There are no pump rebuild parts. The first thing you need to determine is where the HPO leak is coming from. It could be pump, STC, or one of the o-rings on the wave rails/ stand pipes. It's not automatically the pump. This is best accomplished with some air and a piece of hose or a stethascope.

 

Don't know of any kit, we just get the replacement pumps at ford. Something about a NEW pump just gives me a warm and fuzzy feeling. LMAO

 

I just want to be sure it is the pump befor spending money swaping parts. Anyone have a recomendation on a good OBDII CAN code reader that a local parts store may have?

 

Well said , all these things have to be checked and it takes time, patience and a sharp eye and even some luck to trace some of these problems.

 

The local parts store usually has a basic scanner, try to find a shop with a modis , verus, or equal.

 

Hey Guys, I'm new to this site and new to forums as well.

I just purchased my first Ford Super Duty 3 weeks ago, and I'm having the same problem with my 6.0 Diesel. Only mine has never died on me after starting but, it will have a hard time starting even after sitting in the office parking lot for 8 hrs. I've noticed that the glow plug indicator light will come on for 6 - 7 secs and then it will usually take about the same amount of time cranking before it fires. This morning was the worst I've seen so far, it's about 50 degrees outside and I cycled the glow plugs three times and it had a hard time cranking over but it did eventually fire after about 10 secs. I'll have my batteries checked today, but I'm not sure that's the root cause of the problem. I would also like to figure this out before winter hits. I have a block heater but it seems silly to have to plug it in when its not below freezing.

 

The place to start w/ "hard starts" is to load check your batteries, test your alternator, and get the inductive heat flash (assuming you do not have it already). Also, make sure your oil is at the proper level and changed at the proper interval (and that it does not smell like fuel). Make sure you are using ONLY the Motorcraft, International, or Racor filters (oil and fuel). I know Fram also sells the original OEM oil filter, but I have also heard that not ALL Frams are the proper ones.

Personally I also highly recommend a 5W40 synthetic oil (CI4+ or CJ4). A recent thread has me "thinking twice" on this as a "universal" recommendation as some folks have experienced some issues w/ switching to synthetic.

 

Any one have a proceedure for pressuring up the HPO system to check for leaks?

 

I could tell you on an 04 and up truck but I'm not sure where you'd tap into the HPO system easily on an 03. On the later trucks you screw the IPR sensor out of the right front valve cover and put an air fitting there, but your truck doesn't have that. The IPR is under the turbo, so it's a tight fit. Maybe one of our good tech's will chime in or you could send Jobczar or Vloney a PM and get some help.

 

Thanks for the tips man. I had the batteries checked and one was bad and the other was borderline. Got them replaced and the truck starts up under 3 sec's now.(after cycling the key a couple times in the morning.)

I know I have had issues switching to synthetics before, my 97' Thunderbird rejected 10W30 Synthetic a couple months ago. My 69' Cougar is the only car I have switched over with no problems but the motor is pretty fresh. My truck has over 150K on it so I think I'll stick to Rotella 15W40.

Again Thank for you Help.

 

Well, I got in my AutoEnginuity yesterday and found these codes KOEO:
PO336 crankshaft pos sensor
PO311 camshaft pos sensor
PO401 egr flow low
P132b ?

At idle and monitoring the ICP 685 psi
Anyone tell me what all the codes are trying to indicate?

Not sure how to use the software to its potential yet and if any of you know what I need to look for, it would help a lot.

 

Here's a TSB for the P132b code:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/full...hp?tsb=06-24-6

 

Yesterday(The truck has been sitting sence Friday afternoon) I hooked up the scanner again and was sitting in the truck about 10mins with doing a KOEO test. Then I tried to start the truck and noticed it did not seem to be spinning the engine very fast. after about the thrid try the truck started and I noticed my scanner showed that my voltage was 11.5. I let the truck run for a long time and the highest the voltage got was 12.4. Sooo, I took the truck the Orielys and had them retest the batteries and they passed. Then I had him test the Alt and guess what, the alt was bad.Stupid me, i should have done that the first time. We shall see if that cures the hard starts after it sits a couple days.

 

The new Alt has not solved the problem. I still have the hard starts after sitting for more than 24hrs. Guess I will keep looking and maybe with my new AE software I will figure out something.

 

I can not recall - do you have the most recent flash update from Ford?

Also, I thought you could test the FICM w/ the Autoenginuity. You should read up on that or maybe someone w/ one can help you w/ it.

Edit -
Also - never hurts to pull the EGR valve whenever you get an EGR code. If nothing else, just to look and see how efficient your combustion system is. I re-read your post ...... was the EGR valve NEW in April or cleaned? Also, cam and cran shaft sensor codes come up from engine stalling and do not necessarily mean that the sensors are bad (in fact they rarely fail).