Depressing clutch and starting getting worse!
#1
Depressing clutch and starting getting worse!
Hello Everyone,
I am a first time poster. I have a 1989 F150 5 speed. For the last couple of weeks I have to push harder and harder on the clutch when I start the truck. It is to the point where I can not even start it. I have replaced the neutral safey switch. What else can I do to get this truck running? Any help would be much appreciated.
Randy
I am a first time poster. I have a 1989 F150 5 speed. For the last couple of weeks I have to push harder and harder on the clutch when I start the truck. It is to the point where I can not even start it. I have replaced the neutral safey switch. What else can I do to get this truck running? Any help would be much appreciated.
Randy
#5
Are you sure you asking the right question? I'm not getting why having to push down on the clutch pedal harder has anything to do with your engine starting. Does this thing have a neutral safety switch? If so and you think the problem is clutch related BYPASS the switch to see if that solves your problem. You don't need that switch anyway if you have sense enough to remember to always start your truck in NEUTRAL. Your problem could just as well lie elsewhere. Have you done any VOLTAGE DROP tests as yet. That's where I would start. I wouldn't blame the clutch straight away.
#6
Welcome to the forum buckeye_nc.
This particular subject was thread mined a few days ago, and ended up being locked.
Here are a couple of pertinent posts:
Hope this better answers your question.
This particular subject was thread mined a few days ago, and ended up being locked.
Here are a couple of pertinent posts:
Originally Posted by lonesomebob
The automatic trucks have the socket for the manual clutch switch wired in. When useing an automatic, they put a plug in there that joins together the wires mentioned in a previous post, so just go to a wrecking yard, get the plug, pull the socket out of the clutch switch from the wrecked automatic and put it into your socket. It will now allow you to start your truck.
Originally Posted by dstevenson
How to bypass the clutch interlock safety switch
This applies to the 1987 thru 1989 f-150 trucks. I pulled out the schematics in the Haynes manual for the F-150 and solved this problem.
There are six wires on this plug in connector that contains the clutch Interlock switch, (this Interlock Switch is attached to the clutch hydraulic plunger piston near the top of the clutch pedal stalk underneath the firewall inside the drivers compartment). The two wires closest to the Firewall are both Red and lite blue, the third wire needed here is the last wire in the connector furthest away from the firewall. This wire is gray and yellow. You need to cut, strip, and jumper these three wires together to by pass the clutch interlock switch. You may need to trim back some of the plastic casing that this wire bundle is in to see all these wires. I would leave an inch and a half of wire sticking out from the back of the plug in connector in case someone wants to re-enable this annoying feature. I would also either solder this connection and or twist the 3 wires together tightly and use some of that Liquid Electrical Tape that Harbor Freight sells.
Now I can just put the truck in neutral (its a 4 speed) and start it like a normal old clunker. I know the feds are trying to moron proof trucks with these types of features but I try and not let morons use this truck.
DS
This applies to the 1987 thru 1989 f-150 trucks. I pulled out the schematics in the Haynes manual for the F-150 and solved this problem.
There are six wires on this plug in connector that contains the clutch Interlock switch, (this Interlock Switch is attached to the clutch hydraulic plunger piston near the top of the clutch pedal stalk underneath the firewall inside the drivers compartment). The two wires closest to the Firewall are both Red and lite blue, the third wire needed here is the last wire in the connector furthest away from the firewall. This wire is gray and yellow. You need to cut, strip, and jumper these three wires together to by pass the clutch interlock switch. You may need to trim back some of the plastic casing that this wire bundle is in to see all these wires. I would leave an inch and a half of wire sticking out from the back of the plug in connector in case someone wants to re-enable this annoying feature. I would also either solder this connection and or twist the 3 wires together tightly and use some of that Liquid Electrical Tape that Harbor Freight sells.
Now I can just put the truck in neutral (its a 4 speed) and start it like a normal old clunker. I know the feds are trying to moron proof trucks with these types of features but I try and not let morons use this truck.
DS
#7
To eallenboggs,
It's funny you ask that. I have no idea why I have had to push harder on the clutch peddle. Yes, there is a neutral safety switch and, I have replaced it with a new one. I read on another link that this switch may need to be adjusted. But, I cannot see how to adjust a fixed part such as this. How do you adjust this part? Thanks for your help.
It's funny you ask that. I have no idea why I have had to push harder on the clutch peddle. Yes, there is a neutral safety switch and, I have replaced it with a new one. I read on another link that this switch may need to be adjusted. But, I cannot see how to adjust a fixed part such as this. How do you adjust this part? Thanks for your help.
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#8
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#10
I'm sorry, I was under the impression that the safety switch did not change until '91 when the body style did.
And, I meant to say "....the block which contacts the switch down..."
Mine looks like the one on the right:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...lockswitch.jpg
And, I meant to say "....the block which contacts the switch down..."
Mine looks like the one on the right:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...lockswitch.jpg
#12
On a 89 there is no adjustment for the clutch safety interlock switch.
Press the clutch pedal to the floor and look under the hood at the clutch master cylinder which is mounted on the firewall. If the plate that the clutch master cylinder is mounted to pulls away from the firewall you need to install a reinforcement plate (available from Ford) inside the cab which will clamp the firewall plate to the firewall.
Click on this thread and scroll down and read the complete thread.
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t593973-f1...ylander_braket
Press the clutch pedal to the floor and look under the hood at the clutch master cylinder which is mounted on the firewall. If the plate that the clutch master cylinder is mounted to pulls away from the firewall you need to install a reinforcement plate (available from Ford) inside the cab which will clamp the firewall plate to the firewall.
Click on this thread and scroll down and read the complete thread.
http://www.fixya.com/cars/t593973-f1...ylander_braket
#13