Careful there, to run B100 in a post '94 rig (think that's when Ford went to synthetic rubber in the fuel fuel lines) you don't have to do anything. If you have allot of miles/time on your truck, the first couple of batches of B80 to B100 are going to dislodge any sediments in your tank. Your fuel filters will catch it...it's the crude that plugs the filters, not good B100. With that said, check out any source your thinking about buying from on a retail level. Some carry a quart sized mason jar to sample the fuel to see what it looks like; and to see at what temperature it gels. I run B20 when it's reasonable; because there is only one retailer where I live...I think they know that and are trying to capitalize on the "green-ness" of their fuel (I'm not going to pay 30 cents more a gallon, just to say I'm green, 5-10 cents I'm willing to pay). I've never had any trouble with water in the fuel or plugged fuel filters. I've noticed not only is my 6.0 quieter, but the exhaust has a better smell; it isn't as harsh as it is when on D100.

Now some guys have done a conversion to their trucks to run waste vegetable oil (WVO) or straight vegetable oil (SVO). In a nut shell, you put clean & de-watered used cooking oil into an auxiliary tank in the bed (under the rig if it's an Excursion). The tank is heated by engine coolant...it has to be; no PSD can run SVO/SVO if the oil isn't heated (around 180F) and the engine up to operating temperature. Remember, Rudolf Diesel ran his first engine on peanut oil...not recycled dinosaurs. There are two places for more information about SVO/WVO (A) the alternative fuel's sub group here at FTE https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/forum168/ and (B) Vegistroke/DFA [which is the sponsor on the alternative fuels group] http://www.dinofuelalternatives.com/index.php

I wouldn't worry about running B100 in a 6.0L; provided it's good, water free fuel...just like the dino-diesel. Yes, a Ford dealership may say something if your running more than B5 in a 6.0L, but how can they prove it was the fuel that caused the EGR valve to fail,or the EGR cooler to plug & fail or the headbolts to stretch causing the gaskets to leak? With that said, how many guys on this forum are running aftermarket tunes, or larger exhaust system? Those could and in some cases have cause warranty issues, I think it depends on the dealership more or less. It's been reported many times that B5 and up is better for our fuel systems than the current ULSD that we get out of the pumps. Yeah, their supposed to add supplements back into the fuel to moisten it up...but that adds allot of extra expense to the fuel. Why not just run blend fuel and be done with adding all the extra crap into the fuel. Hope this helps answer some of your questions IABill.

 

That's the pivotal point right there. B100 isn't listed as a true fuel source(it's listed as alternative) as such there isn't consistency between 1 source to another.


I would actually be more concerned with injector related issues then I would be with EGR and/or gaskets. Also, like I said in numerous other posts, arbitration is what most people have to go thru first on warranty issues. They don't have to prove beyond a doubt that something like that caused the issue, it is just "more likely then not", which is a far less standard then without a doubt.

That's not the issue, the issue is consistency. Right now as a fuel source, B20 is the highest standard recognized by the ASTM and that's why most commercial fueling stations have that and that's what is regulated as a true fuel source. B100 is still an alternative fuel source and is not as regulated as such which is why you don't see that as prevalent and why there is such different quality of B100 from places that might be 5 miles apart and have extreme differences in quality.

Now the car dealerships should updated their warranty to include B20 due to the standards mentioned above, but I don't blame them for not wanting to do B100.

 

I had the Diablo for a few years before bio diesel became available at the pumps in western Iowa. I get fuel at Farm Service or Coop depending on where I'm at when it gets empty.

 

I checked the link to available Bio and apparently I dont have to worry about it. The nearest place is about 150 miles away, and that kinda defeats the purpose of running Bio. One day, my crack backwards town will wisen up. We have a huge Diesel truck market here, but for some reason no bio. I did find a place that sells ag diesel, but Im not running that to save a few bucks at the pump (hefty fine here).

 

i will run the bio stuff if it is same price or cheaper but if dino stuff is cheaper it gets run. what i have heard though is that bio diesel has a higher acid content so that is something to keep in mind. i have run b100 before with less milage per gallon but quieter running. the 2 stroke oil i use in my fuel is pretty comparable noise wise and i get better mpg then b100

 

Actually, test studies show that anything over B2 (2% biofuel) provides no EXTRA lubrication for the injectors than the B2.

 

Mark's got it. It's the law of diminishing returns. Once you get to a certain point, you no longer gain any advantage. This is the same idea for fuel additives. You can dump a whole gallon of Stanadyne or whatever in the tank, but it doesn't mean that you will get a Cetane value of over 100 (not that that would be good for the engine anyhow). I buy B5 and B20 because I have no other choice; it's all that they have at the pump.