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92 F150 5.0 Auto... Be gentle, it's my first time...

 
  #1  
Old 08-24-2009, 10:14 PM
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cmcolfax
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92 F150 5.0 Auto... Be gentle, it's my first time...

...wrenching on a Ford.

If any of you saw my "Intro" post, you know I am basically a "Jeep Guy"; who bought himself a Ford pickup.

But I couldn't get something EASY to wrench on... like, say, a carb'ed 300 straight six with an NP435 manual tranny.

NO, I had to go get an early EFI 5.0 with a dang computer controlled Automatic too (E4OD if my research is correct).

Anyway, I have been :bumping: a number of threads that may be useful as FINALLY start to dive in to this thing this week.

It got new sneakers a coupla weeks ago since the ones it came with barely held air.

31 x 10.50 BFG-AT look-a-likes from TreadWright.

The inside of the cab is currently piled up with parts.

TO DO LIST:

Plugs/Wires/Cap/Rotor
Air filter
5 QTS Valvoline High Mileage 10w30
1 QT Marvel Mystery Oil
Purolator PureONE oil filter
Front brake pads
Rear brake shoes
Rear wheel cylinders & hardware kits

Wednesday's game plan is to D/C the battery to clear codes, do the "tune up" and oil change, clean the TB and IAC then re-connect everything and pull the codes per the FFI website and go from there.

Known issues:

Strong smell of coolant after engine has been running and up to full operating temp. No obvious leaks.

CEL comes on after running/driving for 10-15 minutes. Hopefully clearing the old codes and "tune up" will solve this.

Trans feels like it drops in to OD as soon as I let off the throttle. Have to "floor it" / go hard WOT to get it to kick back down. Thinking possible MLPS issue, but have not checked codes.

PO stated he replaced a part in the selector linkage w/ a JY part. Trans shifts fine thru all ranges, but indicator needle does not move. PO stated he neglected to hook the cable that moves it back up.

If I can get thru all of that on Wednesday, and not find numerous other codes to chase down I will be happy.

Of course the hardest part will probably be getting my wife to come out and pump the pedal to bleed the brakes...

Is there anything else you guys can think of that should be cleaned/checked while I am under th hood of this thing?

It DOES run and drive fine, I am just catching up on some overdue PM.

Thanks.

-cmc-
 
  #2  
Old 08-24-2009, 10:48 PM
bren_tx
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What are the codes that you are getting??

i would check the TV cable adjustment, that might help with the shift points.

I would also change the fuel filter and suck some seafoam in the intake. might as well do the spark plugs if you are going to get all of the wires off.

Also when you change the oil, look for any signs of coolant in the oil, kinda looks like chocolate milk almost. and look in the radiator as well for any brown spots in the water.
 
  #3  
Old 08-24-2009, 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by bren_tx View Post
What are the codes that you are getting??

i would check the TV cable adjustment, that might help with the shift points.

I would also change the fuel filter and suck some seafoam in the intake. might as well do the spark plugs if you are going to get all of the wires off.

Also when you change the oil, look for any signs of coolant in the oil, kinda looks like chocolate milk almost. and look in the radiator as well for any brown spots in the water.
Have not pulled codes yet. Want to clear them, then do "tune up" and pull current codes.

NEW Plugs/Wires/Cap/Rotor all on the menu for Wednesday.

As is a can of Seafoam... forgot to post that.

May even get crazy and drain/flush radiator.

And I know to check all the usual stuff, like coolant in the oil, and oil in the coolant.

Truck runs and drives fine, just catching up on overdue PM.

-cmc-
 
  #4  
Old 08-26-2009, 08:25 PM
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Well... I finally got to wrenchin' on the truck this afternoon.

Plugs and wires done (Motorcraft Copper Cores & Summit 8mm Silicon Street & Strips).

Cap & rotor done (Blue Motorcraft from Summit).

Oil & filter done (5QT Valvoline High Mileage 10w30, 1QT MMO & Motorcraft filter).

Air filter done (STP branded from AZ).

Forgot to pick up a breather and PCV valve. Will get those on Friday.


Thoughts so far:

Wires I pulled off were gray Motorcraft/Ford and clearly labelled "1992". Plugs were Motorcraft.
Plugs were VERY worn. (Biggest wire on my gapper is .055 and it did not even come close to touching either electrode.)
Plugs were fairly rusty and burned, but no obvious carbon or wet fouling.
Cap & rotor were gray Motorcraft/Ford. Contacts on the cap had a groove worn in them, but no signs of burning or arcing.

Does that sound like these were the ORIGINAL plugs/wires/cap/rotor?

Air filter was SOAKED with oil. Concentrated most heavily at the back left corner where the breather tube from the oil filler neck enters the airbox. I cleaned the port and the airbox completely and will keep an eye on it. Hopefully it is just more neglected PM.

As for the oil; I was happy to see dang close to six quarts come out. Black, but about the right consistency. No smell or feel of gasoline. No mocha-latte either.

Did not pull the TB or the IAC. Just shot all the moving parts and the throats with some CRC Carb-n-Choke cleaner. I'll dig in to that deeper later if I get any sort of IAC/TPS code.

Did notice what appears the be the beginning of a crack near the #4 plug on the PS exhaust manifold. I guess that will give me an excuse to swap a set of headers, a new single-cat Y-pipe and a Flowmaster on it this winter...

One BIG concern:

Spark plug wire routing.

How critical is it on these motors?

To be honest, I did not pay close attention to how they were routed as I pulled them.
So I just ran them an neatly as I could, and used wire seperators to keep them that way.

Gonna clear the codes, and take it for a drive on Friday. Then pull them to see what the computer says...

Any thoughts or ideas are appreciated, and I'll keep you guys posted...

THANKS!

-cmc-
 
  #5  
Old 08-26-2009, 08:45 PM
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Air filter was SOAKED with oil. Concentrated most heavily at the back left corner where the breather tube from the oil filler neck enters the airbox. I cleaned the port and the airbox completely and will keep an eye on it. Hopefully it is just more neglected PM.

I'd put a vacuum gauge on it and see what the needle does, the oil soaked breather would concern me.

Side note, aa you may be aware of by now a E4OD has no TV cable to check/adjust.

Other then that it sure sounds like you got a good grasp on it, keep it up and let us know what if anything you find after checking it for trouble codes.
 
  #6  
Old 08-26-2009, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by danr1 View Post
Air filter was SOAKED with oil. Concentrated most heavily at the back left corner where the breather tube from the oil filler neck enters the airbox. I cleaned the port and the airbox completely and will keep an eye on it. Hopefully it is just more neglected PM.

I'd put a vacuum gauge on it and see what the needle does, the oil soaked breather would concern me.

Side note, aa you may be aware of by now a E4OD has no TV cable to check/adjust.

Other then that it sure sounds like you got a good grasp on it, keep it up and let us know what if anything you find after checking it for trouble codes.
Thanks.

Yeah, the oil soaked air cleaner bothered me.

Once I get it back running on Friday I'll stick a vac gauge on the breather line. (Hopefully I have an adapter to fit that big of a tube.)

What should I look for?

As for the trans/TV cable. No, I did not know that. But I had not gotten to that "problem/project" yet.

I've been wrenching on Jeeps for a number of years, just new to all the quirks of these EFI Fords.

I meant to run a can of Seafoam thru it BEFORE I changed the plugs, but got distracted and forgot.

I may try to do that Friday too.

What you think, do it BEFORE or AFTER I pull the codes?

Dang... just found the spark plug wiring diagrams.

-cmc-
 
  #7  
Old 08-26-2009, 09:12 PM
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Connect a vacuum gauge directly to a port on the intake, the needle should hold steady not bounce up and down rapidly. Needle bouncing up and down rapidly is a sure sign of blow by, little bounce is minor say 1 inch and is not a problem, but jumping 6 or even more inches up and down is bad and will cause problems getting it to run nice.

Good strong motor should hold steady needle at 20 to 22" inches HG.

I believe on the 302 the wires needed extra care in routing are #7 and #8, do not let them touch or cross each other in anyway.

What you think, do it BEFORE or AFTER I pull the codes?

Won't make any difference, seafoam it when you're done running it. That is what I did, slowly poured in about half a can via the brake boot hose as it idled when I got home from work. Shut it off, poured the rest in the gas tank, and let it sit a while then started it back up and run till the smoke cleared hour or so latter.
 
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Old 08-26-2009, 10:20 PM
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if you have a choice i would put the seafoam in before you clear the codes. sometimes when you are burning off the carbon and junk it can mess up the o2 sensor briefly, throwing a code.....has never happened to me but its been mentioned
 
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Old 08-27-2009, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by bren_tx View Post
if you have a choice i would put the seafoam in before you clear the codes. sometimes when you are burning off the carbon and junk it can mess up the o2 sensor briefly, throwing a code.....has never happened to me but its been mentioned
Sounds like a plan...

Gotta address the plug wire routing first, then re-connect the battery and fire it up.

Battery has been DC'ed since Wednesday afternoon, and it will be Friday afternoon before I get back to it.

Figure I'll run it around a little bit then bring it home, pull the codes, then Seafoam it.

While it's sitting, I can research what ever codes I get and be ready to go back out to the garage and try to fix them.

Thanks again.

-cmc-
 
  #10  
Old 08-28-2009, 08:08 PM
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Well... today did not exactly work out as planned.

Finally got to the truck around 1500hrs. Had to deal with a stressed out wife and an 11-month old with a cold most of the day.

Popped the hood and it started to rain.

Did manage to re-route the plug wires using Steve83's diagram and fire it up.

Started easily and ran smoothly... after the initial "hunt-n-stumble" for idle.

(I never did get to pull the TB and clean the IAC.)

Stared at the remaining pile o'parts for a while.

(Brake pads, shoes, wheel cyl's, hardware kits, shocks...)

Surfed the interweb for a while trying to find a cross reference for Moog and Raybestos suspension part numbers so I can order new front coils.

Hopefully Sunday will go better.

PLanning on replacing the PCV, cleaning the TB/IAC, then taking it for a 10-15 mile drive.

I'll pull the codes when I get back and then Seafoam it.

If I am lucky.

-cmc-
 
 
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