Yes, thanks for catching my mistake. ICM, not PCM. All these ford acronyms get mixable in your brain after a while.

 

Installed the black ICM yesterday and still no start. Must be something else. When I tried to start it after the black ICM it tried to fire once then just cranked. Does this help with a diagnosis?

I am looking into the distributor next. need to clean off the balancer so I can see the timing marks. Once I get that done I will make sure everything still lines up the way it is supposed to. I might pull the dizzy anyway to see if there is anything wrong with it. I have a spare working PIP that I think I will install if the rest of the dizzy checks out.

Anyone know if there is a procedure to test the PIP?

I had the fuel pressure I am getting in a previous post. Is 40psi an acceptable amount of pressure to make the truck start?

Steve

 

If you are getting spark and you have 40 PSI fuel pressure then I would guess that your fuel injectors are not firing. Go to an auto parts store and rent noid light set (you will get your money back when you take the noid lights back). Unplug an injector and plug the noid light into the plug on the wiring harness. Crank the engine and see if it flashes. If no flash and you have power on the red wire on the injector plug then I would think you have a bad computer.

 

Does the noid light work different than putting a test light on the white/tan (?) wire on the injector and look for it to flash when cranking? I will call around to see if any of the local auto parts have a noid light. If not will have to drive a half hour to Advance or Auto Zone. One of those should have one if the local ones don't.

You think the PIP sensor is good then by the info I have given?

Steve

 

Just called the locals and no noid lights there. Advance has one to buy for $21.89 but they cannot verify that it will work on my truck. They said it will work on Bosch injection systems, GM stuff. and Ford TBI systems Do the Fords have a Bosch system or will the TBI connections work? Autozone has one to rent and they can't verify that it will work either. They said it had leads that looked like the correct spacing, so they thought it would work.

Steve

 

You will not have spark if the PIP sensor is not working.
If you did not have spark you can put a DVM on the PIP wire and as I recall it puts out about 6 Volts if it is good. Most of the time the PIP sensor will quit after about 5-10 miles of driving if it is bad and leave you on the side of the road. Or you will not have spark at all.

If you have a test light with a neon light in it you can use it across the injector plug after you unplug it. I do not think I would use the test lights with a bulb in it here as it may overload the transistor in the PCM computer and take it out. A high impedance analog FET meter may work here also for testing this circuit.

The Injectors will not fire if the PIP sensor is not working also.

 

There should be one in the set that will work. All the noid light is, is a neon light with two pins sticking out and as long as the spacing of your injector plug is the same as the pins it will work.
I know O'Reilly Auto parts stores around here rents them.
Yes I think Ford uses the Bosch injection system.

 

Ok. I will rent the one from AZ and check it out and let you know how it turns out.

Steve

 

does your distributor turn as in the rotor button move in the cap when the engine is turned over? had my 351 break 2 teeth off the distributor gear once. i replaced all sorts of stuff before i checked to see if it was turning.

 

Last I checked it was turning, but I haven't been able to see if the rotor lines up with the right plug wire with the engine at TDC yet. Hope to do that when it gets daytime here. My balancer is so rusty where the timing marks are that I can't see the marks. Need to take some more time to get it cleaned up so I can tell where everything is.

Steve

 

Well, I put the light in one of the injector connectors and no flash when I crank it over. Both terminals on the connector have power when checked with a test light with key in run, but no flash at the light. I guess that means that the PCM is not grounding the injector to make it fire? Are both terminals supposed to have power in this case? Am I looking at a new PCM then? What would cause the PCM to die because I don't want to put a new one in and have it die, too?

Steve

 

Yes that means the PCM is not grounding the fuel injectors.

Both are to have power on them with the key on and the engine not being cranked.
Maybe, but other things can cause this. No PIP, no power on pins 37 & 57 or no ground on pins 40 & 60 will cause this also.
Water in the PCM plug, bad caps inside the PCM and putting power on the CEL wire at the EEC Self-Test Connector plus other things but these are the most common.

 

Can I pull the PCM connector off the PCM and check these pins at the connector? Can I check for power at pins 37 & 57 with a test light in the connector? Would that be the proper way to check that? Also, can I check for ground at pins 40 & 60 by hooking a test light to 12v and ground it to the pins? Would checking continuity to ground at pins 40 & 60 with an ohm meter be a better way? Can I check these with the connector unplugged?

Earlier you said that I would not have spark if the PIP was not working. I do have spark, so does that mean the PIP is sending a signal to tell when to fire the injectors? You know off hand which pin is the one the PIP sends the signal to the PCM through to fire the injectors?

Steve

 

YES you can but a brake-out box (BOB) would be safer.

YES

Yes with the test light. The BOB is the proper way .

Yes.

Yes.

Yes that is the about the only way.

I would think so.

PIP is pin #56. AKA crankshaft position sensor (CKP).





/

 

Apparently the first light I tried to use to check the injector pulsing was bad. I just tried a different one and I get pulses to the injectors. I also checked the voltage on the grey/orange PIP wire to pin 56 on the PCM and it had 8 volts KO and about 4.8 volts while cranking. The PIP is apparently working since I have spark and the injectors are pulsing. I have verified where the timing marks are on the rusty balancer and the rotor lines up with the correct wire on the cap while the timing marks show at TDC and with the piston in the correct position. I don't think anything has happened with the distributor then. I am getting the feeling that there is going to be something stupid wrong with this thing. Something like the heater blower motor is shorting out and causing it not to start somehow. I don't know. Maybe I will pull the distributor out just to check a little closer that nothing is wrong there. It was weird when I was just doing the checks with the noid light while I was cranking it it sounded like it was trying to fire but it just won't catch and go.

Steve