4R100 Rebuild
#1
4R100 Rebuild
Hey everyone,
As I am replacing the engine in my my 2004 E350 V10 motorhome, I have removed the transmission. It has 214K on it and it was working fine, but I'm going to rebuild it. Are there any must do's for this trans, like the TransGo Tugger kit or the Sonnax kit?
Thank you in advance.
As I am replacing the engine in my my 2004 E350 V10 motorhome, I have removed the transmission. It has 214K on it and it was working fine, but I'm going to rebuild it. Are there any must do's for this trans, like the TransGo Tugger kit or the Sonnax kit?
Thank you in advance.
#3
It’s really up to you- the transmission will be more than adequate in stock form as it’s served you well for over 200k miles. The more you dig into upgrades and others opinions, the more confusing it gets.
I highly recommend watching the transmission bench series on YouTube if you haven’t already. The man (must be related to Jesus) goes into installing a transformer tugger kit for the rebuild and gives you his opinion.
although I used his videos as reference, I did not install any shift kits when I did my rebuild and have zero complaints about shifting performance, especially towing my 10k lb trailer.
my only solid recommendation would be a high quality torque converter from a reputable rebuilder. As far as the best one behind a v10 I do not know. Other than that flush the cooler lines thoroughly or replace the transmission cooling system. Good luck let us know what you wind up doing- thanks
I highly recommend watching the transmission bench series on YouTube if you haven’t already. The man (must be related to Jesus) goes into installing a transformer tugger kit for the rebuild and gives you his opinion.
although I used his videos as reference, I did not install any shift kits when I did my rebuild and have zero complaints about shifting performance, especially towing my 10k lb trailer.
my only solid recommendation would be a high quality torque converter from a reputable rebuilder. As far as the best one behind a v10 I do not know. Other than that flush the cooler lines thoroughly or replace the transmission cooling system. Good luck let us know what you wind up doing- thanks
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#4
Thank you for your reply, KingDeleted. The rabbit hole of upgrades is no kidding, it does get confusing. And not to mention, all of the additional cost.
I did find Transmission Bench's 16 video series on the 4R100, the guy is a godsend for sure. He takes his time explaining every step, his videos are a lifesaver.
Mine has the factory 3 clutch converter as indicated by the soft ridges around the front of the converter, I was planning to buy an upgraded version.
So far, I have torn down the transmission and I haven't found any issues other than a little bit of trans fluid inside the solenoid block connector. I have ordered a new replacment solenoid block from Ford.
I thought about going with Alto frictions and Kolene steels, but I have changed my mind thinking it is overkill and unnecessary. I just found another YouTube video of a 4R100 in a 2002 truck, that lasted 500K miles. It had Borg Warner frictions in it.
At the moment the case and tailshaft housing are at a trans shop getting run through their parts washer, and I am having them install the 1 peice rear case bushing as well as a new bushing in the tailshaft housing.
I will keep everyone posted on the progress, thank you.
I did find Transmission Bench's 16 video series on the 4R100, the guy is a godsend for sure. He takes his time explaining every step, his videos are a lifesaver.
Mine has the factory 3 clutch converter as indicated by the soft ridges around the front of the converter, I was planning to buy an upgraded version.
So far, I have torn down the transmission and I haven't found any issues other than a little bit of trans fluid inside the solenoid block connector. I have ordered a new replacment solenoid block from Ford.
I thought about going with Alto frictions and Kolene steels, but I have changed my mind thinking it is overkill and unnecessary. I just found another YouTube video of a 4R100 in a 2002 truck, that lasted 500K miles. It had Borg Warner frictions in it.
At the moment the case and tailshaft housing are at a trans shop getting run through their parts washer, and I am having them install the 1 peice rear case bushing as well as a new bushing in the tailshaft housing.
I will keep everyone posted on the progress, thank you.
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#5
I bet with a 2004 V10 transmission, there is little to upgrade. Shift kits are a good idea, but modifying the accumulators may be something you will not like. Without a doubt, you may have to removed it several times to get the shifting where you want it. Matter of fact, I would expect that.
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#6
Thank you, 1Butcher. I am going to take your advice and KingDeleted advice to hear and not install a shift kit. With the cost of transmission fluid these days, that's just a headache I don't need. And to KingDeleted's point, I can't remember a time in the last 8 years where I was unhappy with the way the trans shifted.
I just separated the halves on the front pump, and everything is in near mint condition except a tiny bit of wear on the input shaft bushing that is behind the seal.
Do you guys have a recommendation on which frictions? It seems like Alto and Raybestos regular or Raybestos GPZ's are the most readily available.
I just separated the halves on the front pump, and everything is in near mint condition except a tiny bit of wear on the input shaft bushing that is behind the seal.
Do you guys have a recommendation on which frictions? It seems like Alto and Raybestos regular or Raybestos GPZ's are the most readily available.
#7
I can't say I know anything about a E4OD or the newer version 4R100.
I recently rebuilt my E4OD and put the biggest and best parts I could find. Short of the billet stuff. Too rich for my blood. I used GPz clutches. I also added more than stock. I did use some Alto [thinner] clutches for the last ones you put in [OD?]. Too many other mods so I cannot say it's better or worst. It pulled my 5th wheel on it's maiden voyage and I made it back. I guess it worked.
I recently rebuilt my E4OD and put the biggest and best parts I could find. Short of the billet stuff. Too rich for my blood. I used GPz clutches. I also added more than stock. I did use some Alto [thinner] clutches for the last ones you put in [OD?]. Too many other mods so I cannot say it's better or worst. It pulled my 5th wheel on it's maiden voyage and I made it back. I guess it worked.
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#8
Hey there! First time ever using this. I hope it's not too late, I just road tested my rebuilt 4r100 with the tugger and some of the zip kit. It definitely improved shifts, 2-3 is still a bit hard, 4th too but also it has 55mi on the rebuild so who knows if it'll get better over time. I also added a friction in the forward and direct drum and a low stall 1350. Used the recommended drill sizes and it worked out great. 1-2 and 2-3 under light throttle aren't even noticable
#9
Thank you, 1Butcher. I am going to take your advice and KingDeleted advice to hear and not install a shift kit. With the cost of transmission fluid these days, that's just a headache I don't need. And to KingDeleted's point, I can't remember a time in the last 8 years where I was unhappy with the way the trans shifted.
I just separated the halves on the front pump, and everything is in near mint condition except a tiny bit of wear on the input shaft bushing that is behind the seal.
Do you guys have a recommendation on which frictions? It seems like Alto and Raybestos regular or Raybestos GPZ's are the most readily available.
I just separated the halves on the front pump, and everything is in near mint condition except a tiny bit of wear on the input shaft bushing that is behind the seal.
Do you guys have a recommendation on which frictions? It seems like Alto and Raybestos regular or Raybestos GPZ's are the most readily available.
I thought about doing the same, using alto power packs. But the friction material thickness is what swayed me away.
I found a junk yard transmission and used it as a temp to rebuild while I rebuild my original with added clutches and and billet parts. I'll probably go with the kolene steels an Borg Wagner frictions... Maybe raybestos but I've heard mixed reviews.
I would recommend zip kit or the tugger, even if you don't use it. They do the same thing but differently. They both also come with a different snap ring for the od which is highly recommended. I ended up using the tugger and a few components from zip kit. I also went with dura bond Teflon coated bearings/bushings. The one piece output shaft bushing (and installation tool from summit for 55).
I would recommend taking your time and take pictures (especially of check ball locations, tugger kit shows the locations).
Hope your building experience pain free like mine wasn't 😅😂
#10
Hey everyone,
As I am replacing the engine in my my 2004 E350 V10 motorhome, I have removed the transmission. It has 214K on it and it was working fine, but I'm going to rebuild it. Are there any must do's for this trans, like the TransGo Tugger kit or the Sonnax kit?
Thank you in advance.
As I am replacing the engine in my my 2004 E350 V10 motorhome, I have removed the transmission. It has 214K on it and it was working fine, but I'm going to rebuild it. Are there any must do's for this trans, like the TransGo Tugger kit or the Sonnax kit?
Thank you in advance.
Overdrive snap ring update
-known to pop out
Coast clutch snap ring update
-unless you machine the drum, oe barely secures pack
Center support shim
-helps prevent cross leaks
Center support & snap ring
-prevents center support movement
Plenty of 300-600 grit sand paper
-clean surfaces
Loctite 609 or equivalent (638 if you have large gouges)
-used on various bushings
45 element sprag
-can use the 37 or whatever the count is but why not at $90
Spring Compression tool
large dryer hose clamps
Air check everything!
This forum, transmission workbench YouTube, Nick's transmission YouTube, atsg manual, and take pictures and measurements.
Good luck out there! Hope the rebuild goes well!
Last edited by Genki455; 01-15-2024 at 04:07 PM.
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