'95 F350 460 7.5L E4OD.

Took a look at the timing chain while doing swap of the water pump. I am no mechanic, but rather your everyday weekend "wrencher".

Here's my problem: While getting to the timing set, I did not set the crank to TDC before removing the pulley, harmonic balancer, counterweight, etc. I looked & looked on archived threads about a solution to this, but I couldn't find one.

Am I screwed? I am clueless as to how to proceed.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Has either the crank or cam moved since? If not you may be able to figure it out where it's at. Or, turn both at the same time to TDC. Cam speed is 1/2 crank speed. AFAIK this isn't an interference motor, but keeping them "together" will keep you from timing it 180 degrees out.

Serving suggestion.

 

If I understand your question correctly, the answer is no. Neither the crank nor cam have moved since pulling the balancer, counterweight, etc. They have remained idle since then.
Keep in mind however that, in my labors to loosen and finally crack that bloody crankshaft bolt....the crank did rotate.

 

With or without the cam moving ?

 

Because of the timing cover still being on the block, I cannot give a confident answer either way. But it's safe to assume the cam was moving as well, yes? I mean, other than some obvious deflection in the chain, there is nothing that would indicate to me that the cam didn't move when the crank turned while breaking that bolt loose.

 

Real quick....I am very interested to know why it matters whether or not the cam moved. You asked for a reason....and it's "lessons"' like these that I soak up. Hell, 24 hours ago I figured one could replace a timing set like you could replace an oil filter.

Any nuggets of wisdom are appreciated, and remembered.

Thanks again, sincerely.

 

Because of the timing cover still being on the block, I cannot give a confident answer either way. But it's safe to assume the cam was moving as well, yes? I mean, other than some obvious deflection in the chain, there is nothing that would indicate to me that the cam didn't move when the crank turned while breaking that bolt loose.

 

You'll understand things better when you get it back together.

Seems to me once the #1 piston is at TDC compression, both #1 valves will be closed. #6 cylinder valves will be in overlap. And vice-versa. And so on and so forth in firing order. Don't wear out the damper bolt checking it 50 gazillion times.

Configure both the crankshaft and camshaft to this alignment or phasing. At #1 TDC the #1 and #6 valves will either be closed or at overlap, or near enough, depending compression stroke or exhaust. Apparently this holds true for about every V8 ever made, except for the Buick nailhead.

Iskenderian has a good article online on degreeing a camshaft, and without using a degree wheel that you might find helpful. You might want to check where it ends up in any case, a few degrees one way or another can tend to "stack up".

 

Until you remove the chain, they move together. So they are in sync now, and can stay in sync if you move the both at roughly the same time. Cam at 1/2 crank speed.

As the last post said, #1 all the way up, both valves closed on that cylinder and you should be able to see on your existing and new timing set the alignment marks right where they should be.

 

When the piston is a TDC #1 piston the key on the crankshaft will be in the 12 oclock position. The camshaft pin should be in the 6 0clock position. The straight up timing mark on each gear will line up with the pin hole on the cam gear and line up with the key way on the crank gear.A straight line from centerline of crank through key, timing mark , timing mark on cam, cam pin to C/L of cam..........ron

 

For Ford V-8s I'd recommend a timing wheel -- several manufacturers out there (and you can get used for around $10). I have 7" and 11" wheels stamped "Finding Top Dead Center" and if you follow the steps, do the math along with having the right tools (e.g. piston stops) for your particular engine you can match factory precision.....