He is supposedly getting just over 300 hp. And it cost him $5k. Use a 300 with a mild build, and turbo it. If you go more than 250, imho, it is just too radical to be street mannered. The numbers you're asking for are just not realistic, unless your wallet is very deep, and the time you expect to use it on the street is minimal.

You can search youtube for Frankensix. That build was done by a pro race shop, and it is 312 hp, and just plain rude for the street.

Just do a clean turbo build and get the numbers you want, plus reliability. Or a supercharger like this one:

<a href="http://s659.photobucket.com/albums/uu316/bobbyrogue/?action=view&current=hackmanplsmakeitforme-1.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i659.photobucket.com/albums/uu316/bobbyrogue/hackmanplsmakeitforme-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

 

F-250 restorer, I hope you didn't polish the intake runners. It's nice to have them rough because it help atomize the fuel better. Polishing only helps in high rpm motors, I thought.

I have a I6 in my daily driver but I'm building up a D0VE-A block and D0VE-C heads for my 500hp 460 going in my 74 ranchero.

 

No, I didn't polish the intakes. I did about 6 months of research before doing the build, and that helped with all the little tips and how-tos.

 

real nice motors posted up in here just spent a almost 2 hrs saving the pictures lol ..
With everything getting so over complicated these days and burdened with red tape(read IM) crap that does nothing for easy maintance or fuel economy .. i love how simple the ford 300 is ..it gives me peace just looking at it knowing things dont have to be over engineered and keep driving right past the new 50k truck stuck on the side of the road cause thier computer got wet and had a hissy fit .
i work on motor cycle engines for a living .. when all the young kids go home i long for a simple air cooled twin and raw touque with a nice exhaust note with almost 55mpg !

some folks live for new tech and big numbers while the older i get i like simplier times and a little peace ..

why does a 30 yr old truck thats heavier and slower still get better mileage than a lighter more hp truck? how does this help the enviroment if it took twice the power to move a lighter truck ? it cost 400% more to buy ..
it cost 50k for a new truck , while a fully loaded 77f250 was 9k ?

i like simple and cheap ..

 

Wayne, if that's your viewpoint, you'll feel right at home around here!

 

You bet!

 

thanks ,

i love to lurk and read up on your builds very talented people in here .. even my race truck only uses 3 12volt wires to run and one vacume line .. i like simple lol

 

Less unsprung weight too

 

who says the 300 can't be made to go fast? Gears help boys. Got an 1988 Ford F150 with a opened up six and a 4 speed manual. Takes two and a half miles to wind er' up bu she can consistently run 100-110 MPH at 3500 RPM (thats all the faster a lifted 4wd truck needs to move on 33's)

 

Welcome Caleb!
Don't have 2 mi round here (hills/curves) to get er up. Where U @?
Hey, keep postin - think you'll like our sand box. U may have sompin ta bring!

 

After some performance mods my 300 is running like a small block V8 but that damn T18 granny 4 speed is holding me back, it's just to slow when shifting, I'm thinking about the T5 mustang 5 speed swap.

 

took me a while to read all 10 pages, i have half forgoten everything i wanted to say now

we have two 4.9l one carb one fuel injected this particular motor ford ran from 65 to 96 so the newest motor you could find is 14 years old i am lucky i have one

we also have a 302 and a 351 both small block crates both in 1 ton pickups
the way i see it a 300 is for work the 302 is for driving and the 351 is for play
the fastest rig we have is the 302 with a 2.75 rear idles at 70 it also gets the best fuel economy at 25mpg out of tune i think that is the way he should go if he want a driver that occasionally works a 302 crate motor can be ordered with more ponies stock then you could hope to get out of a 6I even geared hi a 5 speed automatic drop it in low it will pull whatever you wish

300 are nice though if you are clever you can do almost anything with them plus they are cheep( they are 14 years old though) my thought about the piston head if you want it to run smoother have them machine shaved a couple times(not that it needs any longer of a stroke)

when i first got my f150 which has now turned to parts for the 85 (chasy bent behind motor) it was only runnin 2 cylenders i just swiched off the overdrive and it still went 65 down the highway

as for the 5 speed transmision i havent heard good things about the conversion (i think you have the better setup right now)

 

hey guys I need a little advice or maybe some opinions. My 300 is getting an Offenhouser 4 BBL. intake and an Edelbrock carb. BUT need some advice on carb. size Edelbrock suggest's a 600CFM for a 300 cubic inch range engine.....and advice or tips or ideas for a carb, I'd like to stick to my trusty brand Edelbrock

 

Edelbrock #1403 is the carb you need, it is 500cfm and Edelbrock states it is made for 216 to 327 cubic inch engines which means it fits the Ford 300 6 cyl perfectly, the #1403 is the electric choke model, #1404 is the manual choke model. Best price is ebay though I bought it for only $10 more and had it right then from Shucks/O'Reilly auto parts store.

 

That brings up a question I had about the Edelbrocks:

The 1403 is a 500 cfm that is "performance" oriented.
The 1406 is a 600 cfm that is "economy" oriented.

Would the 1406 achieve better mileage on the 300 than the 1403 due to it being oriented towards economy, even though it's a larger cfm? I don't know much about Edelbrocks, but I am curious.