I just installed brand new modded B-codes in the rear, and all of the problems I recently resolved have pretty much returned.

For background, I had all of the usual Ex problems: wander, sloppy steering, etc.

To start down the path of resolving these issues I did the following: W-code front springs, Red Head steering box, DynaTrac balljoints, 4 new Bilstein shocks, and the larger F250 rear sway bar with Energy bushings. Also, the rear springs were brand new stock Excursion springs.

All of the above made an amazing difference in how the truck handled. I was very pleased, and if I hadn't bought the B-codes at the same time as the W-codes, I probably would have left it as-is becasue the ride and handling were so nice.

Just recently when I had the time, I performed the B-code mod using an older set of stock rear springs for the donor leafs, and installed them, keeping the 3.5 inch lift block that was already on the truck. I was hoping this would give me even more handling and ride improvements.

The modded B-codes gave me 2.5 inches of additional rear lift. I now have a pretty good amount of positive rake, with the rear being higher than the front, with the 3.5 inch lift blocks.

The problem now is that the ride and handling are pretty bad again. The steering again feels sloppy, the truck wants to wander a bit and get pushed around by the airflow of large trucks that are passing by, the rear wants to bounce when I go over bumps, etc. The Ex also now feels somewhat top-heavy and wants to kind of roll or rock from side to side.

Now, I have yet to change the stock-sized Bilsteins to larger Bilsteins for the aditional lift. But there is plenty of room left for the shocks to move up and down. I am not near the upper stop limit for the shocks.

I am wondering if using a 1.5 to 2 inch smaller lift block in the rear would help any? This would reduce some of the positive rake and bring me near level again. This would be much easier than changing back to the stock springs, but I just don't know if it would help? I was hoping you guys could provide some guidance in this area.

I am going to need a fresh tie rod and drag link set-up soon, as they are tired. However, I still had a good ride and handling with a tired front end and the stock rear springs. The track bar is also stock and I am eventually going to go with an adjustable set-up.

So I guess the bottom line is, do you guys think that by changing to a smaller lift block and perhaps going with bigger rear Bilsteins, I will be able to affect the ride quality that much? Or should I just go back to the stock rear springs and sell the B-codes?

This is getting expensive and time consuming, and I'm trying to avoid having to change shocks, track bar, lift block, tie rods, drag link, etc. all at one time, just to make the B-codes work.

I appreciate your experience and input.

Regards.

 

Change the blocks for now.

 

This may or may not help but I'll throw in my experience. When I got the Excursion it was bone stock, 112,500 miles. I think the shocks were done at some point in it's life. The ride was great but the handling was poor, lots of body roll into turns, for example the front right corner would dip on a hard left turn.

I got an 8" BDS lift kit with replaced all the springs and shocks, also got the helwig rear sway bar and had some long end links fabricated for that. I kept the stock rear block. The result is that the handling is great, but the ride quality is poor. It is stiff as hell, you feel everything, you get bounced around a lot. There is also a bit of front to back to front bounce if you hit bumps at the wrong speed. Meaning the back will lift up and the front will compress, then the front will spring up and sink the back again. It is not something that affects the handling, but it feels like you are on a bucking bronco.

My point is, handling and ride quality are inverse in my experience. I would rather have the handling, I don't give a crap about the ride, it is a truck and it feels like riding in one.

 

I appreciate the input, but would have to completely disagree. Handling and ride quality do not have to be inverse (for the most part) in a passenger vehicle. That's the same attitude that almost sank Detroit. And I certainly wouldn't call a "bucking bronco" a stable platform that does not effect handling.

We're not talking a strictly utility truck like an F550, or a race car in street clothes like a McClaren F1. Rather, a passenger vehicle designed for both street use and light to perhaps medium off-road duty.

The fact is, my Ex not only rode better, but had better handling with my previous set-up, as I explained in my first post. It was more stable, and had tighter and more responsive steering with stock springs in back.

My concern is that perhaps I did something to "upset the applecart" by installing a stiffer rear spring and not compensating somewhere else, such as going with a smaller lift block, or a stiffer shock to provide better damping, etc.

I understand that I am trading a little bit of ride "softness" for the stiffer spring, but the truck shouldn't be a mess to drive now, with sloppy steering again, the wander and poor line tracking, etc.

The B-code is supposed to improved these things, not make them worse. So, my thought was that the change had an unintended consequence that wasn't addressed elsewhere??

 

Try changing the block to the OEM 2" block. I was always under the impression that u either use b codes with the 3.5" block, or "mod" b codes with the OEM 2" block. Ur rear high might be causing ur issues.

 

maybe take the block out and see what happens. When you lifted the back with the B's you threw more weight to the front which could be causing your steering issues.

 

I will definitely start by going to a lower block. I don't want to remove it completely, as then I will have a "low rider" suitable for Friday night boulevard cruises

With respect to throwing more weight forward, that makes sense. But with more weight forward, wouldn't you think the steering would feel "heavier", rather than start to feel loose and sloppy?

Thanks, again.

 

No, it upsets the whole dynamics of how it should be.

 

@ CrownVic,
With my very stiff springs and shocks I can snap the wheel hard to the left when doing 80MPH for a quick, like instant, lane change on the interstate. I understand your concept of balance... but I don't see how it would be possible if my springs weren't so stiff. With soft springs the body would roll.

I don't want to argue with you, and I hope you find a good solution. The other thing you might try is to stiffen up the front to match the rear, or get some of those adjustable shocks everyone raves about.

 

Did you have the alignment checked after you did this? Yes I know only the front can be aligned but if you changed the rear end it does change your caster and if this is out of range you are going to get some bad handling. Most shops will only set your Toe but might be worth a trip to find out what the Caster is now so you know if you need to shim or adjust anything. That's going to be more than a standard alignment but a good shop can do it. Caster is for the most part controlled by the difference in height front to rear and if it's too low you are going to have trouble with straight line stability, if it's too high you are going find it hard to steer. My guess is with the rear end up like that you are going to find it on the low end and you these trucks like to be right in the middle or on the high end.

When my rear end was too high (been there done that) it drove like a drunken sailor. Got it back down to about level (little higher in rear) and it sobered right up.

So I'm going to second the prior post get a smaller rear block in there, keep the springs. The stock ones are junk (ask Stewart) and I get lowering that rake will resolve a lot of your issues.

From another forum but best info I've read on aligning these trucks and how ride height affects drive ability.
Alignment specs and recommendations - PowerStrokeNation : Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

 

Excellent. Thank you.

Now I'm having trouble finding someone who makes/sells a 1.5 inch block with the arm that sticks out for the bump stop.

 

Sorry can't help you there but my guess if you aren't going to find that "funky ford only block in a smaller size", maybe Stewart will chime in as he's pretty knowledgeable about the rear B spring swap. I took my rear blocks out completely but I have Pro Comp rear springs and they are even stiffer than the B's - I have a good 6" of clearance between my leaves and the frame so I figure I don't need a bump stop catcher, if I ever bottom out my axles to my frame then I just need to apologize to my truck for doing something I shouldn't have been doing in the first place.

 

Contact

Cary Towery
CTPerformanceinc@yahoo.com

He is an expert with this mod and the excursion suspension, I would recommend calling him personally once you contact him via email. Do this BEFORE you spend anymore money. Odds are he will know immediately what is going to fix your problem. Im serious contact him first!

 

Sammie is right, the rake changes the caster and also puts more weight on the front (a bad combo). Picture a 45 degree truck rake and you will start to visualize it.

 

I have V front, mod B rear with 3.5" blocks, Ranch 9000 all around, Hellwig sway bar in the rear; nothing done to the steering yet. 60 psi on all four tires size 275-70-18 came with the truck when I bought it. My Ex ride improve a lot, and yes it has a very noticable rake. Contemplating raising the front 0.5" to 1" to even out. Don't really want to go down to original Ex rear blocks yet.

Don't understand why you're saying the mod B given you a rougher ride than original. I also adjust my rancho to lower setting on city street, little higher setting on freeway speed, real soft on unpaved roads. I really like the ride now.

Currently front stands at 40" and rear at 43" from the ground to the top of fender wells.