Is there a way to test the clutch?
#1
Is there a way to test the clutch?
Is there a way to test the clutch? to see if it's a clutch vs transmission issue?
One thing I do know is that normally if you can't get it into gear, and if you turn off the motor and it goes into gear, it's usually a clutch problem.
I have issues getting it to go into gear about half the time. The other half it shifts just fine. (and I am not new to a clutch, been driving them all my life, and in this truck for ten years).
I have a 302 motor, and T18 transmission.
One thing I do know is that normally if you can't get it into gear, and if you turn off the motor and it goes into gear, it's usually a clutch problem.
I have issues getting it to go into gear about half the time. The other half it shifts just fine. (and I am not new to a clutch, been driving them all my life, and in this truck for ten years).
I have a 302 motor, and T18 transmission.
#3
Do a clutch spin down test. Drive around the block a few times to warm everything up, park in your drive way, push in the clutch put it in first, then try to shift in to reverse, if it takes longer than 5 seconds or so until you are able to your clutch has some worn components that aren't allowing it to spin down properly.
#4
#5
my truckss the same [t18] and somedays its fine some days it wants to creep forward and be a b***h to shift im not sure why has new clutch flywheel all that stuff but my dad seams to think maybe the master cyl or the slave isnt workng right all the time if i pump mine a couple times it helps a little but the clutch is VERY hard the pedal i mean not to hijack but maybe you can try that and see whats going on
#7
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#9
Double-clutching doesn't make a difference. When it won't go in gear, it doesn't even grind, it just plain won't go. (except reverse, it always grinds, has for years).
A friend mentions worn synchros, but wouldn't that be all the time?
How do you bleed the clutch?
#10
Doubl-clutching helps if the synchros are worn out, which is usually indicated by that lovely grinding sound too - since yours don't grind, and double-clutching don't make the situation any better, I'd guess the transmission internals are doing just fine, and it is indeed the clutch not releasing properly. The clutch hydraulics you bleed like you do brakes, fill up your master cylinder up at the firewall then find the bleeder on the slave cylinder down at the trans, crack the bleeder open and having someone floor the clutch pedal, when it hits the floor you close the bleeder and your helper lets off the pedal, repeat this open->floor->close->release procedure a fe more times to purge all the air out, and make sure you keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder... Dumb thing is that there is one hydraulic clutch setup by Ford that has no bleeder on the slave cylinder, heck if I know what trucks got that and how you bleed it, just hope yours ain't one of those.
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