Originally Posted by 1968F250429

Awesome, I'll double check my plug and make sure everything jives like yours. Hopefully I'll have mine back next month from paint, if I'm lucky. Lol
now I just need to figure out who I'm going to send the tachometer and vacuum gauges in to be re done and have tach conversion to electric. Anyone whose had this done have any good suggestions on who to use? Thanks

Originally Posted by MotorDog

Okay. Let's start with a little bit of troubleshooting on the temp gauge. There is only one sending unit and yours should be the right one. If you have about 6 volts of power at the wire at the temp sending unit, then you only need to ground that wire and if the sending unit is good, the temp gauge will peg to the hot side. No power....find the problem. Power but when grounding the wire the temp gauge doesn't peg to the hot, you probably need a new sending unit. But it could be the gauge. Gauges don't often fail so assume the sending unit first and replace it. NAPA has them for about $7.00. Make sure the temp sending unit is installed without gasket cement or teflon tape. You must have a good ground on the threads. It is brass to cast so it will seal and not leak without any gasket cement.

Oil Pressure gauge --- use the same procedure as above. Check for 6 volts of power at the wire and if there, ground the wire and the gauge should peg to the high side. You will need a NEW sending Unit because your old one is for the "Light." Get a sending unit for the gauge set up for your truck and replace it and it should be working. Here again, NAPA sells these and they are the same for all the Ford trucks for 71. If it doesn't work, use the same trouble shooting procedures as above.

Amp meter.....Well, now comes the stuff. Let me say first, if the ampmeter was working as it should, you would hardly if ever see it moving----in either direction. They aren't designed to work worth a crap to begin worth. Here's a workaround that I would use at least temporarily. At the bottom of your Vacuum gauge is a nice little light which originally was hooked up with a buzzer in the big trucks with a vacuum over hydraulic brake system, (hydrovac system). This light would light and the buzzer would ring when you were out of vacuum. They have a vacuum tank, (reservoir), to store vacuum to operate the brakes a couple of times in an emergency when the engine is NOT running. Run your Amp light wire over to this light and connect it and use it for the Amp meter "idiot light" instead and you don't even have to wire up the ampmeter. It will still be working with the new red light at the bottom of the Vacuum gauge just like it worked before. To completely wire in an amp meter is a pain. You can check on another site that sounds like a pornographic word and they have a complete write up for installing an amp meter. Lots of work and the needle doesn't deflect more than about .050 when and if it moves at all. I would use the "fix" but if you want to wire it in, check out these instructions and follow them and wire it up.

Fuel gauge or gauges.....well again, first check for power to the sending unit. That other site I mentioned, (ford i f i c a tion. c o m), also has a great tech write up that addresses the complete ways to get your fuel gauges to work. You aren't really very far from having it done......keep it up. Hope I have helped a little. It seems as soon as you get the temp and oil pressure working all begins to be well.

If you have the signal indicator lights working, then your High Beam Light should also be working. You are getting close. Let me know how it all comes out. Regards!

Originally Posted by MotorDog

Okay. Let's start with a little bit of troubleshooting on the temp gauge. There is only one sending unit and yours should be the right one. If you have about 6 volts of power at the wire at the temp sending unit, then you only need to ground that wire and if the sending unit is good, the temp gauge will peg to the hot side. No power....find the problem. Power but when grounding the wire the temp gauge doesn't peg to the hot, you probably need a new sending unit. But it could be the gauge. Gauges don't often fail so assume the sending unit first and replace it. NAPA has them for about $7.00. Make sure the temp sending unit is installed without gasket cement or teflon tape. You must have a good ground on the threads. It is brass to cast so it will seal and not leak without any gasket cement.

Oil Pressure gauge --- use the same procedure as above. Check for 6 volts of power at the wire and if there, ground the wire and the gauge should peg to the high side. You will need a NEW sending Unit because your old one is for the "Light." Get a sending unit for the gauge set up for your truck and replace it and it should be working. Here again, NAPA sells these and they are the same for all the Ford trucks for 71. If it doesn't work, use the same trouble shooting procedures as above.

Amp meter.....Well, now comes the stuff. Let me say first, if the ampmeter was working as it should, you would hardly if ever see it moving----in either direction. They aren't designed to work worth a crap to begin worth. Here's a workaround that I would use at least temporarily. At the bottom of your Vacuum gauge is a nice little light which originally was hooked up with a buzzer in the big trucks with a vacuum over hydraulic brake system, (hydrovac system). This light would light and the buzzer would ring when you were out of vacuum. They have a vacuum tank, (reservoir), to store vacuum to operate the brakes a couple of times in an emergency when the engine is NOT running. Run your Amp light wire over to this light and connect it and use it for the Amp meter "idiot light" instead and you don't even have to wire up the ampmeter. It will still be working with the new red light at the bottom of the Vacuum gauge just like it worked before. To completely wire in an amp meter is a pain. You can check on another site that sounds like a pornographic word and they have a complete write up for installing an amp meter. Lots of work and the needle doesn't deflect more than about .050 when and if it moves at all. I would use the "fix" but if you want to wire it in, check out these instructions and follow them and wire it up.

Fuel gauge or gauges.....well again, first check for power to the sending unit. That other site I mentioned, (ford i f i c a tion. c o m), also has a great tech write up that addresses the complete ways to get your fuel gauges to work. You aren't really very far from having it done......keep it up. Hope I have helped a little. It seems as soon as you get the temp and oil pressure working all begins to be well.

If you have the signal indicator lights working, then your High Beam Light should also be working. You are getting close. Let me know how it all comes out. Regards!