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No fast idle

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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 09:07 PM
  #1  
JHoffman93's Avatar
JHoffman93
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From: Westfield, MA
No fast idle

Now that is is getting colder the truck is getting harder to start. But my question has to do with the fast idle. Its my understanding that if when its cold out I push the go pedal all the way to the floor then release just before starting that should activate the fast idle. Well my truck does not do that. I have to physically hold the throttle for a few min. or it idles so slow I'm afraid that it will die. What do I need to replace to fix this problem? Pictures would help. I also think that my gps need to be replaced. I have done away with the controller but the colder it gets the harder it is to start. Long glow time helps some. I tested them in late spring and they tested OK but I think they are weak. I'm I on the right track?
 
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 09:15 PM
  #2  
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DarrinGT
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From: Grand Rapids, MI
Sounds like you are on the right track with the Glow Plugs.

For the fast idle, there is an electric motor on your pump that shoots out a metal plunger that pushes back the throttle linkage when the fast idle is activated. If it is not working it may be the motor itself or the sender that is located on the front right of the motor. It looks like a big temp sender (cause that's what it is) with 2 wires on it. Start the truck cold and see if you have power at the motor, if not it is probably the sender.

On Edit, if you need a new setup I probably have it, let me know.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 09:25 PM
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Dave Sponaugle
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
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If you have a cold engine that has not been started yet, turn the key to on.

Check for power at the timing advance solenoid connector and the fast idle solenoid connector.



If you have power, the solenoid plunger should be against the throttle linkage and spring out a little more if you open the throttle and hold it there.

If you have no power, the first place I would look is the temp switch, under the alternator and beside the thermostat housing.



Make sure the connector is seated on the switch terminals, very easy to pull off when you are working on wiring or fuel lines on that corner of the engine.

If it is seated, you need to see if you have power at one of the terminals when the key is on, which you should since it is tied into the wire going to the fuel shut off solenoid.

If you have power going in and none comming out with the engine temp below 112 degrees, the switch is bad.
 
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Old Oct 13, 2009 | 09:40 PM
  #4  
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JHoffman93
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From: Westfield, MA
Thanks for the pics Dave. I'll check it out this weekend. Doesn't sound like it will be expensive to fix.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2010 | 05:51 PM
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hidbigo
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Thank you VERY much, Dave, for the pictures. I couldn't find any reference to it in the factory manuals and was pulling my (nonexistent) hair out. Indeed, I managed to knock the plug off the temperature sender at some point - but I don't know that I ever would have found it without knowing exactly where to look.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2010 | 12:49 AM
  #6  
Dave Sponaugle's Avatar
Dave Sponaugle
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
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hidbigo,
Welcome to FTE and the IDI forum.

Glad you found your problem.
 
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