All of the 1988 and newer EFI 460's have the switch located as in your images above.

 

we have all of them covered now, excellent


on another note, I think I will keep my 89 E350 cutaway chassis and toss the cab. will make an excellent mobile diff rack , and easy to hide from the neighbors. when I need the parts they will be waiting............

 

Thanks big time for those photos!

Well I feel like a boob. Mine is right there where yours is. In my defense, it was getting dark when I looked and on top of that the flashlight was dying. It looks a little different than yours too, even the plug looks different, but it does have a button on it so it's definitely the right piece.

I am getting power on both sides of the plug so we can eliminate this as a cause. Imagine that! After 2 years, I've actually accomplished something on this! Now we are getting somewhere!

Locating this has now finally given me some wires to follow! I followed them through the firewall back under the hood where they quickly joined with other wires and got lost in the maze. I really can't understand why I can't find that relay! Where the heck is it?!?

I'm going to bypass the dohicky at the oil pressure sending unit and do some more testing with my voltmeter, but one of the things I need to test is that relay, whose location still alludes me.

 

Hey 250 Ranger, sorry to bother you again, but where is the fuel pump relay on that rig you are parting out?

 

oh man you are testing me now, I just dropped the cab off at the scrap place this afternoon, I can't remember already. I'll have a look at the under hood harness I saved , but .....................I think it was on the L side inner fender next to the EEC4 hookup. I don't remember it near the battery.


you are only 1 day late, D'OH.


I actually moved the chassis right to the back of my lot tucked into the trees, duals were 92" outside, space between the trees was 96" , saved that horseshoe for the right time it will make an awesome diff rack, can't even see it.

 

Any luck with that wire harness?

I'm kinda against a wall here cause I need to be moving. This box truck is too big for my tow truck and I can't afford to pay someone else to move it cause I'm moving about 60 miles away.

Even just a few pictures of the harness spread out would help. Even if the relay is no longer attached, photos of the part of the harness that plugged into it would help a lot. Thanks again for your help!

 

I jumped the oil pressure kill switch plug and tested for power at the tank. (Which was NOT easy to get to!) The plug back there initially looks round, but if you look inside you'll see that it is actually heart shaped with three sockets. Looking at it upside down, The socket on my lower left had 1 to 8 volts, and jumped around a lot, constantly in fact. The socket on top had .01 volt and the socket on my lower right had .02 volt. I figure that one live socket is for the fuel gauge. The only relay that I can find ANYWHERE under the hood is that old syle ford starter relay looking thing on the drivers side front (to the left of the radiator) that I spoke of a few pages back. It has full voltage at all three of it's posts. I still don't know if that is my fuel pump relay or not. It would help if I knew what other non-dual tank fuel pump relays look like.

Please folks, I desperately need this truck to run! Not only does it need to be out of the way, it needs to help with this move as well. That's why, while everybody else is enjoying the holiday week-end, I've been out fighting with this thing!

Any and all help will be appreciated! And I appreciate the help received so far!

 

The fuel pump relay should look like this:


And it may be in this location:


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Sounds like the fuel gauge.

Note the 85 manual says the Relay is at the LH side of dash panel.
I do not know if they are talking about the engine side or the cab side of the dash panel.
Note LH is the drivers side.

Have you tried putting power on wire #787 at the starter relay on the fender and see if the fuel pump will run as a test?
Note it has a blue fuse link at the starter relay.
And make sure fuse #3 is OK with power on both sides.

Single Tank diagram.


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I'm still not sure which wire is #787 but I will work on figuring it out.

Since I'm getting power on both sides of the inertia switch wouldn't that already prove that I'm getting power from wire #787?

What are those wires labeled "carburetor circuits"? Are one or both of them something that could be causing my problems if it/they are malfunctioning? Is this another area I need to check out? What should I be looking for? (Aside from obvious stuff like missing/chewed/disconnected/ect. wires.)

 

No that just tells you fuse link Q is OK and the inertia switch is not tripped.

The wire leaving S179 goes to the Throttle Positioner Solenoid and the Carburetor Float Bowl Vent Solenoid.
The other wire may go to the Throttle Kicker Vacuum valve and the engine Speed Module.
Note Different engines use different Carburetor Solenoids.

No they would not cause the fuel pump not to run in cranking and with the engine running unless they are blowing fuse #3.

The fuse links at the starter relay.
Fuse number 3.
Do you have power at the oil pressure switch?
Jump fuse link R and see if the pumps will run.

 

Silly me, I was so focused on installing a jumper wire at the plug at the oil pressure switch that I didn't bother to test for juice there.

Don't fuse links take on a slightly melted appearance when they are blown? As mentioned earlier, I did find one slightly melted looking fuse link that turned out to be for the ignition that despite it's appearance was still OK.

Fuse number three. The only fuses I have found are inside the cab, near the brake pedal arm. Is that where I should be looking? Or is there another fuse box somewhere? I know there are vehicles out there with more than one fuse box. Since I didn't know which fuse in that box I should be concerned with I tested them all. They all checked out fine.

There is one bunk thing about this rig that I should have mentioned as it may have a bearing on this trouble: This rig uses a remote starter button. I don't know why. It's been this way the whole time I've owned it, which is over 6 years now. I can't see how something that didn't effect the operation of the fuel pump for the first several years of ownership is effecting it now but I needed to disclose this anyways so that we will leave no stone un-turned.

 

You only have the one fuse box and it is located as you say it is near the brake pedal arm.
When checking fuse #3 do so with a loading bulb type test light with the key on or in the start position with the push on wire removed from the starter relay. Make sure there is power is on both sides of the fuse.
Do the same for the plug at the oil pressure switch.

Here is the one the 85 E-series had and I would guess yours would be the same.


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When I tested the fuses I used a volt meter. I got full battery voltage on both sides of the fuses. That's good enough, right? (Remember, electrical stuff is my weakest area. It's like voodoo science to me.)

I still haven't tested for juice at the oil pressure switch yet. I've been having to address all of the other stuff in my life that I was putting off while I worked on this thing. Got to put those fires out now before I can get back to this.

Thanks big time for your help and these diagrams you've been posting. Most helpful!

Regards,
Eric

 

OK, worked on this a little today.

There are four posts on the starter relay with lots of wires on them. Three of those attached wires have fuse links on them. Two of these wires are attached to the post that is attached directly to the positive post of the battery. The remaining post that has a fuse link on it is by itself on it's own post. That one only has .11 volts on both sides of it's fuse link, while the other two have full batt voltage on both sides of their respective fuse links. Is all this as it should be?

I ran out of time before I could test for power at the oil pressure switch. That's next.