I have a thread going called 360 piston height I think. I came across some pistons that may raise the compression but nobody really took much of a look at. ( iIf it would indeed raise the comp ratio to say to 9.0 then you might be looking at alot of High performance options. Also there is good cam info on a thread by flatford, reads 360 cam headers or something like that.
If you have the stock pistons, In "my opinion" you would be wasting your money on any cam but the stock one. So then it's stock lifters. But a 0 or straight up timeset by Cloyes while your there. Cheap about 50 bucks. If you have a EGR and use the straight up time set block it off (works against you). The retarded timeing was built into the keyway location on the Emissions 360,390 and 460 of the 70's time sets. Anywhere from
4* to 8*. That and EGR were engineered to work with each other.

 

I'm enjoying your post as I just had my 390 rebuilt and this was also my first time going this far in engine work. Ironically the project all started with a carburetor that needed to be rebuilt and I decided to change to a 4 barrel. I also had a broken bolt in the passenger side exhaust manifold. One thing led to another and I just pulled the whole motor. I'm now working on getting all my hoses, wiring and everything else all back together so I can fire her up and see how she's improved.

Anyways let me get to the point I saw you were asking about pricing and I just happen to have my invoice from the machine shop sitting in front of me. Maybe this will help you. It goes as Follows

Check Bores and inspect block call customer, check crank and rods. Pain gloss black and install brass freeze plugs.

PARTS
RCF390A Engine kit: 307.62
Cam RV Torque: 93.25
Lifters: 58.80
Freeze Plug(s) Brass: 13.00
Pushrod: 3.34
Gloss Black Paint: 9.00
Balancer Wear Sleeve: 6.60
Headers Flow-Tech (stock): 50.00
ARP Head Bolts: 96.11


LABOR
Clean Block: 50.00
Clean Parts/Hot Tank: 50.00
Bore and Hone Block: 100.00
Recon. Connecting Rod(s): 160.00
Polish Crankshaft: 30.00
Install Freezplugs 10.00
Install Cam Bearings: 25.00
Hang Pistons (Off Rod): 32.00
Misc. Charge/Recon Rockers: 90.00
Assemble Long Block: 350.00

Labor: 897.00
Parts: 637.72
Shop Supplies: 15.00
Sub Total: 1549.72
Sales Tax 107.43
Total: 1657.15

 

hi guys,
I know i'm a little late here, but i just found a complete rebuild kit from apm engine parts for about 400 dollars which doesn't seem to bad. 5.9 Liter - Ford 5.9 360 V8 1974-1976 Engine Kit, they also make a kit for the 390 and most other for engines. You can also chose different bore sizes incase you want to bore out the engine at the same time. Could this kit be bought for a 360 and then just swap to 390 crank and rods to bassically turn it into a 390?(-i know, stupid question, but i'm new to the FE world) Thanks guys, sorry to post off topic, i was just looking through your thread right as i found this site and thought that they were kind similar.

-Zach

 

Im getting ready to rebuild a 1970 model 390 to put in my 74 f100. Its been awhile sence I have done a big block so it should be fun. I'm replacing my 302 with a 390 so it should be more fun to drive and play with. keep the pics coming. Thanks Scott

 

If you get the chance check out Allstate engine parts and Competition products there are some good prices on these sites. I got a rebuild kit for a 390 from Allstate and was very pleased with the parts. Also my cam and kit came from Competition products also well satisfied with the product and price,

Have A Good Day--------Hotwrench

 

This is a great thread keep up with all the updates...

I'm currently considering rebuilding my 360

 

Hi, so I'm pulling my 360, and its all done, but I can't get my hand up from teh bottom, or down from the top to get out that top left side bolt from bellhousing to engine (4spd trans). any ideas besides trying to get my 8 year old to bust it loose? I'm ready to pull out the grinder and cut the sheetmetal away from the cab, or cut a hole in the firewall !

 

That one is a bugger. In fact, I left it out on the install because by the time I got to it the engine was seated and I had a heck of a time getting it to mate with the pilot bearing, so I wasn't going to mess with it.

Getting it out (assume you are separating the engine and bell housing in the truck and leaving the tranny in) is easier if you get all the other parts and bolts connecting the engine to the bell housing out, then get a lift on the engine, take out the bolts holding down the engine mounts, and lower the engine, then you can get that bolt.

Putting it back, get that bolt after you have the tranny and engine married, but before you seat the engine. Just an inch makes the difference.

Good luck.

 

thank you, much appreciated, could not get my head around wth to do. I will try that tomorrow and post some pics if I can get it right!

justin

 

this thread give me some inspiration I'm a novice and looking to rebuild..

 

I was a novice and rebuilt a 390. The first shop was all eager to do a line bore, torque plate cylinder bore, etc. Big bucks to "do it right." Did my own measuring and decided all I needed from the machine shop was an overbore. Got a good book and friends on the internet and did it in about 4-5 months. Prolly cost $2500 all in but most of that was tools like hoist, micrometer, impact wrench, I think I could do another one for $1,500.


puttster

 

Well this is an old thread. I'm in the same situation, my number 1 cylinder has about 60 psi compression . All the other cylinders are 100-110. Needs a new through out bearing in the clutch.

Going to read up this winter as it started to snow and the salt trucks are out, to get ready to pull the motor in the spring and do my first refresh on the motor.

I am not interested in making this truck a hotrod, the 3 on tree is fun to drive so for me the 360 motor is fine. Juse looking to pull refresh and repaint the motor and clutch. Replace the rusted inner fender wall and replace the radiator.

The previous owner cut a hole in the inner fender wall to drill out a broken bolt on the manifold. They put a nut on the backside of one bolts, so that will be an issue to deal with.

 

Even if you do a basic overhaul use a timing chain for a pre 69 model 390 or a double roller, I've also found that installing a cam for a 390 4 bbl engine and early timing chain didn't change the way the engine ran much but normally gained me 3+ more mpg.