360 1969 f350
#1
360 1969 f350
I am rebuilding this great old Ford truck.
I took the heads off of the engine to make it a little easer to pull. I was expecting to find the cylinders very worn out and possibly a bore job in the past, but to my surprise the piston tops were clean and no rig on the cylinder wall.
If the cylinders had been bored out would there be a stamp on top of the piston identifying the over bore?
Thank for your help.
Ben<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
I took the heads off of the engine to make it a little easer to pull. I was expecting to find the cylinders very worn out and possibly a bore job in the past, but to my surprise the piston tops were clean and no rig on the cylinder wall.
If the cylinders had been bored out would there be a stamp on top of the piston identifying the over bore?
Thank for your help.
Ben<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
#2
Generally, the oversize is stamped in the top of the piston. Not always, though, especially on HiPo forged pistons.
It will PROBABLY be .030 or .060.
A long time ago, I saw a couple of engines with .010 and .020, but that's rare.
If you're in doubt, you may be able to get a fairly close measurement with a dial caliper or digital caliper. Just use the inside diameter "jaws" to check it.
It will PROBABLY be .030 or .060.
A long time ago, I saw a couple of engines with .010 and .020, but that's rare.
If you're in doubt, you may be able to get a fairly close measurement with a dial caliper or digital caliper. Just use the inside diameter "jaws" to check it.
#3
70 Ranger XLT
Thanks for the idea I will do that.
The upper part of the engine was in really bad shape so I was surprised to find the cylinder wall in such good condition.
There is a bad knock in the lower part but I will see what that is when I get the engine out.
Thanks again for the help.
Ben<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
The upper part of the engine was in really bad shape so I was surprised to find the cylinder wall in such good condition.
There is a bad knock in the lower part but I will see what that is when I get the engine out.
Thanks again for the help.
Ben<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
#5
If it's the same as the F100's reach your hand under the dash and feel the top of the switch you should feel a small round button (and I mean small) press it down and pull the head light rod out (the one you turn your lights on with) then all you need to do is undo the retaining ring on the front of the dash and this will free the switch, once down just unplug the wiring.
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