soak the screws with a good penetrating oil like Liquid Wrench or Tap Magic (NOT WD-40!) a couple times a day for several days. Heat the screws by applying a soldering iron to the head. Work the screw back and forth as you remove them to pull oil into the threads. Make sure your driver fits the head of the screw perfectly and is not worn. If it's still stuck and before you chew up the head give the end of the handle a couple good taps with a hammer like you are trying to drive the screw in then try again. If that doesn't work, drill out the head.

 

Thanks for the advice

I have liquid wrench - I'll give that a try.

Thanks

Dan

 

Charlie, how about writing up a detailed article on how you refinish/polish your metal to prepare it for replating. Like paint, the chrome finish is only as good as the surface underneath.

 

Some years ago one of the regular contributors to the HAMB posted this guide on polishing and gave permission to distribute it. It has far more info than one would need to prep metal for plating but it is all good info for any automotive enthusiast. For me, metal prep for plating is much the same as prep for painting; get the metal straight and then progressively grind/sand/polish the surface until it is as smooth as possible. I have invested in a couple of buffers and various wheels that allow me to put a very high gloss on the bare metal. I don't believe that most folks would want to go to this expense or invest the time but if anyone does I would recommend looking at the Caswell site and other buffing supply houses for more info...there is a wealth of info available on the net.

 

Charlie, those are great results. I have a hood ornament and a trunk trim that I want to repair. I have a product that a supplier sold me at HAN Swap Meet. It seems similar to Muggy Weld. It works only on non-ferris metals. The rod itself tells you if the temp on the piece is right as it won't melt until the piece reaches the correct temp. In the demo, the salesman showed us how to melt it and then squeaggie it across the piece with a steel putty knife. Then he sanded off the excess and the pits were gone. Have you tried any repair rod like this, or is Muggy Weld the only thing you have used? Thanks, Jag

 

Jag, no I haven't tried these other solder products. I have seen demos where they have puddled the solder across a wider area to fill in pits but I haven't used that technique myself. Another option that I have used is flame spray. There is a shop here in San Diego called Flame Spray International that does this work...basically it is a gun that has two wire feeds and a compressed air nozzle. The wires are charged + and - and are fed together in front of the air nozzle. If you can envision a molten puddle like in a MIG weld that is being sprayed out onto a metal surface then you get the idea. In flame spray they use any number of metals, I have had potmetal sprayed with pure copper to fill the pits. This works great until you try to electroplate it...the individual globules of molten copper sometimes setup electrical barriers on the surface that the nickel plate doesn't like. There is a fix for this, heavy copper dip at the chrome shop before the nickel layer is applied gives the surface a uniform electrical surface for the electroplate. Flame spray is really great for holes and "swiss cheese" in metal as it will replace complete sections of the piece that have rotted away. There are many sites on the net that feature FSI and the flame spray techniques if you are interested.

 

I have two extra ash tray trims and if you send me a PM I'll be more than happy to send you the better of the two. It is not pitted, but the chrome is almost gone and some of the copper underplate is showing. So, if you want them chrome, you will have to have it rechromed - only about $10 to get that done. (and honestly if you are going to do that you can use the old ones - they will fix the pits by dipping and filling with copper underplate)

Look on e-bay. The trim pieces show ip all the time. You may end up having to buy another glove box door to get it.

This is what they look like newly painted and out of the chrome shop:



Send me a PM with your address and I'll put that in the mail for you if you want it.

PS I searched e-bay for the glove box trim and there currently isn't one for sale. If one comes Up I'll let ya know!

Also, some time back we had a chat about loosening rusted screws. Bob Jones recommended a 50/50 mixture of automatic transmission fluid and acetone. I have tried this and it is a miracle when loosening rusted and stuck threads.

 

I have chrome plating business for 26 yrs.in Philadelphia. We have used MUGGYWELD and like it very much its good for most applications but not for every situation. Anything can be repaired its all a matter how much you are willing to spend. Zinc diecst (potmetal) can be difficult to work with.When choosing a good chrome plater make sure they are aware of the type of job that you want on your pieces, ie. show quality , streetdriver quality or just a presentable job. This will dictate the cost of the work. Good luck!!

 

I have chrome plating business for 26 yrs.in Philadelphia. We have used MUGGYWELD and like it very much its good for most applications but not for every situation. Anything can be repaired its all a matter how much you are willing to spend. Zinc diecst (potmetal) can be difficult to work with.When choosing a good chrome plater make sure they are aware of the type of job that you want on your pieces, ie. show quality , streetdriver quality or just a presentable job. This will dictate the cost of the work. Good luck!!

 

Julie

Your offer is wonderful.

Your are a special person.

I am not sure I sent the PM correctly.

If you didn't get the message e-mail me at burnettd@sbcglobal.net

Thanks

Dan

 

Got it Dan, and they will be on the way today.