You might have to get one for F1 and cut the wheel opening to shape. EMS out of Cleveland, OH, makes good metalwork for these trucks.

CarlH

 

Try U and I wrecking in San Bernardino, I've found lots of stuff for my 1960 F100.
U & I Auto Wrecking in San Bernardino, CA | 1435 W Rialto Avenue, San Bernardino, CA

 

Zeke,

You'll have a lot easier time finding a F-2 to F-6 fender than a decent F-1. I looked at your profile and saw you're in SD. I know there are big farm trucks out there. The couple times I've been there I've seen a few just driving through. You probably know where some are or knows someone who knows someone who has one sitting out back somewhere. You guys don't use the salt we do here so everything isn't eaten away it's here. Look for a larger F-5 or F-6, same fenders as the F-3.

If you want to spent the $$$ Northern Classic Trucks have brand new bottom halves for F-1, $550 a pair. The bottom halves of the '48-50 truck are pretty simple and don't take much to repair, I know, I have a set I brought back from the dead. They were bad but it's a flat metal.

 

The original carb will have Ford on the right side of the bowl and 7RT on the left. Called the 8RT when equipped with cable choke lever (and hand throttle lever, if so eqipped.
There is a truck airhorn (top carb casting) and a car airhorn. The truck airhorn has what appears to be a sideways V cast around it. The car airhorn is flat with rectangular recesses cast in.

You cannot use a car air cleaner on a truck airhorn. The car cleaner's clamp is flat to mate to the airhorn. The truck's clamp is shaped to fit over the sideways V on the truck airhorn.

I have many 7RT cores I can rebuild for you if desired, with or without the hand throttle lever and bracket.

<a href="http://s131.photobucket.com/albums/p313/1952henry/?action=view&current=100_1296.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i131.photobucket.com/albums/p313/1952henry/100_1296.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
This is actually a late 38-40 V8-60 Holley 92. You will notice it has a car airhorn.

 

1949 & 1951 F1 motor and body parts available for sale. Excellent opportunity for collector enthusiast.

 

This belongs in the classifieds, not here.

 

www.rodnrace.com

they are a one piece fender, 300 each
anyone seen or heard of this place? Not for me but its the first F3 fiberglass fender repro that I have seen...

 

I am about to remove my instrument panel for cleaning and rechroming the trim. Any advice? or tricks that I need to know? Do I disconnect all the wires from the gauges first?
My progress to date....chassis sand blasted and repainted, brakes re-done, new SS brake lines, wheels from Pato in CA re-painted, new 17.5 X 8 tires from Universal, engine re-built and mounted in chassis, driveshafts connected, cab re-mounted. Winter is closing in, so I am trying to do indoor things. Thanks to all for advice and encouragement.Should be on the road next summer. Photos when I figure out how to put them on the list.

Carl Hanson
1949 Ford F3 pickup

 

If you're trying to preserve the wiring harness the best thing to do is disconnect all the wires and pull all of the bulb sockets. If you aren't preserving the wiring harness and it's junk just cut the wires but save enough wire on the wires so you can see the color coding. Hopefully you have a shop manual, it has all the color coding toward the back. If you're buying a reproduction harness I would assume they will furnish a wiring diagram but it's still helpful to have the wire remnants connected to the dash terminals.

There's 3 nuts that hold the pod into the dash:

 

Thanks, Bob. I will be installing a new harness, but your advice is good to keep some lengths showing the color coding. Now I will stick my head under the dashboard and find those three attachment points.

Carl Hanson
1949 F3 Pickup
1997 F150

 

Does the instrument cluster come out the front of the dash? or out the back? If out the back, then it looks like I have to remove the wiper motor and a couple of switches to get clearance.

Carl Hanson

 

It's been a while since I've taken a pod out but I think you can weasle the pod out without removing switches or the wiper motor. Once the wires are cut and pulled out of the way there's room to get it out.

 

OK Bob. I will give it another go. Thanks.

Carl Hanson

 

From experience, one thing to watch out for is the stud starting to spin when you try to loosen the nut holding the wire onto the back of the gage. I wrecked one gage that way by mistake. Bob, question, another reason I have to get a shop manual, Are the guts of the oil pressure gage and fuel gage the same as the temperature gage? The temperature gage has an off position opposite of the other two gages. I'm pretty sure the gage is different in so much as when it is powered up it swings in an opposite direction. I havent been able to find one to replace the one thats bad. Any ideas?

 

I don't know of any place that sells now guages. I've seen NOS ones pop up on eBay often.