only replace the components that are bad, but that's up to you. You'll need some special tools such as a pickle fork for the tie rods and idler arm, and a ball joint press to remove and reinstall the lower ball joints. I'm sure you already know this, but get an alinement right away when you're done.

 

Welcome to the site RG. Not sure what year the truck is but I might have some of the parts on our site you need. If you need any help just shoot me a PM.

Tony

 

Ok... never done this, but if a person wanted to do this on his own.... is this that hard to change all the ends. Upper & lower ball joints were already done by a shop.

Oh... big question is, does truck have to be jacked up...not just on ramps ? or will it collapse on my old a$$ when I pull off a rod ??

Right inner tie rod end, Left inner tie rod end, Right outer tie rod end, Left outer tie rod end, Idler arm end.... figure if I do them all, I'll be " in the home " by the time all those need done again. lol

 

You can change out your inner and outer tie rods and the idler arm with it up on ramps, it won't collapse on you. You'll need some tools, mainly a good pickle fork and I'd suggest a 5 lb hammer, and of course the assorted wrenches and sockets. There's a panel in the front below the radiator that you'll want to pull of that'll give you better access to the idler arm. I recently changed out the wife's inner tie rods and idler arm and did it on my lift shown here, which is basically the same as on ramps but much nicer (no crawling around on the ground). While your at it you might consider doing your pitman arm also since you're doing everything else.

 

Thanks... I just didn't want to take loose something and have it all down on me...lol I replaced the suspension links last week, and thought, well, I could do all that other up front too.

Your picture reminded me of a mishap at the tire center I used to use in Mobile, AL.
The shop had just had another lift installed and my 1995, F350 just happened to be the first heavy truck lifted on it.
I looked up and noticed they had a problem... the front right side hydraulic lift hung up when they were trying to bring the truck back down.
After a few minutes, the owner came in from the shop and tells me " uh Bill, we got a problem... " ( I had been a customer probably 10 years )
I just laughed.... " No man.... you got a problem... because if you don't get my truck down, I'm driving YOUR NEW 2008 F350 home tonight ! "

Unfortunately.... they got my truck to the ground later.....