Electronic ignition swap

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Oct 31, 2009 | 03:52 PM

#16

Bullitt390

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Take notice of the + power wires: Full 12 volts KEY ON to module and resisted voltage to coil.

Oct 31, 2009 | 03:55 PM

#17

Bullitt390

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Quote:

Originally Posted by olfordsnstone

OK, I'm going to head back to my house and try wiring the + coil wire into the control module two wire plug (red). Then, If I'm on the right track, I'll wire the white wire at the two wire control module plug to the "S" terminal on the silenoid. Does this sound correct?

The "white" wire is a timing retard. While cranking the module will pull a little timing out to help the engine turn over easier.

You can have it connected to either the "S" or "I" terminal on the solenoid, doesn't specifically matter either way.

Josh

Oct 31, 2009 | 05:30 PM

#18

olfordsnstone

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From: Other side of the sunrise

Bullitt,
I think you've solved my problem with those last two posts. Unfortunately there is still one more problem and that is that my battery is now dead. Sheesh...

Anyhow, I see the schematic showing that I also need the old coil wire connected to the coil. I assume that is the wire that I had cut at the firewall in the donor truck last year (that goes to the + connection on the coil through the harness). It probably has the resistor wire in that circuit. Then it looks like I need to run a full 12 volt wire from the ignition switch to the module. Your next post explains to route the white wire on the control module to the silenoid S or I.

Does it sound like I've got it? Next thing I have to do is get down off the mountain and hit the auto parts store in town. I need a battery charger, wire and a few assorted connectors. I'll let you all know how it shakes out. Might take a couple of days now as I live pretty remotely from town.

Thanks for all the help. If there's anything else, please post it up. I think I'm getting somewhere now.

Tim

Oct 31, 2009 | 10:28 PM

#19

Bullitt390

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Diagrams definately help.

You need the resistance wire in the schematic. It is quite noticeable in the wiring harness as it is bright pink and the rubber coating (insulator) is a lot thicker than normal wiring. It also has written every few inches "DO NOT SPLICE".

Off the top of my head I cannot remember the total length, but it is very long, like 60-75 inches total.

As for the + module wire (RED) it can be any KEY/ START ON power source, whether it is from the ignition switch or another suitable circuit will work fine. The important thing is to make sure there is no power in KEY OFF.

Josh

Nov 1, 2009 | 03:33 AM

#20

NumberDummy

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From: Simi Valley, CA

D7AZ12250A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY213).

49" long / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / Color coded Red with Green stripes / #16 gauge wire.

Application: 1977/89 all Cars/Trucks.
------------------------------------
COLF12250A .. Resistor Wire-Ignition Coil (Motorcraft DY37).

61.49" long / 1.30-1.40 ohms resistance / Color coded Pink / #20 gauge wire.

Application: 1960/76 all Cars/Trucks.

Since this wire was installed on all 1960/76 vehicles, the OP's truck already has it.

Nov 1, 2009 | 07:40 AM

#21

mark a.

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Most all ignition mfgr's make a conversion kit for them. They are simple, just one piece that replaces the points in the dizzy. Saves you a lot of trouble.

Nov 1, 2009 | 10:24 AM

#22

olfordsnstone

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From: Other side of the sunrise

Quote:

Originally Posted by NumberDummy

I sent you a pm. Thanks, Tim

Nov 1, 2009 | 10:29 AM

#23

olfordsnstone

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From: Other side of the sunrise

Rep points sent. Thanks guys. I'm heading down the hill today to pick up parts to try and get her going. I'll check back when I get back to see if there's anything else I need to pay attention to when I get after it again.
Tim