1995 F250 Tank Switch/Selector Valve - Page 2 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

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1995 F250 Tank Switch/Selector Valve

  #16  
Old 07-18-2013, 02:38 PM
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No, no photo, but it appears to match this one: Chevy Dodge Ford GMC 6 Port Fuel Gas Tank Selector Valve | eBay (I can get a photo if you still need to see one.)

After I re-installed the midship tank, I drove to the gas station and put 5 gallons of diesel in it. Since it is a 19 gallon tank, it should read approximately 1/4 full. After adding the fuel, I returned home on the working rear tank and parked in the driveway, engine running. Fuel gauge showed the rear tank to be more than 3/4 full.

At this point I hit the dash switch to change to the midship tank. The fuel gauge immediately dropped to 'Empty'. I expected the engine to falter, as I assumed that removing and re-installing the tank would introduce some air into the fuel system. The engine remained running without missing a beat.

At this point I crawled under the truck and disconnected the lead attached to the fuel sending unit on the midship tank. The fuel gauge now read above full. Reconnecting the wires caused the gauge to go back to reading empty. This verifies that with the dash switch set to the midship tank, the fuel gauge is reading from that tank (and the sending unit is evidently bad).

Suspecting at this point that fuel was still being drawn from the rear tank, I drove the truck with the dash switch set to the other tank, then changed it back to the rear tank after returning home. The rear tank reading was now lower, confirming in my mind that the truck had continued to run off the rear tank.
 
  #17  
Old 07-18-2013, 03:13 PM
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That photo is for an older stile solenoid valve. If that was put on there is no way the fuel gauge should work.
Some has done a lot of rewiring and installed wrong parts.
That being said I see no way we can help you as we have no idea what has been redone on your truck.
We can only help with stock fuel system as that is all we have diagrams for to look at.
You may also have the wrong or miss wired selector switch on the dash.

Below is how the 1993 stock system was wired:


/
 
  #18  
Old 07-21-2013, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by subford View Post
No that will not work for you, you do not have a motorized fuel valve.

You more than likely have a sunk float and the float will have to be replaced.
Your fuel wiring:


/
That image was a HUGE help. Thanks
 
  #19  
Old 07-24-2013, 07:52 PM
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Fuel system is stock. Fuel tank selector valve is a Pollak, stamped with the Ford oval and number E9TB-9F271-AA.

Swapped out the valve with one from a salvage yard, E7TB-9F271-AA off a diesel F350. After the change, cranked the truck expecting to encounter air in the fuel lines. It will fire intermittently, but won't start. Have charged the batteries once and tried again - same result. Batteries are on charger again now.

With the replacement part in, fuel gauge reads above full on both tanks (open circuit on sending unit) so I am suspecting that the salvage part is bad.
 
  #20  
Old 07-25-2013, 03:06 PM
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Reinstalled the original part, so at least I'm back running although only the rear tank is available and it stops picking up fuel with 1/4 tank left. (I'm waiting to drop and repair the lift tube until I get the midship tank back in service. Lift tube has been replaced in it.)

I see that FTE Parts Guy has closed his website. Sorry to hear he had a stroke - hope he's recovering and enjoying retirement. Contacted a vendor specializing in obsolete Ford parts (Miller) and they quoted me an insane $196 for the selector valve. Gonna try another one (Green Sales Co) but I have little hope that they will have a reasonable price. Looks like I may have to buy an aftermarket replacement. Every one I've located so far has a different style of electrical connector, though, and I really didn't want to have to rewire.
 
  #21  
Old 03-03-2014, 05:33 PM
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Where is a good place to get a selector valve? I have done some testing and i have power to the valve but it doesnt work!
 
  #22  
Old 03-05-2014, 04:58 PM
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I bought mine from Green Sales Company (Green Sales Company - Obsolete Ford parts, Lincoln, Mercury parts Green Sales Company, supplier of obsolete Ford parts and Lincoln / Mercury parts. Our Ford parts inventory represents all Ford and Lincoln / Mercury products from 1950 to the present.). I had a local mechanic put it in since I was starting a new job and was short on time. Works great, but then it had better for the price I paid.
 
  #23  
Old 09-07-2014, 06:54 PM
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I see Rock Auto has control valves, switches and relays listed for all these parts.More Information for ACDELCO U7000 is the most expensive valve-beats heck out of $195 aye?
 
  #24  
Old 09-07-2014, 07:21 PM
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OK, I've gone over this top to bottom and see some close but no cigar so far. My friend has a 1993 F250 7.5l V8/auto 4X4, fully loaded. He lives 15 miles from the nearest wi-fi so trying to use the forum has been frustrating. He had a shade-tree mechanic replace the rear in-tank fuel pump-truck was running off of front tank fine when he started. After replacing fuel pump it wouldn't run until he patched a hot wire into the back of the fuel tank selector switch. Now the fuel pumps both deliver 42PSI to fuel rail but engine will not start. Squirt a little gas into throttle body and it fires right up so there appears to be spark and just no EFI signals. I am unable to get my Snap On scanner to communicate with his truck at the diagnostic connector so I'm sort of guessing but could the inertia fuel pump switch be faulty? Did the former "mechanic" pull a FUBAR move hooking the hot wire to the selector switch? Could he have fried the PCM doing this? The links you have posted for wiring diagrams don't seem to work with Safari-can you give them in plain text so I can try that? Thanks in advance, I have to say this is one of the most helpful forums I've run across, the BSA/Triumph guys tend to be a bit snooty. I'm a retired mechanic since 1990 so my computer skills aren't up to snuff-more than once I've wished for a simple ignition system conversion with a simple EFI that would just let a smart phone manage the RPM/Fuel\Air mix/ignition timing. My favorite car was my Citroen that let me adjust timing advance and fuel/air mix on the fly, as well as my suspension height! I got 46MPG doing 85MPH and it was one of the safest cars ever made. Oh well, maybe by my 75TH birthday I'll get the computer crap figured out.
 
  #25  
Old 09-08-2014, 06:57 AM
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bobajabob,

Yes it sounds like somehow the PCM Computer got fried.
You can try grounding pin #6 of the self-test plug under the hood by shorting it to pin #2 of the self-test plug with your jumper removed and the key turned to run. If the fuel pumps run then but do not run for one second when the key is turned to run with the jumper from pin #6 to pin #2 removed from the self-test plug under the hood then it is almost assured the PCM Computer is bad.


If the fuel pumps do not run with the above test then ground pin #6 to the NEG post of the battery and turn on the key. If they run then the PCM Computer has lost its ground to the NEG post of the battery.


If the pump does not run then dose the fuel pump relay click each time pin #6 is ground with the key on?
If not does the PCM Power relay click each time the key is turned to run?

The wiring diagram above from post #6 of the 1995 F-series truck should be the close enough for your 1993.

The self-test plug:

/
 
  #26  
Old 09-09-2014, 04:08 PM
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Originally Posted by bobajabob View Post
I see Rock Auto has control valves, switches and relays listed for all these parts.More Information for ACDELCO U7000 is the most expensive valve-beats heck out of $195 aye?
It would, but that valve isn't gonna work if your truck has fuel RETURN lines like my 7.3 diesel. Those valves are cheaper because they only have the supply side hardware on the inside. (The outside valve body is the same. You know the supply-only valves from the 3 plugs you can see on the return side inlets.)
 
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