351w build. ALMOST there...
#1
351w build. ALMOST there...
Well, we ended up going with a .040 over bore and a complete rebuild. Cams in, timing gear and chain, heads are on, oil pump and pickup is on. I have the plenum and upper intake off of the 93 motor that im using for parts. And let me telllll you. she was nasty!!!! sludge build up was crazy and the last ports on the intakes were gummed up with something. i dont even know what it was, but it was packed in there pretty tight.
Now my question. How should I go about cleaning up this plenum and upper intake? Or is there really a way to go about this? Just wipe it down and clean it up a bit and it'll be ready to be put back on?
The dizzy for the 93 has the ignition module on the fender and my 89 has the ignition module on the side of the distributor. I am using the 93 wiring harness, so should i also use the 93 dizzy and module?
Now my question. How should I go about cleaning up this plenum and upper intake? Or is there really a way to go about this? Just wipe it down and clean it up a bit and it'll be ready to be put back on?
The dizzy for the 93 has the ignition module on the fender and my 89 has the ignition module on the side of the distributor. I am using the 93 wiring harness, so should i also use the 93 dizzy and module?
#2
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
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You should use the '89 wiring harness I don't think the '93 will simply plug in on your truck. You have 2 choices with the distributor..
1)Use the '93 version as is and splice the TFI wiring from the '93 harness into your '89 harness.
2) Modify the '93 distributor to accept the TFI module and keep your existing wiring all stock. This is what I did BTW. Start by completely disassembling the distributor, and then machine an opening in the side of the body for the TFI connector to the pickup that goes inside. I used a dremmel for this. Then slide the pickup over the shaft and slide that into the body and plug the TFI module into the pickup to mark locations for the mounting holes. Remove all the parts again then drill and tap the body for the TFI bolts. Now assembly it like a normal distributor.
For the intake scrape out as much gunk as you can and then fill the ports with carb cleaner or something else that disolves carbon and grease well and let it sit for a day or so.
1)Use the '93 version as is and splice the TFI wiring from the '93 harness into your '89 harness.
2) Modify the '93 distributor to accept the TFI module and keep your existing wiring all stock. This is what I did BTW. Start by completely disassembling the distributor, and then machine an opening in the side of the body for the TFI connector to the pickup that goes inside. I used a dremmel for this. Then slide the pickup over the shaft and slide that into the body and plug the TFI module into the pickup to mark locations for the mounting holes. Remove all the parts again then drill and tap the body for the TFI bolts. Now assembly it like a normal distributor.
For the intake scrape out as much gunk as you can and then fill the ports with carb cleaner or something else that disolves carbon and grease well and let it sit for a day or so.
#3
If i use the 89 wiring harness and the 89 distributor, no splicing and confusing stuff will be required? lol. And i need a front sump oil pan... the pan from a 93 works because it is double sumped. But there is no hole for the dipstick in the block, so i need one in the pan. soooo, the 93 wont work because its for a motor that has a place for a dipstick in the block.
#5
The beginning of motor's casting number is D4... so this motor is a 74 block. But Im taking the accessories off of the 94 351w to get this motor to where i can just drop this built 351w into my truck without it being down for to long. So i was thinking of using the 89 wiring harness to keep it with the 89's computer and keep everything the same electronically...
#6
#7
You cant run a front sump oil pan on these trucks... Im waiting until pay day to pick up me block and heads from the machine shop. Then my weekend will be filled up with building the engine, and bolting it in, replacing my 5.0. I cant wait! Monday is my 21st birthday, so that day probably isnt going to be too productive, but I hope by Wed.I will be done!
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#11
Got the bottom end taken care of. Now with removing the injectors from the intake, half of them broke. I was told they should just slide out. wellll.... needless to say after soaking them for 4 days with PB blaster, they didnt. most of the plastic parts on the injectors either cracked or rolled over on themselves. I went and priced new ones and WOW $563 for 8 from advanced (450.40 with my "connections"). bt nonetheless, i cant afford that right at the moment. is there a way to save these things, or am i pretty much screwed and going to the junkyard for ones i have no info about?
#12
You can get injector rebuild kits on ebay for pretty cheap. They come with o-rings and pintle caps. Unless the injector itself is damaged you should just need the rebuild kit. If the injectors have a lot of miles on them, you might want to consider having them sonically cleaned. There is also a really good article on fordfuelinjection.com on cleaning injectors.
Kind of surprising that the injectors didn't come out easily. They're just held in there by the o-ring. They should just slide right out of the hole.
Kind of surprising that the injectors didn't come out easily. They're just held in there by the o-ring. They should just slide right out of the hole.
#13
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BBK-1706/
Is this going to be the ADJ FPR i need to dial in WOT?
Plus, I havent found a wideband O2 for my application yet... anyone have any hints id appreciate it.
Is this going to be the ADJ FPR i need to dial in WOT?
Plus, I havent found a wideband O2 for my application yet... anyone have any hints id appreciate it.
#14
You can get injector rebuild kits on ebay for pretty cheap. They come with o-rings and pintle caps. Unless the injector itself is damaged you should just need the rebuild kit. If the injectors have a lot of miles on them, you might want to consider having them sonically cleaned. There is also a really good article on fordfuelinjection.com on cleaning injectors.
Kind of surprising that the injectors didn't come out easily. They're just held in there by the o-ring. They should just slide right out of the hole.
Kind of surprising that the injectors didn't come out easily. They're just held in there by the o-ring. They should just slide right out of the hole.
#15
I took my upper & lower intakes to the machine shop and had them tanked. It cost about $60, but it was well worth it, they came out brand-new looking and I didn't have to go through 10 rolls of shop towels, four cans of carb cleaner, and three hours of my own time to get them half as clean.