help me get my 1970 f-100 360 started!!
#1
help me get my 1970 f-100 360 started!!
I have a 1970 f-100 that just stays on the farm. I drive it 200 miles each year! the other day when I turned the key on ....nothing...no sound...nothing.
Battery is new, good cables, changed the solenoid, changed the starter and still nothing.
I put voltage tester to hot side terminal of solenoid and it lights up but if i go to the other terminal (the one that leads to starter) it will not light.
What's next? Voltage regulator? Cable to starter? coil?
Help!!!!!
your fellow farmer in Idaho
Battery is new, good cables, changed the solenoid, changed the starter and still nothing.
I put voltage tester to hot side terminal of solenoid and it lights up but if i go to the other terminal (the one that leads to starter) it will not light.
What's next? Voltage regulator? Cable to starter? coil?
Help!!!!!
your fellow farmer in Idaho
#2
you probably should just sell it to me... too bad it don't run, aint worth much....
have you messed around with harness conections at all?
like behind the ignition switch? have you tried the ole toothless jake remote starter method under the hood? (jumper the solenoid posts with a screwdriver)?
I don't recomend it by the way... would never pull such a stunt myself... much....
have you messed around with harness conections at all?
like behind the ignition switch? have you tried the ole toothless jake remote starter method under the hood? (jumper the solenoid posts with a screwdriver)?
I don't recomend it by the way... would never pull such a stunt myself... much....
#3
first, have you tried jumping the solenoid, if so and nothing, take a jumper cable, grab the (+) of the starter, to the starter side of the solenoid, then try with the key, if nothing, then its either a bad solenoid, or a bad connection from the Key to the solenoid, try jumping the starter directly to the Battery (+), if it cranks now. then its the norrrowed down to Key side harness or key sw.
#4
first, have you tried jumping the solenoid, if so and nothing, take a jumper cable, grab the (+) of the starter, to the starter side of the solenoid, then try with the key, if nothing, then its either a bad solenoid, or a bad connection from the Key to the solenoid, try jumping the starter directly to the Battery (+), if it cranks now. then its the norrrowed down to Key side harness or key sw.
#6
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#8
Do your lights, wipers, etc. work?
The fusible link supplies power to those necessities and other accessories. It's basically a "master fuse" for the electrical system.
You should have a large wire coming off the battery side of the solenoid (no, not the cable..LOL). It should be about 12 ga (give or take). The fusible link is a part of that wire. If you develop a short that the fuses do not protect against, the fusible link will melt. It's nothing but a special section of softer wire that is a part of the large wire I referenced. It's located near the end of this wire. If it's burned, the insulation may or may not be burned off, but you can tell by feeling the outside of the insulation that there is no wire in there.
To replace a fusible link, either solder in a new piece of fusible link wire, or you can install a circuit breaker or master fuse near the solenoid and eliminate the fusible link.
The fusible link supplies power to those necessities and other accessories. It's basically a "master fuse" for the electrical system.
You should have a large wire coming off the battery side of the solenoid (no, not the cable..LOL). It should be about 12 ga (give or take). The fusible link is a part of that wire. If you develop a short that the fuses do not protect against, the fusible link will melt. It's nothing but a special section of softer wire that is a part of the large wire I referenced. It's located near the end of this wire. If it's burned, the insulation may or may not be burned off, but you can tell by feeling the outside of the insulation that there is no wire in there.
To replace a fusible link, either solder in a new piece of fusible link wire, or you can install a circuit breaker or master fuse near the solenoid and eliminate the fusible link.
#9
Thanks again for the great tips......the horn, wipers, and lights work fine. I just connected the battery lug (on the solenoid) to the small "S" terminal on the solenoid and the starter did work! I just replaced the starter and solenoid, they all work. I also cleaned battery cables and ground and terminal on starter. So.......now I'm thinking the ignition switch. When I turn the key to accessory....the wipers work but when I turn to start....nothing. However, before the start position when the key is "on"...I can hear a faint tick noise but cant tell where it is because I'm in the cab.
My next thought is to bypass the ignition switch and buy a "push button" starter switch and wire to the "S" terminal on the solenoid. Will this work? I dont need a key switch as this rig just sits on the farm........am I on the right path?????? What type of switch should I get that is easy to install????
Thanks guys...you are really helping!!!!!
My next thought is to bypass the ignition switch and buy a "push button" starter switch and wire to the "S" terminal on the solenoid. Will this work? I dont need a key switch as this rig just sits on the farm........am I on the right path?????? What type of switch should I get that is easy to install????
Thanks guys...you are really helping!!!!!
#10
#12
Before you replace the switch, it would be best to test your old one to verify that the switch is the problem. Have someone turn the key while you use your voltage tester to check for power at the small terminal on the solenoid. It should have voltage when the switch is turned to start, and none when the key is in the "run" position.
To replace the switch:
1) Turn the ignition switch to the "Acc" position.
2) Insert a straightened paper clip in the small hole on the face of the switch and push it in to depress the plunger that is located inside.
3) While holding the paper clip in, turn the switch further to the left and the lock cylinder can easily be pulled out.
4) Then, remove the large round nut that holds the switch in place.
5) Pull the switch from the dash and disconnect the wiring plug.
6) To install the new one, connect the plug, install the switch, insert the lock cylinder and turn it to the right. It will lock itself back in place.
If it's not the switch, you most likely have a wiring problem. Got any mice on your farm???
To replace the switch:
1) Turn the ignition switch to the "Acc" position.
2) Insert a straightened paper clip in the small hole on the face of the switch and push it in to depress the plunger that is located inside.
3) While holding the paper clip in, turn the switch further to the left and the lock cylinder can easily be pulled out.
4) Then, remove the large round nut that holds the switch in place.
5) Pull the switch from the dash and disconnect the wiring plug.
6) To install the new one, connect the plug, install the switch, insert the lock cylinder and turn it to the right. It will lock itself back in place.
If it's not the switch, you most likely have a wiring problem. Got any mice on your farm???
#13
Another thing, there should be a ground wire from the solenoid to the ground cable. If not, make one so you have adequate ground.
#15