That would have some insulating value AX, and a bit of sound deadening. The adhesive backed tar or rubber products discussed in this thread keep the road noise, and drivetrain vibrations from resonating throught the sheetmetal. They make a huge difference, even if you just use them in the floor. They act like a heat sink for noise. There are a bunch of things you can use for insulation. The bubble wrap, closed cell foam, jute insulation. Anything that won't trap excessive moisture. The sound deadeners discussed in this thread have some radiant heat capabilities due to the foil, but not much. You still need carpet insulation and roof insulation if you're trying to make your truck similar to a modern car in comfort. Carpet usually comes with padding where it is most needed already.

 

I will use a sound deadener on the panel roof before the insulation. PO glued up carpet padding that has let go in places.
Aside: Have you seen where those goofy CA legislators have passed a law banning black and other dark color paint jobs???? Say it will save fuel by reducing AC load!!! Who the heck sold them that bridge? They must be pretty ignorant in those black tinted windowed limos that the majority of the interior heat gain is thru the glass not the sheetmetal???? Any kid that has taken high school physics knows that.

 

I'll chime in on the rollers.The rollers are same as what is used on wallpaper seams. Get the ones that are used on laminate tops. The have hard rubber base and will last.

 

I bought my roller at Harbor Freight for $9. It is heavy-duty and did a good job. Jag

 

This might be of interest. I was at a guys garage and noticed that he filled in the gap behind the panel above the windsheild with "Great Stuff". I imagine that this helps the keep panel from rattling around while insulating that peice of the roof. Just don't forget that this stuff bonds to everything so special care should taken on already painted panels or upustry.

Clayton

 

It also continues to slowly expand for some time after application, especially when heated. It is strong enough to bulge or even blow apart panels. Be very careful when using this stuff to allow plenty of extra room for expansion.

 

It would seem to me that Dynamat would be good to use in the doors and lower body pannels, but I would think it would be better to use some kind of spray on sound deadner on the inside of the roof and floor.

Last Month's (Maybe this months - I don't remember) Classic Truck magazine had an article on Lizzard Skin - a spray on coating for sound deadning and lowering temp.

Has anyone used Lizzard Skin?

Will dynamat (or some other tar backed product) come loose from the inside of the roof when its a 100 degree day (I live in sunny CA)?

I have dynamat inbetween the door and the door pannels in my 2002 F-350 - works great, but if you have to work on any part of the door (like replacing the glass) it's difficult to remove and you get black tar all over your hands and clothing.

Spraying on Lizzard skin seems the way to go for the inside of the roof and the floor. Even though the carpet will cover the dynamat, when it's 100 degrees outside the dynamat would become soft and might be damaged when standing or walking on it.

I don't know which is best. Both are expensive. I can see good and bad qualities for both.

What do you all think?

Thanks

Dan

 

I put some of that around the doors of my first house before I put the trim on. Then we went to bed. Had to cut a hole in the roof to escape the next day.

OK, I might of made up the last part, but that stuff is powerful when it starts expanding. I cut for a long time before I got the door to work again.

 

Now that's funny! Jag

PS: the foam fill does come in three varieties: low, medium, and high expansion.

 

Dan

I'm probably making this more confusing which isn't my intent. A few random thoughts might clarify I hope, or perhaps make it even more confusing.

1. The higher end stuff like Dynomat, Second Skin and many of the other audio products are BUTYL RUBBER, NOT TAR. Most butyl rubber is rated for high heat. They are suitable for use on the roof, or anywhere else. They will not soften and move around. The Lowes stuff is just a high quality tar product with foil. It will also cause no problems except the roof and the transmission cover. Get it hot enough and it would surely smell like tar. I even used it on the back of my cardboard door panels after I upholstered them. They are heavy, but quiet as a Lincoln Town Car. And it isn't coming off without heat, and putty knife and a bunch of effort. All the products stick good to a clean surface.

2. A spray on sound deadener like you would use on the bottomside of a car would also be an option for a roof. I wouldn't use the tar type undercoating. Body Schutz is a 3M brand I think. There are many generic brands that would well too. They all make sound deadners, rocker panel chip guards etc you can tint or paint over. They dry nice, and can be applied pretty thick if you choose. You can buy an applicator gun for cheap at Harbor Freight that the bottle screws on. The option for the roof were endless with most headliners. I was so paranoid I would have a rattle trap that I went nuts. I have plain old Homecenter carpet pad behind my rod doors headliner. I may even have sound deadener under that. My memory fails me.

3. Many options for the floor, but don't get crazy with the padding. I wouldn't use house carpet padding there. It is susceptible to moisture retension. Big No-No against our sacred sheetmetal. The floor is important, you need something there for a real quiet truck, but carpet alone gets you over half way there.

4. Many options for back wall. It's a good place for either spray on or stick on sound deadener directly on the sheetmetal. Another cardboard panel on my truck so I have some Peal and Stick on my truck. I have speakers mounted in the lower corners so I needed the density.

Last point, the high end sound deadeners are not marketed to guys and gals building 50s Ford Trucks. They are trying to stop the resonance from high wattage stereos with large subwoofers. Even the lower priced options will kill the road noise and engine noise that comes with our trucks. That is the only reason I posted the lower priced options. Not because they are better than Dynomat, but because they are 1/4th the cost and work fine for us. I have some pretty nice (and amped) audio in my truck and they still work good enough.

IMO, about the only thing you can do wrong is if you do nothing.

 

Deffinately plan on doing something, but what type I don't know

May use a combination of both spray on and a dynamat type product.

I was hoping that someone had used Lizzard Skin so we could get a review.

Thanks for explaining the differences.

I appreciate the advice

 

If you don't get any help here you might try a separate thread. I checked out the Lizzard Skin website and it meets the heat requirements for a roof. They are attempting to market to the automotive audio crowd too. That's a good sign it would be great for your needs. It looks a lot like the liquid stuff I bought from Elemental Designs Audio for my wife's Escape. A spray on would be WAAAY better than brushing any liquid deadener on a vertical surface. I won't ever get talked in to that again.

 

I have no personal experience with Lizzard Skin, but I have read a number of articles and posts on other forums. The one caution I've seen repeated is the stuff sticks to EVERYTHING especially skin. Spraying it on the underside of the roof might be a job to give a day laborer or a pesky "friend" you don't want to see again. Off roaders use it to protect the undersides of their trucks, it much like spray on bedliner with a ceramic component.
Aside: I read one post about a guy who brushed it on the underside of his truck while attending an off road get together without using gloves figuring he could wash it off with solvent afterwards. He had a sudden nature call and forgot about the stuff on his hands as he dashed behind a tree. by the time he remembered it was too late, he had well slathered his personal bits. What he quickly found out was that solvent didn't touch the dry lizzard skin, but did burn tender skin. A call to the manufacturer told him that there was nothing that would disolve it, but eventually it would wear off skin, in about 2 weeks! His friends had a great time with him, checking each day to see if he was still walking funny. Needless to say it also put a severe damper on his personal life...

 

Good point, didn't think it was powerful enough to push the panel out. On a brighter side, I was helping my dad fix his sailboat's center board trunk and he, living in the middle of nowhere, decided to recreate the foam with great stuff. One side was done with great stuff, which bulged out and had to be trimmed, and the other side was done with a cheap knock off (green and black can). The cheap knock off filled the gap by exspanding to the outside and leaving the middle hollow. Not good for a center board trunk, but might be perfect for this application.