1994.5 - 1997 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel  

Hydroboost conversion...

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  #46  
Old 10-26-2011, 02:17 PM
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I see 2 different hoses one from ps pump to hydroboost and one from hydroboost to what is called gear?
 
  #47  
Old 10-26-2011, 02:33 PM
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Yup those are it.
 
  #48  
Old 10-26-2011, 02:43 PM
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I see 2 different hoses one from ps pump to hydroboost and one from hydroboost to what is called gear?
 
  #49  
Old 10-26-2011, 02:57 PM
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And should be a third that goes from top of booster back to pump reservoir
 
  #50  
Old 10-26-2011, 02:58 PM
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That third one is just aplain hose no special ends.
 
  #51  
Old 10-26-2011, 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by wildstang
I did my conversion this past weekend, got the setup from 89ford73. Nice to have a consistent pedal but need a little extra leg pressure then with the vacuum assist set up. The only problem I had is my 96 master cylinder had an ABS sensor that plugged into the wire harness and the hydroboost that I had gotton didn't have any ABS on it, not sure if later years do and not sure what year my hydroboost is from. Anyways I unscrewed the sensor from the vacuum master cylinder and just plugged it into the harness and the ABS light went out and so far has been out.

Should the effort to push the brake pedal with hydroboost be the same as with the vacuum assist?
So the master that was attached to the hydroboost doesn't have the sensor bung? You'll have to bleed the brakes again, but use your stock 96 master. You may have to mod the mounting holes just a touch, but noting major. Well and bleed your brakes again.

Yes, the pedal feels harder to press than the vac brakes. You'll get used to it.
 
  #52  
Old 10-27-2011, 09:12 AM
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Really, your saying the master cylinder will work on a vacuum booster and hydralic booster?
 
  #53  
Old 10-27-2011, 09:20 AM
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Here's some picts

hydro boost from engine side
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from fender side
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connection at pump. Below you can see where I T into the lower hose.
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the ABS sensor unscrewed from the other master cylinder and just plugged into the harness.
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  #54  
Old 10-27-2011, 11:18 AM
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Nice pics I can't wait to start on mine my big truck hardly stops anyway
 
  #55  
Old 10-27-2011, 11:41 AM
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Pretty easy and straight forward. Especially if you don't have to deal with rusted parts.

The worst part is changing the line on the steering box. Not much room to get a wrench in there. My original line was really rusty so I just cut it off and used a deep socket to unscrew the fitting.
 
  #56  
Old 10-27-2011, 06:51 PM
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yea sorry my server at home bit the big one a while ago. Haven't been able to recover my site from the drive. I'll see what I can whip up.
 
  #57  
Old 10-27-2011, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by wildstang
Really, your saying the master cylinder will work on a vacuum booster and hydralic booster?
Absolutely! The master a master. They can be changed no problem. When I originally started this thread in 2010, I was using a hydroboost unit off an 02 and my original master bolted right up. I now have a hb from a 97 F-superduty since it's a direct bolt-on and brand new and not leaking inside my cab like the other one. The master cylinder mounting bolts are a tad wider on the new Motorcraft F-superduty hb. So I had to cut the outer most "points" off the mounting holes of the master (basically made them a "u" shape that's on it's side). Works like a champ. There's alot of others that have done this as well.

The master that came on the hydroboost trucks has a larger bore I believe and I've heard of people having issues with too much pressure for our drum brakes. Not 100% sure on the validity of that though. I've got the larger master in a box so that wen I go to disk rear brakes, I can swap it over.

Originally Posted by wildstang
Here's some picts

hydro boost from engine side

See that "nipple" that is directly below the front brake line... it faces down and to the inside of the motor compartment, towards the exhaust manifold. That's where the hb master cylinders have that ABS sensor mounted. Mounts down and to the inside instead of straight on top like our OBS has. Check and see if there is a plug in there. If so, just remove it and install the sensor. If not, then not sure what to tell you. But that's where it's supposed to mount on the larger master cylinder.
 
  #58  
Old 10-28-2011, 06:43 AM
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Thanks Ryan. I actually did notice that in the picture, not sure why I didn't see it when I was installing it. I'll check it out. Right now with the sensor plugged in the light is staying off.

My rear brakes do lock up first but they did that with the correct vacuum master cylinder. May just put in a manual proportionimg valve.

Do you have any pedal play? I mean when I push the pedal there is no free travel, at least not very much. Should there be? If so how much?
 
  #59  
Old 10-28-2011, 07:04 AM
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Does your cruise work? I know if that sensor goes bad it won't set the abs light but the.cruise doesn't work. As for them grabbing, it my be you rabs valve or could mean that your park brakes are still slightly engaged, or they just need adjusted. They are supposed to self adjust but don't always do so. Try backing up quickly and jamming on the brakes to see if that helps.

As for pedal, its pretty much instant. Takes more pressure to apply than before too.

Gotta catch this flight. Will check back later.
 
  #60  
Old 10-28-2011, 08:20 AM
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Originally Posted by strokersace
See that "nipple" that is directly below the front brake line... it faces down and to the inside of the motor compartment, towards the exhaust manifold. That's where the hb master cylinders have that ABS sensor mounted. Mounts down and to the inside instead of straight on top like our OBS has. Check and see if there is a plug in there. If so, just remove it and install the sensor. If not, then not sure what to tell you. But that's where it's supposed to mount on the larger master cylinder.
Looking at that pic and see other pics from other ppl that has that master cylnder, I was going to tell you the same thing about the "nipple"


 


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