How to install a used Tommy Gate liftgate
#1
How to install a used Tommy Gate liftgate
I scored a used Tommy Gate (swap for a $30 notebook hard drive installation) and figured I'd share how easy they are to install. After using them at work I wanted one, and after Googling I found out that Tommy Gate makes installation kits for many different trucks.
The kit for a 2000 150 and similar trucks is TG-T250, which went for $140.14 from www.inlad.com. Shipping was ten bucks. It would be easy to fabricate the parts, but at that price I decided not to bother.
Tommy Gates are fairly common in salvage yards, are based on a few universal gates plus bracket kits, and can lift 1000 pounds or better. They are pretty simple and you can download manuals online.
I added lifting eyes to make handling easier:
Inside view:
Kit hardware:
Installed gate (note the stock hitch itself clears it but make sure your gate doesn't conflict with the hitch ball when you lower it).
There are more explicit installation photos in my gallery with detailed captions. If anyone has questions on pulling them from a donor truck or installing them feel free to ask. I'll add wiring pics later.
The kit for a 2000 150 and similar trucks is TG-T250, which went for $140.14 from www.inlad.com. Shipping was ten bucks. It would be easy to fabricate the parts, but at that price I decided not to bother.
Tommy Gates are fairly common in salvage yards, are based on a few universal gates plus bracket kits, and can lift 1000 pounds or better. They are pretty simple and you can download manuals online.
I added lifting eyes to make handling easier:
Inside view:
Kit hardware:
Installed gate (note the stock hitch itself clears it but make sure your gate doesn't conflict with the hitch ball when you lower it).
There are more explicit installation photos in my gallery with detailed captions. If anyone has questions on pulling them from a donor truck or installing them feel free to ask. I'll add wiring pics later.
#2
Tommy liftgate "forgotten pic's?"
So - over a year later... no follow up posts, bumps or search-able pic's for this and the "wire job" you mentioned?
I guess I'm up the creek? Or did life happen to you as well for *this* project like several project's *got away* from me over the last 2 yrs?
It'll take me a few days to possibly a few weeks to get *spare time* to install mine.
Just acquired it via craigslist too.
I guess I'm up the creek? Or did life happen to you as well for *this* project like several project's *got away* from me over the last 2 yrs?
It'll take me a few days to possibly a few weeks to get *spare time* to install mine.
Just acquired it via craigslist too.
#3
I got lazy and have visions of mounting my spare Ramsey winch in the bed and sharing the power cable.
The wiring is extremely simple. All you need is the supplied breaker (100A) or equivalent run off a hot lead straight off the battery terminal or whatever terminal block you prefer, then run to the gate power cable.
I currently use a welding cable quick disconnect (ground is back through the frame) and a welding stinger to run it, or I grab a jumper cable. Put the MALE QD end on the lead that hangs out the gate, so the protected female will be on the hot side. I'll keep that arrangement when I hardwire it in. All the controls are self-contained in the gate. Works fine!
Looks like these, get at any welding supply:
Pearson SK-25 & BK-25 Dinse Connector Set Male & Female ( Set)
REMEMBER that later gates have a concealed switch you have to tap to activate power before the gate will cycle. Double-check your hydraulic reservoir and inspect everything, lubing as required.
Download manuals
here:
Welcome To Tommy Gate - America's First Name In Liftgates
The gate is insanely handy.
You can do the brackets first and leave the stock tailgate in place if you like. They install quickly.
I always anti-seize all hardware on principle.
If you don't have a welder handy, you could use a couple of eyebolts to lift the gate instead of welded eyelets.
The wiring is extremely simple. All you need is the supplied breaker (100A) or equivalent run off a hot lead straight off the battery terminal or whatever terminal block you prefer, then run to the gate power cable.
I currently use a welding cable quick disconnect (ground is back through the frame) and a welding stinger to run it, or I grab a jumper cable. Put the MALE QD end on the lead that hangs out the gate, so the protected female will be on the hot side. I'll keep that arrangement when I hardwire it in. All the controls are self-contained in the gate. Works fine!
Looks like these, get at any welding supply:
Pearson SK-25 & BK-25 Dinse Connector Set Male & Female ( Set)
REMEMBER that later gates have a concealed switch you have to tap to activate power before the gate will cycle. Double-check your hydraulic reservoir and inspect everything, lubing as required.
Download manuals
here:
Welcome To Tommy Gate - America's First Name In Liftgates
The gate is insanely handy.
It'll take me a few days to possibly a few weeks to get *spare time* to install mine.
I always anti-seize all hardware on principle.
If you don't have a welder handy, you could use a couple of eyebolts to lift the gate instead of welded eyelets.
#4
So - over a year later... no follow up posts, bumps or search-able pic's for this and the "wire job" you mentioned?
I guess I'm up the creek? Or did life happen to you as well for *this* project like several project's *got away* from me over the last 2 yrs?
It'll take me a few days to possibly a few weeks to get *spare time* to install mine.
Just acquired it via craigslist too.
I guess I'm up the creek? Or did life happen to you as well for *this* project like several project's *got away* from me over the last 2 yrs?
It'll take me a few days to possibly a few weeks to get *spare time* to install mine.
Just acquired it via craigslist too.
I'm on the duramax truck forum and no one seems to have a tommy lift on that forum.
I bought my Tommy lift last year. If waiting for the original owner to provide all the other stuff, I got the cold shoulder from him and decided to buy the bracket set for about $200, the breaker, and the welding wires.
Search the list and read your article with interest. It has to be the best one out there on self installing a tommy lift.
I search here one every few months to check on updates and there are none.
It's been almost a year since I bought mine and I need to install mine soon. Any help would be apperciated. My main issue is how to I hold up the tommy lift myself. I have an engine lift and a welder, but don't trust my welding skills.
BTW, where you located? I'm located in the Bay Area (CA).
Monckywrench: thanks for the informative post.
Gary
#5
Spend some time doing welding practice. Prior to that, lurk and post questions at the weldingweb, hobart welding forums, and millerwelds forums. (Google those terms to get there.) Post pics of your welds for critique.
For a weld-free lift, drill a 5/16" hole dead center under where the welded eyelets are in my photos. Shove a bolt up through the hole and through a length of chain, then spin a nut down finger-tight. Repeat other side, then lift with engine lift.
Spin off nuts, and store the chain with the bolts going THROUGH it so they will be handy.
Chain, and chain grab hooks (I add them to everything I lift with) are mighty handy with an engine lift, so nothing you will use will go to waste!
For a weld-free lift, drill a 5/16" hole dead center under where the welded eyelets are in my photos. Shove a bolt up through the hole and through a length of chain, then spin a nut down finger-tight. Repeat other side, then lift with engine lift.
Spin off nuts, and store the chain with the bolts going THROUGH it so they will be handy.
Chain, and chain grab hooks (I add them to everything I lift with) are mighty handy with an engine lift, so nothing you will use will go to waste!
#6
Spend some time doing welding practice. Prior to that, lurk and post questions at the weldingweb, hobart welding forums, and millerwelds forums. (Google those terms to get there.) Post pics of your welds for critique.
For a weld-free lift, drill a 5/16" hole dead center under where the welded eyelets are in my photos. Shove a bolt up through the hole and through a length of chain, then spin a nut down finger-tight. Repeat other side, then lift with engine lift.
Spin off nuts, and store the chain with the bolts going THROUGH it so they will be handy.
Chain, and chain grab hooks (I add them to everything I lift with) are mighty handy with an engine lift, so nothing you will use will go to waste!
For a weld-free lift, drill a 5/16" hole dead center under where the welded eyelets are in my photos. Shove a bolt up through the hole and through a length of chain, then spin a nut down finger-tight. Repeat other side, then lift with engine lift.
Spin off nuts, and store the chain with the bolts going THROUGH it so they will be handy.
Chain, and chain grab hooks (I add them to everything I lift with) are mighty handy with an engine lift, so nothing you will use will go to waste!
Gary
Ps. thanks for the link to the connector you use.
#7
They last for decades, are very simple, and are a MAJOR backsaver. Using one can really change the way you use a truck.
Loading an engine, transmission, pile of block, bags of concrete, or fat chicks (put a donut in the bed so they lean towards the truck while lifting) will be much easier when you get it installed.
Loading an engine, transmission, pile of block, bags of concrete, or fat chicks (put a donut in the bed so they lean towards the truck while lifting) will be much easier when you get it installed.
Trending Topics
#8
#9
You see how the brackets sit from the photos (save them and zoom in or use Firefox with Image Zoomer for more detail if needed).
If you can get the same result, use whatever bracket you like. They are just steel plate, so you can cheerfully cut and weld them into whatever shape you want to try, and change that to something different if it no workee.
A slick way to mock up patterns is to use some white posterboard, by the way.
If you can get the same result, use whatever bracket you like. They are just steel plate, so you can cheerfully cut and weld them into whatever shape you want to try, and change that to something different if it no workee.
A slick way to mock up patterns is to use some white posterboard, by the way.
#12
I (embarrassing admitting now) still have the lift "sitting" strapped down in the bed- spare time went to foster kids we're getting ready to adopt, her boys(I'm step-dad entraining still, 5yrs later), fix the van's 2 O2 sensors, jetted axle DOJ & oil pan replacements, and work...... I came up with an idea to make the mounting even more DIY. Talking w/ my machine shop owning mentor on the structural integrity issues that could pose a "weak link" and so far I think we're a a few steps from starting final stage. This may have to wait till after the holidays -to be fare for both our lives and schedules (shrugs) -one ofthe trade offs for domestic life, I have learned- and continue to relearn on several fronts.
#13
Lift gate on chevy 1500
Im not sure how to post pics(it asking for url and staff).
Here's a link to craigslist where I got it from:
Tommy Gate Hydraulic Truck Lift Gate
if someone can add these pictures to this topic, please do
cause it will be removed from CL soon. Thanks
Here's a link to craigslist where I got it from:
Tommy Gate Hydraulic Truck Lift Gate
if someone can add these pictures to this topic, please do
cause it will be removed from CL soon. Thanks
#14
#15