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Best Ball Joints ???

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  #16  
Old 10-19-2009, 10:34 AM
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Discrediting something made in Taiwan or China is a bit ignorant, IMHO. The problem isn't over there, it's HERE.
 
  #17  
Old 10-19-2009, 10:43 AM
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I vote for MOOG also. I don't think the stock ones are greaseable.
 
  #18  
Old 10-19-2009, 02:23 PM
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I got 182K out of the originals. I bought the Moog greasables a couple of months ago and put them in (both sides, upper and lower). They are broken in now (186K) and I love them. I grease them every oil change. My upper ball joints came with the 90* zerk in the box with the joint. I had to grind the slightest bit off for them to fit in the yoke so that they wouldn't rub, but other than that everything fit great. I considered XRF, but could find very little feedback so I went with Moog like so many others. I hope to match the originals and get 180K out of them...
 
  #19  
Old 10-19-2009, 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by pbr man
For OEM ball joints it is about 50K. The tires generally will start to wear on the inside edge and sometimes they will make noise when you turn the steering wheel.
I think that has to do with driving conditions. We have (4) 99-03 super duties at out shop. All of them diesels. Two of them with snow plows. Other then one of the trucks with a plow, all of outs went above 150k. Mine werent somewere untill around 175k. I put OEM ones back in mine and the early 99. Second choice. Moogs.

Originally Posted by mechelement
I installed Moog greasable ball joints on my truck last weekend. If you run Spicer axle joints, good luck with your upper ball joint's 90* zerk fittings.
You may have noticed a plug that should have also came. What you do, is install the knuckle, grease the upper joint, and removed the grease fitting, and install the plug in its place. (Before you put the axleshaft back in place.) Unless your the religious greasing type. I never really grease mine, and they last long enough haha.
 
  #20  
Old 10-19-2009, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by rebelchevy02
You may have noticed a plug that should have also came. What you do, is install the knuckle, grease the upper joint, and removed the grease fitting, and install the plug in its place. (Before you put the axleshaft back in place.) Unless your the religious greasing type. I never really grease mine, and they last long enough haha.
Thinking that far ahead didn't happen. I threw the zerks in there ASAP and installed everything. I looked for those plugs, but I could only find one. Definitely a bonehead move, but with the new stubbier zerks and minimal filing, no problems. I try to grease everything during oil changes.
 
  #21  
Old 10-19-2009, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by rebelchevy02
I think that has to do with driving conditions. We have (4) 99-03 super duties at out shop. All of them diesels. Two of them with snow plows. Other then one of the trucks with a plow, all of outs went above 150k. Mine werent somewere untill around 175k. I put OEM ones back in mine and the early 99. Second choice. Moogs.
I was just basing off my experience of 50k for a set of OEM ball joints. The last set of OEM's went 52k and I know of three others in my town that couldn't get more than 50-60k. This time I put in Napa's premium with lifetime warranty, so I am hoping to get better than OEM's.
 
  #22  
Old 10-20-2009, 08:38 AM
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Like I said, I think it has alot to do with how the truck is used. I know the one 02, had alot of ball joint trouble, that the dealer had been fixing under warrenty pretty early. But I think its because that truck had a bad set, and they would replace individual ball joints at a time. Not even both on one side.
 
  #23  
Old 10-20-2009, 09:51 AM
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Originally Posted by rebelchevy02
Like I said, I think it has alot to do with how the truck is used. I know the one 02, had alot of ball joint trouble, that the dealer had been fixing under warrenty pretty early. But I think its because that truck had a bad set, and they would replace individual ball joints at a time. Not even both on one side.
That's why I waited until one of them was pretty much done, then I bought all 4 and spent a couple of days to do it only once!
 
  #24  
Old 08-24-2018, 08:40 AM
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How to ID Napa Premium?

At Napa, they don't specify premium or describe the construction of their ball joints Just say the Ore expensive ones are better

Any body have a part number or other way to identify the premium ball joints that have the Kevlar pad with grease grooves?

The ones they showed me are 260-1248 upper and 260-1395 lower. It does say made in Taiwan all over

Any tips? I know this is an old thread but it's a timeless topic.
 
  #25  
Old 08-24-2018, 09:07 AM
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I’m running spicer brand on the drivers and XRF on the passenger both are solid. Both running good for me so far. I would just get the XRF cheap and heavy duty compared to what I saw vs the old ball joints and the other new one.
 
  #26  
Old 08-24-2018, 09:09 AM
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Made in Taiwan is good made in China not going on my rig lol
 
  #27  
Old 08-24-2018, 10:32 AM
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I'm running MOOG in mine, so far no issues.
 
  #28  
Old 08-24-2018, 01:51 PM
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If you don't want to worry about them ever again, and you have the extra cash, then the USA made Dynatracs. BTW- unlike China, Taiwan is actually known decent metallurgy.
 
  #29  
Old 08-24-2018, 03:49 PM
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Originally Posted by liquidlounge
If you don't want to worry about them ever again, and you have the extra cash, then the USA made Dynatracs. BTW- unlike China, Taiwan is actually known decent metallurgy.
That’s the key point here. Top quality but unfortunately your wallet doesn’t hold up very well.
 
  #30  
Old 08-24-2018, 10:12 PM
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Forget Moog their quality has gone downhill, I vote Spicer for ball joints, that's what OEM uses.
 


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