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1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

F650(?) Instrument Cluster Install

 
  #16  
Old 06-12-2012, 01:05 AM
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Originally Posted by MotorDog View Post
Okay. Let's start with a little bit of troubleshooting on the temp gauge. There is only one sending unit and yours should be the right one. If you have about 6 volts of power at the wire at the temp sending unit, then you only need to ground that wire and if the sending unit is good, the temp gauge will peg to the hot side. No power....find the problem. Power but when grounding the wire the temp gauge doesn't peg to the hot, you probably need a new sending unit. But it could be the gauge. Gauges don't often fail so assume the sending unit first and replace it. NAPA has them for about $7.00. Make sure the temp sending unit is installed without gasket cement or teflon tape. You must have a good ground on the threads. It is brass to cast so it will seal and not leak without any gasket cement.

Oil Pressure gauge --- use the same procedure as above. Check for 6 volts of power at the wire and if there, ground the wire and the gauge should peg to the high side. You will need a NEW sending Unit because your old one is for the "Light." Get a sending unit for the gauge set up for your truck and replace it and it should be working. Here again, NAPA sells these and they are the same for all the Ford trucks for 71. If it doesn't work, use the same trouble shooting procedures as above.

Amp meter.....Well, now comes the stuff. Let me say first, if the ampmeter was working as it should, you would hardly if ever see it moving----in either direction. They aren't designed to work worth a crap to begin worth. Here's a workaround that I would use at least temporarily. At the bottom of your Vacuum gauge is a nice little light which originally was hooked up with a buzzer in the big trucks with a vacuum over hydraulic brake system, (hydrovac system). This light would light and the buzzer would ring when you were out of vacuum. They have a vacuum tank, (reservoir), to store vacuum to operate the brakes a couple of times in an emergency when the engine is NOT running. Run your Amp light wire over to this light and connect it and use it for the Amp meter "idiot light" instead and you don't even have to wire up the ampmeter. It will still be working with the new red light at the bottom of the Vacuum gauge just like it worked before. To completely wire in an amp meter is a pain. You can check on another site that sounds like a pornographic word and they have a complete write up for installing an amp meter. Lots of work and the needle doesn't deflect more than about .050 when and if it moves at all. I would use the "fix" but if you want to wire it in, check out these instructions and follow them and wire it up.

Fuel gauge or gauges.....well again, first check for power to the sending unit. That other site I mentioned, (ford i f i c a tion. c o m), also has a great tech write up that addresses the complete ways to get your fuel gauges to work. You aren't really very far from having it done......keep it up. Hope I have helped a little. It seems as soon as you get the temp and oil pressure working all begins to be well.

If you have the signal indicator lights working, then your High Beam Light should also be working. You are getting close. Let me know how it all comes out. Regards!
MOTORDOG, can I please say, I have the exact problem. First thing first. I have a 68 f100 but they put in a 70 302 and tranny. There is also a 70 printed circuit board. I dont know if they changed out the wires from a 68 idiot light to a 70 PCB w/ gauges.."You cannot install a gauge-type panel in a truck originally equipped with idiot lights (or vice versa) without installing a matching wiring harness, because of differences in wiring for the ammeter in the harness under the dash and hood. The gauge-type wiring harness includes a shunt located between the alternator and the starter solenoid. Two wires come from the shunt to feed the ammeter. The gauge-type harness and plug for the instrument panel are also wired differently. Also, with the ammeter, the ignition switch feeds the "S" terminal on the regulator with 12V. With the idiot lights, the regulator "S" terminal gets voltage from the stator." Also my dash lights come on and off all the time, not working correctly. Does anyone know where I can get a wire harness pigtail for the 70 printed circuit board?? When they did that conversion, they cut every wire going to dash. Thats the start of my problems..Numberdummy, got anything??
 
  #17  
Old 06-12-2012, 01:10 AM
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1970 printed circuit board

Originally Posted by NumberDummy View Post
You know how often women change their minds?

Whatever it is, it's prolly close to the total number of different wiring harnesses Ford used in these trucks.

There could be a dozen for just one year, one certain series, one certain model...the lists in the parts catalogs are mind-boggling.

Before/from a certain serial number, with/without this, with/without that.

I have no wiring schematics for these trucks, except what the parts catalogs show, and these schematics are as worthless for ID wiring as teats are on a mule!

You might try faxonautolit.com. Faxon has all sorts of used and reprinted manuals for Ford vehicles. His store is located in beautiful downtown Riverside CA.
NumberDummy, do you know where I can get a instrument panel wire harness pigtail for a 1970 f100 w/printed circuit board?? thanks
 
  #18  
Old 06-12-2012, 01:13 AM
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Originally Posted by MotorDog View Post
If this is what you are talking about.......what is it you are needing to know?



This Cluster is commonly referred to as a "F-600 Cluster." However, it can be found on F-500 to F-800 bumbsides and also up to about 75 or 76 dentside trucks from the F-500 on up to the largest Gasoline Powered made then.

Let me know if I can help you out on this. There is many ways to make these. I have another one that has had paint remover used to remove all the black and it is now shiny chrome except for the gauges. All of these are chromed first at the factory and then masked and painted black like this one.

That is, except for some that came in some of the buses and some 65-66 trucks and were painted white. I do no know from personal experience if the white factory painted ones were chromed first, but I have been told they weren't. Anybody know???
thats a nice instrument panel....
 
  #19  
Old 08-07-2012, 04:27 PM
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WHERE CAN I FIND ONE OF THOSE

i have been looking for months and i can not find one anywhere. Please you have any ideas where i can find one for my 1971 f100 please let me know.
 
  #20  
Old 08-08-2012, 12:55 AM
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  #21  
Old 08-10-2012, 03:35 AM
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3 days left 60.00 is really cheap for one of these.....after i post this good luck getting it from the other people here

67 68 69 70 71 72 FORD TRUCK CUSTOM GAUGE CLUSTER F-100 F-250 | eBay
 
  #22  
Old 08-10-2012, 06:28 PM
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i almost bid on it, but its got $35 shipping. thats a bit much in my mind.
 
  #23  
Old 08-11-2012, 02:27 PM
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Plus you will have to have the chrome redone. Very rusty.
 
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Old 08-11-2012, 03:33 PM
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That's a '67 dash, I think.
 
  #25  
Old 08-11-2012, 03:34 PM
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Might not go much higher than $60, but you never know. I probably could make a living buying and reselling these things......
 
  #26  
Old 08-14-2012, 05:39 AM
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So did anyone here win the bid? I saw it went for $101...
 
  #27  
Old 08-14-2012, 07:22 PM
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not me, to rich for my blood.
 
  #28  
Old 08-15-2012, 06:44 AM
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I thought about bidding... Then I thought about having to re-chrome it and try to find a Vacuum gauge (havent found one yet)... Just wasn't worth it. If I was to get one, it would have to be complete and finished... And not $300... (The complete one on Ebay)
 
  #29  
Old 05-23-2016, 09:59 PM
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Motordog,
I recently picked up a clean gauge cluster from F600 with vacuum and 4K diesel tach.
Where did you find the 8k tach for your gauge cluster?
I have searched SW gauges and Ebay, no luck...
Please help if you can, I really appreciate it!!
 
  #30  
Old 05-23-2016, 11:04 PM
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I see you've waken up an old dead post!

I'm working on my second custom gauge dash cluster and using a 68 plug setup up into my 71
The color code is the same just leave about a 1/4" of wire when you cut off the old plug not being used so you double check the color's used.
The 68 plug has 12 wires or the one, I using, I'm using a 70 f100 circuit board plug just code but has only 11 wires circuits.
Trying to clean up some of this rat next mess..
orich



 

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