Hi,
I know this question has been asked before....but the search is overwhelming.

I am installing a 272 from a 1956 f600 wrecker into a restored 1956 f100 and ready to fire her up.
I will most likely rebuild it if it all goes well next year.(over winter)

WHAT OIL? It has sludge in valve covers....and oil pan...and I cleaned those out.....but what oil to use? I am thinking 30weight non-detergeant.
WHAT WOULD YOU USE?
THANKS Bill

 

Use your favorite brand oil in 10w40 or 20w50 and you should be alright.

 

GREAT....and hope this yblock lights right up....vrrrrrroommmBill

 

Hi Bill,

Yes, oil discussions here and on other sites is usually a "here's what I use" discussion.

In any old engine that may have had been run on non-detergent oil or maybe didn't have regular oil changes AND has a lot of sludge build-up, and then using detergent oil, there's always the risk of a piece breaking loose and plugging up an oil gallery.

Your cleaning it up a little will help but there's going to be a fair amount of area inside that you couldn't clean. It also helped to clean out the valve covers and oil pan and I presume that you cleaned the oil screen...

As Charlie indicated any brand will probably be just fine. All modern oils are "detergent" and will slowly dissolve the sludge that they touch as you run it and you'll remove most of it by changing it frequently.

The sludge that collects on the inside of the valve covers is mainly from oil vapor and that doesn't get removed very quickly. Splash oil will do it but it's a slow process.

your cleaning them took care of that!

I would suggest against using an oil "flush" system that uses a petroleum solvent in the oil since this can break loose large chucks of "stuff" and you can plug oil passages etc.....

You can clean the block when you tear it down for the rebuild!!!

Lets see some pictures!!


Cheers,


Rick

 

Rick....I still cannot post pics.....it is way too complicated and way too much hassle to ask the wife.....LOL
Maybe after I paint her car....she will be a little more likely to help me....haha
Bill

 

I know this was months ago, but maybe in case someone was searching; in my F-600, in the glove box was a sticker for the oil to use, over 32 degrees you use SAE 30

 

Yes it is a bit old.....

But just because straight 30 was recommended in 1956 doesn't mean that it's the best choice now.....

There's been a few improvements in oil in the last 54 years!!

 

Multi grades are much better than just a straight single viscosity. They protect much better when the engine is cold as they are thin when they are cold and thicken as the temp rises.

I have been getting an excessive amount of oil leaking into the combustion chamber through the intake valves. I have a theory that if I change from the normal 10w-30 that I use now to 10w-40, I may get less leakage down the valves. Does this make since to anybody or am I just being too optimistic? Jag

 

Well, aside from the fact that I would not use 10w40 in ANYTHING I own........

You might be ok to run 15W40. But you should probably just replace the valve seals with new ones and you might get a little less oil at the valve stems.

 

Ah Rick dont be so hard . With the frequency of oil changes 10/40 shouldnt hurt. But 15/40 would probably be a better choice, and 20/50 possible during summer.

Like Rick said, rather than mess with fouling plugs and temp fixes with oil, rebuild the heads. It isnt that difficult to remove and reinstall, and they can get a fresh set of exhaust seats in the process. While they are off have them milled up to .020 for a slight improvement in compression.

Keep in mind that there probably is more than bad guide seals leading to oil in the combustion chamber. Like excessive clearance between stem and guide. Some guys dont use any seals, and with attention given to stem to guide clearance during the setup, they dont have excessive oil migrating into the combustion area.

 

Rick, do you have something against the 10w-40 but not the 15w-40. Aren't they both 40 when they get up to operating temp? Jag